Water Cooling Loop Help

[Idleuser]

Hi guys my setup consist of a innovatek reservoir v1.1, Dtek White Water block, Innovatek Dual Radiator, and a Danger Den 12v Water pump all converted to a 1/2 system.

I know it doesn't really matter which way the loop is configured but right now I'm doing a leak test and is the waterblock suppose to turn cold when I turn on the water cooling loop? I'm afraid because the base of the waterblock feels the same when it's not connected to the watercooling loop.

Right now I have the PUMP to Radiator, Radiator to Waterblock (White Water Middle Barb), WaterBlock with a Y connector using the first and last barb back into the Reservoir, and Reservoir back into the pump.

Is there anything wrong with my setup?

Should I go from the Radiator to Waterblock using the fist and last barb with a Y connector and then the Middle barb of the white water block back into the reservoir.

Thanks in advance

 

[HardWarrior]

It should be cooler than ambient but not cold. You've got your fans running, correct? You loop is fine, don't sweat it.

 

[Idleuser]

hehe I just barely turn on my fan but yeah the radiator and all the other parts started to get warm because of the pump.

 

[HardWarrior]

That's interesting. We have the same pump, which I selected because it doesn't use system coolant to cool itself. Any noise other than a soft "buzz" from your D4?

 

[Idleuser]

nope it sounds like a vacume sucking in water after I turn on the fans with the radiator the waterblock started to return back to ambient temperture.

 

[Idleuser]

how do you get rid of the air bubbles from the watercooling system? will it get rid of itself after awhile?

 

[HardWarrior]

You should be fine then. I have a question for you; what CPU are you mounting that WW on? I'm jumping to a AMD 64 and a refit for my water-cooler for Christmas and I'm considering a WW block.

 

[HardWarrior]

Originally posted by: Idleuser
how do you get rid of the air bubbles from the watercooling system? will it get rid of itself after awhile?

As long as you have your res mounted high the foam will work itself out after a little while.

 

[Idleuser]

i'm mounting the WW on a socket A right now however you can purchase additional hardware to mount the A64

 

[HardWarrior]

What do you think of the WW? Good build quality and finish?

 

[Idleuser]

the finish could be a bit better but the surface is flat enough but there is no complaints since you won't be looking at the base of the waterblock once it's mounted overall I would say 8/10

 

[HardWarrior]

Please, when you get up and running, post a performance review.

 

[gotensan01]

Originally posted by: Idleuser
how do you get rid of the air bubbles from the watercooling system? will it get rid of itself after awhile?

You could also put a piece of sponge in the res. It should float and not restrict the output flow.

HW, good to here you're going amd64. s754 or s939?

 

[HardWarrior]

That's the question I'm wrestling with. It's looking like a DFI LanParty UT 250GB and a 754 3400. The rub is that I can't find a 939 mb that has the features I want and reviews without major caveats.

 

[Zebo]

Originally posted by: HardWarrior
You should be fine then. I have a question for you; what CPU are you mounting that WW on? I'm jumping to a AMD 64 and a refit for my water-cooler for Christmas and I'm considering a WW block.

I use Dtek TC4. Since the C/W values for copper waterblocks are miniscule unlike air products..http://overclockers.com/articles373/wbsum.asp, the TC-4 was $25, already low operating temps of A64's, and it has not the mess of the increased tubbing the WW requires I choose it. Also mounting is a dream. I just flipped the A64 HS retension bracket over and it fit inside like a glove using existing HW and screws.

Anyway I'm using a crappy low pressure pump and run 2650Mhz w a AX rev A64 3000 on Chaintech VNF3-250. Probaly not the featured filled board you're looking for but I can vouch for the AX 3000.

If I were you I'd just make a poly top plate to slide over your WB matching A64's holes? That's a very good WB and does'nt have the tubbing complications or bulk as three pronged blocks like WW.

BTW why on earth you have 10 fans in system?!?! I have two low RPM 120's and PSU fan that's it. Reason I invested in watercooling was primarly silence.

 

[HardWarrior]

Originally posted by: Zebo

Originally posted by: HardWarrior
You should be fine then. I have a question for you; what CPU are you mounting that WW on? I'm jumping to a AMD 64 and a refit for my water-cooler for Christmas and I'm considering a WW block.

