Washer/Dryer Plumbing Installation

polarmystery

Diamond Member
Aug 21, 2005
3,888
8
81
Hey everyone,

Another remodeling question with a sketchup drawing. I'm laying out the plumbing for my washing machine and dryer. As I'm relocating the plumbing, I was curious about whether or not I had everything in my model correct before installing this stuff. Does my drawing look correct? Am I forgetting anything? Any critiques / suggestions are welcome. Thanks.

P.S. I believe code allows for the AAV. Blue studs are on 24" centers (it's for the shower niche). Red studs are non-standard spacing. Was planning on using an Ox Box for the washer / dryer connections. I'm still working on how it will connect to the main drain below the floor.

1558314113470.png
 

highland145

Lifer
Oct 12, 2009
43,973
6,336
136
Not a plumber...
Shouldn't you use a sweep on the clean out and what's code for the distance from the trap to the vent?
 

polarmystery

Diamond Member
Aug 21, 2005
3,888
8
81
Not a plumber...
Shouldn't you use a sweep on the clean out and what's code for the distance from the trap to the vent?

I'm not sure if the clean out needs to be a sweep or not. I've seen both (I'm leaning towards you maybe be right). Trap to vent distance is about ~3ft (I believe 60" is the max length). My county uses the IPC standard for code, so I believe the max length is 5' (I forget the minimum, but I think it's > 18" or so)
 
Last edited:

NutBucket

Lifer
Aug 30, 2000
27,119
613
126
Not to nit-pick but where is the dryer vent? You've got the washer drain labeled incorrectly.

The dryer vent is where folks get themselves into trouble; too many turns, too long of a run, etc.
 

NetWareHead

THAT guy
Aug 10, 2002
5,847
154
106
You dont want to use a wye fiting on where the fixture arm where the washer drains connects to the stack. That will cut off air from the vent. You want to use a sanitary tee. Not sure about the cleanout. This might be a local name but the name around here is a "dandy" which is a fitting specially made to be a cleanout.
Put nail protection plates on all studs that are drilled out for a pipe.
 

polarmystery

Diamond Member
Aug 21, 2005
3,888
8
81
Not to nit-pick but where is the dryer vent? You've got the washer drain labeled incorrectly.

The dryer vent is where folks get themselves into trouble; too many turns, too long of a run, etc.

Dryer vent is supposed to be labeled washer drain vent (the AAV). It's to the top right of the picture. You're right about the label, good catch. That should be named the washer drain pipe. The dryer vent is not shown in this picture.
 
Last edited:

Greenman

Lifer
Oct 15, 1999
21,745
6,173
136
AAV,'s aren't allowed around here.
I assume those studs will be 2x6? There isn't going to be much left after you punch 2 1/2" holes through them.
 

polarmystery

Diamond Member
Aug 21, 2005
3,888
8
81
AAV,'s aren't allowed around here.
I assume those studs will be 2x6? There isn't going to be much left after you punch 2 1/2" holes through them.

I don't know if they are allowed where I live or not (My jurisdiction uses the IPC standard). Nope they are 2x4s. That wall and the one next to it are non load-bearing (even though they have two top plates). And yeah you're right, there's not going to be much meat on those bones (This was a half-bath at first, and I'm remodeling it to a full. They used 2" pipe through the studs w/a metal plate).

Edit: I changed all of the studs on the plumbing wall to 2x6's. A hole for a 2" pipe (~2 3/8") is too big even for a non-load bearing wall. I guess on the bright side is the shower niche shelf is a little deeper :p
 
Last edited: