Warm start problems...

[mvbighead]

Well, I think I have an idea, but looking for some confirmation...

05 Equinox, occasionally exhibits a rough start (generally after going to start it within an hour or so of it running). It cranks and cranks and cranks, but takes a while to finally start.

This problem seems common for this model, and there are reports of it everywhere. After perusing multiple forums, it seems likely that I have a bad check valve in the fuel pump. As the replacement of that requires dropping the tank, I am less than excited, especially when others mention that they've had that done, and the problem generally comes right back (generally within 50K miles of driving).

The solution that seems to be optimal, from my point of view, was to add an fuel line check valve at the fuel line (not the pump). This would stop bleed back of fuel, and keep fuel in the line so the vehicle can start without issue (according to some) the next time.

The other solution is to simply turn the key and leave the vehicle in the on position for 3-5 seconds to allow the fuel pump to prime. While this may work, I would rather not have to have little tricks to getting this thing started.

The solution I am looking at is this:
http://www.amazon.com/SUR-Auto-Parts.../dp/B0017RCK44

Seems logical, as when the fuel goes to bleed back, the valve closes and the fuel stays in the line, where it is supposed to be. Does this seem logical to most of you?

No check engine light, normal running vehicle, just rough starts that occur when the car is warm. Just looking for ideas, but from the sounds of some forums as well as product reviews, this seems like an entirely plausible solution.

 

[mvbighead]

It sounds as if a different problem is actually more likely... an EGR valve. Hmmm.

FYI, I am just shooting ideas out here. Not likely to try anything unless the cost is right and the solution is reasonable. As it is, from the sounds of this problem, many have it, and not many dealers know what to do about it.

There is a recall on the valve, however.

Here is an "updated" EGR valve:

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/EGRTube/Ch..._content=EGT&gclid=CMvQ7p6_5bICFQjZQgodTHUAAw

EDIT: Actually, this is just the tube that will connect to the updated EGR valve, but you get my point.

EDIT#2: EGR valve seems less likely, as the symptoms don't really match up.

One really odd comments was that someone modified the throttle body to increase air flow. While I sure as crap won't be doing that, I will be checking and cleaning that at my earliest convenience.

Others do mention that pressing the gas pedal when trying to start generally always leads to a successful start. That, to me, would suggest that the throttle body is a good place to start as pressing the gas pedal opens it up and allows in more air. As I can clean it for basically free, it's the first thing I'll be trying.

I'll also be replacing the plugs, though that'll wait for this weekend.

 

[franksta]

Is this a return style fuel system? What length of time does it take to start when it's warm? Did you try letting the fuel pump pressurize the lines before cranking or do you go directly from OFF to START when turning the key?

I don't think this is an EGR problem.

 

[mvbighead]

Is this a return style fuel system? What length of time does it take to start when it's warm? Did you try letting the fuel pump pressurize the lines before cranking or do you go directly from OFF to START when turning the key?

I don't think this is an EGR problem.

Yes, I go from Off to Start when turning the key.

For me, most times it seems like one pass of the engine turning hard but not turning over, followed by a start the second time.

It's not a complete pain in the ass yet, but it is bothersome.

EDIT: And I do agree, it doesn't seem to be related to the EGR.

 

[franksta]

Maybe try pausing when the key gets to the RUN position. Give the fuel pump a second or two to build pressure in the lines/rail.

 

[mvbighead]

That's another thing I'll be trying. Thanks for the input.

I do want to say though that this problem does not occur when the engine is cold. This leads me to believe fuel pressure is not the issue, as the symptoms would be worse the longer the car sits, right?

I just recently went to lunch with a co-worker which took no more than 20-30 minutes to get in and out of the restaurant. In that time, I was presented with the problem. When I started it at the parking lot of work to go to the restaurant, it started just fine (after sitting in the lot for 3-4 hours).

 

[LTC8K6]

Warm start problems have been related to the evap system on a couple of my cars.

 

[desy]

Run some sea foam through it

 

[mvbighead]

Run some sea foam through it

Already did that one. 1/3 vacuum, 1/3 fuel tank, none in the crank case though.

 

[Squisher]

The other solution is to simply turn the key and leave the vehicle in the on position for 3-5 seconds to allow the fuel pump to prime. While this may work, I would rather not have to have little tricks to getting this thing started.

If this works it would certainly narrow down the cause of the problem.

 

[mvbighead]

If this works it would certainly narrow down the cause of the problem.

Indeed. Haven't been driving the vehicle enough to get the specific pattern, but it does seem to only occur at warm re-starts. Thus far, every cold start has been fine.

 

[SparkyJJO]

I would think that if it was fuel bleed back issues that it would be worse at a cold start after it has sat more than a warm start when it hasn't been sitting that long.

 

[phucheneh]

Sorry, on my way out the door, will read this more thoroughly later...but I wanted to say that a loss of residual fuel pressure (bad regulator, leaking injector, bad check valve) is generally a COLD start problem, not hot.

EGR valve, if it is defaulting to an open position, is definitely possible. Engines do not idle well, and will be hard to start, if the EGR valve is remaining open. I would assume that car has an electric solenoid operating the valve with the computer controlling it, though, and those solenoids should fail in the closed position...could just be stuck, though.

Pretty sure I can help you diag this, since unlike a lot of people who post problems, you actually GIVE INFO...crazy thing, right?

Will be back in a bit...just didn't want you to start throwing parts at it, imo, it doesn't sound like you need to- you can find the bad part here without any 'shotgunning.'

 

[phucheneh]

If this works it would certainly narrow down the cause of the problem.

This is true. If cycling the key makes it start faster (every time you cycle, the fuel pump will run briefly), that would point to a fuel issue. But I'm gonna bet it won't make a difference.

It sounds as if a different problem is actually more likely... an EGR valve. Hmmm.

FYI, I am just shooting ideas out here. Not likely to try anything unless the cost is right and the solution is reasonable. As it is, from the sounds of this problem, many have it, and not many dealers know what to do about it.

There is a recall on the valve, however.

Here is an "updated" EGR valve:

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/EGRTube/Ch..._content=EGT&gclid=CMvQ7p6_5bICFQjZQgodTHUAAw

EDIT: Actually, this is just the tube that will connect to the updated EGR valve, but you get my point.

EDIT#2: EGR valve seems less likely, as the symptoms don't really match up.

One really odd comments was that someone modified the throttle body to increase air flow. While I sure as crap won't be doing that, I will be checking and cleaning that at my earliest convenience.

Others do mention that pressing the gas pedal when trying to start generally always leads to a successful start. That, to me, would suggest that the throttle body is a good place to start as pressing the gas pedal opens it up and allows in more air. As I can clean it for basically free, it's the first thing I'll be trying.

I'll also be replacing the plugs, though that'll wait for this weekend.

You shouldn't need to mess with the throttle body...I don't know what that's about. It was designed with some precision, and no one should just go boring out holes or anything...I'm thinking if someone is doing this, it may have to do with EGR clogging (if that's where it feeds to). This is again the opposite of your problem, though...EGR won't be commanded on at start, so a blockage means nothing (in regards to your complaint)

I would say to clean up your terminology a bit...generally 'turning over' is the engine physically cranking. When people say things like 'it turned over but wouldn't start' with regard to a stone-dead battery, or 'it cranked but it wouldn't turn over,' there will always be confusion. Turn/turn over/crank all mean the same thing- engine can be physically heard spinning as a result of the starter doing it's job.

In mechanic-land, your problem would be referred to as a 'crank no start.' Some also say 'no crank no start' to refer to the other common problem, but that's a bit redundant...'no crank' can be used to infer that the car is not starting.

ANYHOO...

How bad is this condition, again? Is it just that the engine usually goes (onomatopoeia time) 'chug chug' and then start, and now it's throwing in one or two more 'chugs'? Each of those noises is a compression stroke, rather than a complete revolution, but the common terminology is something like 'it turns over twice before it starts.'

edit: wanted to add in here...is the cranking constant and at a normal speed? No slowing down, no sputtering ('sputtering' would be an intermittent successful firing of the ignition)?

2-3 times is perfectly normal. The PCM is usually waiting for the cam sensor to come to a position it can interpret, so it knows when to fire the injectors. Some cars start very quick, usually because the cam sensor is designed more elaborately, or there's more than one; so it 'picks up' this signal quicker.

Random lesson- Crank sensor (CKP) constantly monitors engine speed, but cannot tell which cylinder is firing. Cam sensor (CMP) monitors the actual position of the engine for timing purposes, but it updates less often than the CKP. Many cars, you can actually unplug the cam sensor(s) after the vehicle has started, and it'll keep running. It's just there to give that initial information while cranking.

Not saying your cam sensor is bad, just explaining why you shouldn't expect instant starts. In fact, I would bet money your cam sensor is fine; however, the closely-related variable valve timing parts could be causing a hard start symptom. Usually, the ECM is able to make changes to the cam sprocket position to advance/retard valve timing. Lack of maintenance (sludging) or simply a faulty part can cause this 'hub' to keep the cam sprocket in the wrong position, causing a hard start and/or poor performance.

 

[phucheneh]

Oh yeah...has the car got a tach? How's your idle speed? Does the trans seem to 'clunk' into drive from park?

If those EGR tubes are breaking (it looks like the same old-ass part that's been breaking on GM V6's (Camaros are what I remember) since the 90's), that will cause a vacuum leak, which raises idle speed AND...makes the car hard to start, because it's sucking in unmetered air, leaning out the mixture too much.

A stuck-open purge valve can also be a cause of a vacuum leak, as I think someone mentioned.

Almost all this stuff should set a CEL, though. Fuel trim codes can take a while to set, though.

 

[mvbighead]

This is true. If cycling the key makes it start faster (every time you cycle, the fuel pump will run briefly), that would point to a fuel issue. But I'm gonna bet it won't make a difference.




You shouldn't need to mess with the throttle body...I don't know what that's about. It was designed with some precision, and no one should just go boring out holes or anything...I'm thinking if someone is doing this, it may have to do with EGR clogging (if that's where it feeds to). This is again the opposite of your problem, though...EGR won't be commanded on at start, so a blockage means nothing (in regards to your complaint)

I would say to clean up your terminology a bit...generally 'turning over' is the engine physically cranking. When people say things like 'it turned over but wouldn't start' with regard to a stone-dead battery, or 'it cranked but it wouldn't turn over,' there will always be confusion. Turn/turn over/crank all mean the same thing- engine can be physically heard spinning as a result of the starter doing it's job.

In mechanic-land, your problem would be referred to as a 'crank no start.' Some also say 'no crank no start' to refer to the other common problem, but that's a bit redundant...'no crank' can be used to infer that the car is not starting.

ANYHOO...

How bad is this condition, again? Is it just that the engine usually goes (onomatopoeia time) 'chug chug' and then start, and now it's throwing in one or two more 'chugs'? Each of those noises is a compression stroke, rather than a complete revolution, but the common terminology is something like 'it turns over twice before it starts.'

edit: wanted to add in here...is the cranking constant and at a normal speed? No slowing down, no sputtering ('sputtering' would be an intermittent successful firing of the ignition)?

2-3 times is perfectly normal. The PCM is usually waiting for the cam sensor to come to a position it can interpret, so it knows when to fire the injectors. Some cars start very quick, usually because the cam sensor is designed more elaborately, or there's more than one; so it 'picks up' this signal quicker.

Random lesson- Crank sensor (CKP) constantly monitors engine speed, but cannot tell which cylinder is firing. Cam sensor (CMP) monitors the actual position of the engine for timing purposes, but it updates less often than the CKP. Many cars, you can actually unplug the cam sensor(s) after the vehicle has started, and it'll keep running. It's just there to give that initial information while cranking.

Not saying your cam sensor is bad, just explaining why you shouldn't expect instant starts. In fact, I would bet money your cam sensor is fine; however, the closely-related variable valve timing parts could be causing a hard start symptom. Usually, the ECM is able to make changes to the cam sprocket position to advance/retard valve timing. Lack of maintenance (sludging) or simply a faulty part can cause this 'hub' to keep the cam sprocket in the wrong position, causing a hard start and/or poor performance.

You're right there, my terminology is lacking.

Suffice it to say, it cranks just fine, it just doesn't start. That to me should suggest that the battery and starter should be in good working order.

Which would leave a fuel, air, or spark issue.

The EGR valve has a common problem on these models, service bulletins and all that. I have yet to see if mine has been replaced, but it sounds like the 2005s and 2006s came with faulty valves (or at least problematic valves). With that being the case, I may just look for the valve and see if I can determine if it is the "old" valve, and if it is, see about finding a replacement. They aren't the cheapest thing though, but they really aren't that bad either.

As for the throttle body, my only aim there is to clean it. Seems some that have reported this problem to the dealer are told they should be cleaning that regularly (20k miles or so). (EDIT: This point is likely used to shift blame to the customer, but a clean throttle body is always a good thing.) I figure, on this one, even though it likely won't solve anything, it's not a bad thing to do on a used car. And who knows, maybe it'll help.

How bad it is... well, the first attempt to start in sound like about 3-4 times. The second was pretty much right away, if I recall. This has only happened twice so far, but we've only started in warm a few times. So I guess that means there was at least one instance where it warm started fine.

As of yet, still no codes. Everything seems just fine outside of this warm start problem. Trans doesn't seem to clunk, IMO. I'll need to follow up with you on the idle. To me, it seemed higher than my Impala, as that usually sits around 5-600 if I recall. This has seemed to surge a bit initially (IE - up to 1000 or so, then drop to 300, then back up to 500-600.) Maybe that's a clue?

 

[LTC8K6]

If there is an IACV, that could be a candidate. Idle Air Control Valve.

 

[bruceb]

Had an issue like that way back on my 1991 Grand Am .. it turned out to be a bad Fuel Pressure Regulator. It is a vacuum operated device, mounted on the end of the fuel injector rail. They have a rubber diaprahm inside, which can leak over time.

 

[mvbighead]

Well, lets just add completely sporadic to the list. Just took in on a drive to town to run some errands. Engine got to operating temperature, and stopped and sat for 10-15 minutes per location. All three stops, all three times it started just fine. Perhaps it didn't sit quite long enough, but all three times the engine was started the engine was at operating temperature not more than 10-15 minutes prior.

Not sure if that points it in any one way or the other. I just really wish there was a check engine light that might at least point me in one of the directions being discussed.

 

[darom]

I guess it is time to invest in some tools and go at troubleshooting your car's issues:

1. CPS - it is possible that your crank position sensor is slowly failing (I agree with phucheneh on this one). You will need to find the electrical diagram, find the right cable going to the car's ECU and measure the CPS' resistance. For example, with the engine off, it should be 600-900 Ohms. Anything below/above - replace it.

2. Inadequate fuel pressure - failing fuel pump, bad fuel pressure regulator. You will need to measure the fuel pressure at startup and idling. There should be a pressure port for the tester on the fuel rail somewhere. On some cars, the FPR is inside the fuel tank or in the engine bay in case you will need to replace it. The fuel pump is most likely in the fuel tank.

3. Bad battery or failing alternator - get your DVM and measure the battery at idle and with the engine off.

4. Various vacuum leaks around intake/throttle area. Throttle and the air filter box rubber hose, PCV hose etc. I doubt it it is the case since the car idles fine and it doesn't throw any codes.

5. Get a cheap OBD2 scanner and read your car's ECU for any codes.

6. Check your coils, do you have a spark? If the coils malfunction, you will have hard time starting the car. Usually it happens when the car is hot, the coils overheat etc. However, today's cars are pretty good at detecting misfires - your car's computer would have showed the trouble codes by then.

I would make a guess that your fuel pump is going south, a simple fuel pressure check would have verified that.

GL!

 

[LTC8K6]

IIRC the warm start problem is a common unsolved problem for that vehicle.

 

[phucheneh]

You're right there, my terminology is lacking.

Suffice it to say, it cranks just fine, it just doesn't start. That to me should suggest that the battery and starter should be in good working order.

Which would leave a fuel, air, or spark issue.

The EGR valve has a common problem on these models, service bulletins and all that. I have yet to see if mine has been replaced, but it sounds like the 2005s and 2006s came with faulty valves (or at least problematic valves). With that being the case, I may just look for the valve and see if I can determine if it is the "old" valve, and if it is, see about finding a replacement. They aren't the cheapest thing though, but they really aren't that bad either.

As for the throttle body, my only aim there is to clean it. Seems some that have reported this problem to the dealer are told they should be cleaning that regularly (20k miles or so). (EDIT: This point is likely used to shift blame to the customer, but a clean throttle body is always a good thing.) I figure, on this one, even though it likely won't solve anything, it's not a bad thing to do on a used car. And who knows, maybe it'll help.

How bad it is... well, the first attempt to start in sound like about 3-4 times. The second was pretty much right away, if I recall. This has only happened twice so far, but we've only started in warm a few times. So I guess that means there was at least one instance where it warm started fine.

As of yet, still no codes. Everything seems just fine outside of this warm start problem. Trans doesn't seem to clunk, IMO. I'll need to follow up with you on the idle. To me, it seemed higher than my Impala, as that usually sits around 5-600 if I recall. This has seemed to surge a bit initially (IE - up to 1000 or so, then drop to 300, then back up to 500-600.) Maybe that's a clue?

Hearing that peak in the cranking noise 3-4 times just isn't really abnormal. With a healthy battery, what's that, like...a second of cranking?

Like I said, it can take a second for the PCM to get a good clean cam sensor signal. Different crank times can literally just come down to what position the engine came to rest at when you shut it down.

This is your engine, right?

I don't know what kind of retardation is going on with that EGR valve. It's definitely electric but not a design I can recall seeing. How many wires are on that connector?

Having heard of EGR problems with this motor (there's even a TSB about the pintle being stuck) and knowing the issues a stuck valve can cause, I would definitely check that thing out. Basically, remove the wiring connector and manually connect power and ground on the proper terminals, listening for a consistent solenoid click when you turn it on and off.

However, if that's not a straightforward on-off solenoid, it's a little harder to test. A quick google search is not yielding much info on its operation. I dunno if it has multiple positions, or is pulse-width modulated (cycled at a certain rate to get the desired flow).

Also, it appears you have an electronic throttle ('throttle by wire'). Operated by a fucking starter motor...jesus that thing's big. Yes, cleaning it may help a lot with idle quality. The engine should NEVER be dipping down to 300rpm. When hot, I'd say it should probably idle at about 1000rpm in park, maybe a little less. Somewhere around 700-800 in drive is typical.

When you shift from park into gear, does the tach bob down below the normal idle speed, then come back up? Is it generally steady, i.e. can you see visible movement when stopped...say, 50rpm or more of variation? Does the idle drop when you pull up to stop signs, then recover?

Those are all signs of throttle issues. You don't have an IAC, since the electric motor that operates the throttle manages idle speed by direct manipulation of the butterfly valve inside the throttle body.

You'll want to get the supposedly 'electronics safe' throttle cleaner. Personally, I still just use brake clean, but this is one of those 'do as I say not as I do' type of things, as you CAN kill a throttle module (or the TPS on a cable throttle) by cleaning it.

Usually, though, they get smoked because someone thought 'cleaning' meant hosing it out with a whole can of some kind of parts cleaner (even the 'safe' kind). The trick is in only cleaning what you need to- the carbon build-up on and around the throttle plate.

Disconnect and remove the throttle before cleaning. Slowly push the butterfly/throttle plate (same thing) open and hold it (don't force it if it doesn't want to move quickly). Apply the cleaner to a rag (lightly, don't soak it) and simply wipe out all the black build-up on either side of the throttle plate, as well as the edges and faces of said plate. Reinstall. Idle will probably improve.

I would also check to see if there is a software update for your engine computer. Call the dealer and see if they can pull the service history for you (info on any warranty repair or recall/campaign performed should be accessible at any dealer). This was probably one of GM's earlier tries at TBW, and it's on an admittedly cheap engine. I would actually bet on there having been software updates to remedy idle complaints. Also possible EGR problems...I saw a couple things about actual PCM's being replaced (not just reprogrammed) but I haven't found a recall or TSB on that.

I didn't realize that thing was a pushrod motor. Definitely no VVT issues...and it's got plug wires...I'm assuming it's the three coil waste spark system...if there's a distributor under that engine cover I'm gonna shit myself.

 

[LTC8K6]

Some of GM's pushrod V6's of that era had VVT via variable cam timing, but the LNJ is not one of them.

 

[mvbighead]

Hearing that peak in the cranking noise 3-4 times just isn't really abnormal. With a healthy battery, what's that, like...a second of cranking?

Like I said, it can take a second for the PCM to get a good clean cam sensor signal. Different crank times can literally just come down to what position the engine came to rest at when you shut it down.

This is your engine, right?

I don't know what kind of retardation is going on with that EGR valve. It's definitely electric but not a design I can recall seeing. How many wires are on that connector?

Having heard of EGR problems with this motor (there's even a TSB about the pintle being stuck) and knowing the issues a stuck valve can cause, I would definitely check that thing out. Basically, remove the wiring connector and manually connect power and ground on the proper terminals, listening for a consistent solenoid click when you turn it on and off.

However, if that's not a straightforward on-off solenoid, it's a little harder to test. A quick google search is not yielding much info on its operation. I dunno if it has multiple positions, or is pulse-width modulated (cycled at a certain rate to get the desired flow).

Also, it appears you have an electronic throttle ('throttle by wire'). Operated by a fucking starter motor...jesus that thing's big. Yes, cleaning it may help a lot with idle quality. The engine should NEVER be dipping down to 300rpm. When hot, I'd say it should probably idle at about 1000rpm in park, maybe a little less. Somewhere around 700-800 in drive is typical.

When you shift from park into gear, does the tach bob down below the normal idle speed, then come back up? Is it generally steady, i.e. can you see visible movement when stopped...say, 50rpm or more of variation? Does the idle drop when you pull up to stop signs, then recover?

Those are all signs of throttle issues. You don't have an IAC, since the electric motor that operates the throttle manages idle speed by direct manipulation of the butterfly valve inside the throttle body.

You'll want to get the supposedly 'electronics safe' throttle cleaner. Personally, I still just use brake clean, but this is one of those 'do as I say not as I do' type of things, as you CAN kill a throttle module (or the TPS on a cable throttle) by cleaning it.

Usually, though, they get smoked because someone thought 'cleaning' meant hosing it out with a whole can of some kind of parts cleaner (even the 'safe' kind). The trick is in only cleaning what you need to- the carbon build-up on and around the throttle plate.

Disconnect and remove the throttle before cleaning. Slowly push the butterfly/throttle plate (same thing) open and hold it (don't force it if it doesn't want to move quickly). Apply the cleaner to a rag (lightly, don't soak it) and simply wipe out all the black build-up on either side of the throttle plate, as well as the edges and faces of said plate. Reinstall. Idle will probably improve.

I would also check to see if there is a software update for your engine computer. Call the dealer and see if they can pull the service history for you (info on any warranty repair or recall/campaign performed should be accessible at any dealer). This was probably one of GM's earlier tries at TBW, and it's on an admittedly cheap engine. I would actually bet on there having been software updates to remedy idle complaints. Also possible EGR problems...I saw a couple things about actual PCM's being replaced (not just reprogrammed) but I haven't found a recall or TSB on that.

I didn't realize that thing was a pushrod motor. Definitely no VVT issues...and it's got plug wires...I'm assuming it's the three coil waste spark system...if there's a distributor under that engine cover I'm gonna shit myself.

Wow, LOTS and LOTS of info here. Yeesh.

I will say that I did find a recall on the PCM, but it applied to a different section of VINs than what I have. It'd take a bit of digging to find that again, but it doesn't seem to apply. However, one can't be completely rule it out just cause it doesn't match the VIN number, but it doesn't look to be in the group of bad ones.

The engine pic looks right to me.

Thanks for the added tips on cleaning the throttle body. I did use a different method on my Jeep a while back. No issues there. I'll be removing this one and cleaning it as suggested.

I'll probably look to clean the throttle body and install the spark plugs this weekend, however I am in the process of selling my Jeep so that may take some of my time away. That and duck hunting, football, etc...

At this point, I am not sure what to think. I've yet to have the problem again, but then I also don't have the vehicle plated (hoping to sell the Jeep before the in-transit tags expire in 20 days, shouldn't be an issue) and am not driving it every day, so I've only seen the problem twice.

That said, it was noticeable both times. But my last time driving it didn't produce the same problem. The only real thing I have done to this thing is change the oil, seafoamed the fuel system, and seafoamed the vacuum system (which produced a lot of smoke as it is supposed to). However, the problem still occurred after this, but then didn't occur at all yesterday. And perhaps that is due to the seafoam in the fuel system clearing things up... who the heck knows.

I would like to point out that, aside from the occasional starting issue, this thing runs just fine, accelerates great (for what it is), and seems normal in every other respect. I have yet to check the mpg to see if it is on target for where it is supposed to be, but I have yet to fill it and reset the trip so I can't do much for a while until it gets driven a bit more. I am going to have to make a list of what all has been mentioned here and start to organize from most to least likely (and I suppose most to least expensive).

As it is, if it is related to the fuel pump at all, I suspect it is not a lack of pressure issue from the pump itself, but rather a bleed back problem that may be solved by a check valve. And who knows, maybe the the valve in the pump was gunked up and the seafoam is slowly freeing it up so that it can close? I have no idea, just shooting out (possibly bad) ideas.

Well, here's to this weekend and having a little more fun.

 

[JCH13]

If it reliably restarts after you let the fuel pump re-pressurize the system... well... I think that clearly points towards a fuel system related problem. The fuel check valve, fuel pressure regulator, any fuel-related vacuum lines, and fuel pump are good options to investigate. That's where I would start.