I use Dtek TC4. Since the C/W values for copper waterblocks are miniscule unlike air products..http://overclockers.com/articles373/wbsum.asp, the TC-4 was $25, already low operating temps of A64's, and it has not the mess of the increased tubbing the WW requires I choose it. Also mounting is a dream. I just flipped the A64 HS retension bracket over and it fit inside like a glove using existing HW and screws.

Anyway I'm using a crappy low pressure pump and run 2650Mhz w a AX rev A64 3000 on Chaintech VNF3-250. Probaly not the featured filled board you're looking for but I can vouch for the AX 3000.

If I were you I'd just make a poly top plate to slide over your WB matching A64's holes? That's a very good WB and does'nt have the tubbing complications or bulk as three pronged blocks like WW.

BTW why on earth you have 10 fans in system?!?! I have two low RPM 120's and PSU fan that's it. Reason I invested in watercooling was primarly silence.

Thanks for the headsup on the TC4. It looks nice, the price is right and I could go for an easy mounting for a change.

The reason I'm was considering the Lanparty UT is because it has overclocking options out the ass AND a full implementation of the NF 3 250 chipset, including a working AGP lock. Where'd you get the AX 3000 from?

Make? Dude, I'd saw my finger off and STILL have to buy a complete block.

Yeah, I've got a lot of fans. But 3x80mm and 1x120mm are temp controlled and only snap on in stages starting when the room ambient hits 78 degrees. I usually depend on the 3 in my PSU, the 4 on my rad a 120mm door intake.

 

[Idleuser]

will do, i'll post up results when I mod my case.

 

[Zebo]

Originally posted by: HardWarrior

Originally posted by: Zebo

Originally posted by: HardWarrior
You should be fine then. I have a question for you; what CPU are you mounting that WW on? I'm jumping to a AMD 64 and a refit for my water-cooler for Christmas and I'm considering a WW block.

I use Dtek TC4. Since the C/W values for copper waterblocks are miniscule unlike air products..http://overclockers.com/articles373/wbsum.asp, the TC-4 was $25, already low operating temps of A64's, and it has not the mess of the increased tubbing the WW requires I choose it. Also mounting is a dream. I just flipped the A64 HS retension bracket over and it fit inside like a glove using existing HW and screws.

Anyway I'm using a crappy low pressure pump and run 2650Mhz w a AX rev A64 3000 on Chaintech VNF3-250. Probaly not the featured filled board you're looking for but I can vouch for the AX 3000.

If I were you I'd just make a poly top plate to slide over your WB matching A64's holes? That's a very good WB and does'nt have the tubbing complications or bulk as three pronged blocks like WW.

BTW why on earth you have 10 fans in system?!?! I have two low RPM 120's and PSU fan that's it. Reason I invested in watercooling was primarly silence.

Thanks for the headsup on the TC4. It looks nice, the price is right and I could go for an easy mounting for a change.

The reason I'm was considering the Lanparty UT is because it has overclocking options out the ass AND a full implementation of the NF 3 250 chipset, including a working AGP lock. Where'd you get the AX 3000 from?

Make? Dude, I'd saw my finger off and STILL have to buy a complete block.

Yeah, I've got a lot of fans. But 3x80mm and 1x120mm are temp controlled and only snap on in stages starting when the room ambient hits 78 degrees. I usually depend on the 3 in my PSU, the 4 on my rad a 120mm door intake.

Here's the chip I got http://www.newegg.com/app/View...=19-103-486&depa=1

Notice AX in product code. You don't want an AP which is early rev and not as lucky in regaurds to overclocking. @ $99 bucks right now there is no reason not to choose the DFI board. It has very high quality componets and no 754 or 939 board can touch it in overclocking. I've have bad luck with 939 thus far can't go High FSB in DC mode. maybe try the MSI NEO2 if you go that route. But I may just wait for a PCI Express solution knowing your NV decoding issues with GT. Sell your GT for a PCIe card. Get the 3200 and a ASUS/ABIT/DFI PCIe NF4 board w/ ATI PCIe..maybe after xmas. Otherwise I defitly think "old school" 754 is the way to go if someone wants a A64 RIGHT NOW. Far Better boards, cheaper boards, and clock just as high as thier 90nm 939 counter parts. Only loosing 1-5% depending on app a same clock.