Want to fix car: 1987 Prelude 2.0 Si, multiple problems

[UlricT]

Hey all.

Noticed that there are quite a few mechanics around, and thought that they could help out with my problems. Its been almost a year since I bought this car (May 2002), for $400, when it was at 177K miles. I ran it well over the summer (30 mi a day) without any problems and have used it very little since. Now that summer is coming along again, I've decided that I should return the favor and help out the car .
I have to warn you guys though... I have very little experience working on cars, so consider me aa total noob there. I am also a poor college student, who can barely make ends meet. Im planning to work over summer to pay for all this stuff. I DO plan on keeping this car for as long as possible, so remember that in your recommendations.

This is the little stuff I have done to the car:
1. ADDED (not changed) oil about 6 months ago. Will elaborate on this later.

2. Fixed a power-steering fluid leak, which got that working again with the addition of new fluid. It was a rubber hose, which was cracked where it was attached at the base of the fluid container. Also, added some power-steering fluid leak stopper, which seems to have helped.

3. Added coolant/anti-freeze.

4. Replaced blown brake-lamp, headlight.

Anyway, here are the problems.

I will list them out, as there are quite a few. Hope you guys can help.

1. One of my main problems is my exhaust system. The thing is rusted out. COMPLETELY. I will have to buy a system. Where can I get this cheap. Will it be better if I approach a mechanic? Is it better to buy from Autozone or something?

2. This has a manual gearbox, and about 4 months ago, the 5th gear stooped working. What happened was that I was cruising along the freeway at about 65MPH in 5th when there is a POPping, and the car slips out of gear. When I try to put it in 5th, the only thing I get is a GRINDING noise. The car runs fine with 4 forward/1 reverse, but I have to go to high revs on the interstate in 4th. So, I suppose this has to be replaced too?

3. My clutch system has also worn thin, as engine power is not transmitted to the wheel unless I'm at optimum RPMs for a specific gear. Do I have any choice other than replacement?

4. There is a light on the instrument panel called PGM-FI, which lights up after about 5 minutes of running the engine above 3000 RPM. Is there any way to ascertain what this means?

5. The car makes a knocking sound whenever a turn (>45deg) is made under engine power. I suspect this is something called the CV joint, because anyone who hears it says that is what it is. What do I do about this?

6. My Hazard inidicator switch seems to be on the blink (i know... a REALLY bad pun). The switch got depressed, and will not come out how much ever I try. The only rough-and-ready solution other than pulling out the indicator fuse (which cut off my L-R signals as well) was to cut out the wires leading to the hazard switch. This worked, but now I have no Hazard warning blinkers. Is there a replacement I can find anywhere for this?
/UPDATE: Seems like this is a common problem for 2nd gen preludes. All I need to do is replace the switch, and this is fine.

7. My speedometer works only on occasion. Initially, it would die off, but if I gave the panel a good whack, it would come on-line again. Nowadays though, it just chooses when to come on, and when to turn off. I can hold speed looking at my RPM, but my cruise control will not work unless the speedo is working.

This is all I can remember... will let you guys know more if any comes to mind.

Is there any place I can get detailed help or even purchase a detailed manual for my PARTICULAR vehicle, which includes wiring diagrams or something of the sort?

 

[Ladies Man]

clutch/tranny sound like they are shot

i suggest you find another $400 car cus it will cost you well over $400 to fix all the problems listed.

 

[UlricT]

I just want to do these fixes slowly, as the engine seems to be running perfectly. Do not want to abandon the vehicle if there is any hope left.

How much will it come to replace my clutch/tranny at a mechanic?

 

[Ns1]

clutch tranny is 1500 give or take a few hundred

if you're willing to spend 6 bucks

www.preludeonline.com has alot of information

 

[Ornery]

177K miles? She's done her job, let her die in peace!

The good part is, you haven't invested anything in it... yet. Don't do it. You got your money's worth out of it, so it's time to bail. Buy a car you REALLY like and put your time and effort into that one. $2,000.00 ought to buy you an identical car with about 100K on it.

 

[UlricT]

Thanks NeuroSynapsis.... will take a look at the site!

Ornery, I know what you mean... but I really do not want to let her go. The problem is I cannot find $2000 for another car right now. Also, I am pretty cautious about buying a car, because a lot of my friends (4 to be exact), had problems after spending $2500-$3000 each on their cars. Only one guy has his car still running. And all 4 were bought in the past 6 months!!!

 

[Ornery]

You buy a used car, you count on putting money into it. That's the law. I just don't think this one is worth it. The engine soon will need rebuilding. When's the last time the timing belt was replaced? Import parts and labor aren't cheap and everything is due to die like yesterday. You're going to stick a couple grand in it, and the problems will continue.

If you really want a Japanese import, I think the best bang for the buck would be with a new one. The sweet spot for domestics would be at about 5 or 6 years old. A $2,000.00 Prelude is rolling the dice. Might last you 50K miles with few problems, might cost you a couple grand in the next year or two. Do ya feel lucky? Either way, I'd still say that one is done.

 

[radioouman]

You could have someone rebuild that transmission. However, at this point it would probably be cheaper to get another transmission from a junkyard and have a mechanic replace the clutch at the same time.

You can get most of the components for your exhaust from Autozone. If you take it to a muffler chain store (midas, tuffy, etc.), they will charge you a fortune. Your best bet is to figure out exactly what needs to be replaced in the exhaust, and start replacing. If the exhaust pipes aren't soft from rust, you can still use them unless they have holes or cracks. Just replace anything that is either soft or has holes in it. You can get super cheap mufflers from almost any parts store. ($20-$30)

Have someone replace the CV joints for you. They almost certainly have torn/missing boots, and have lost their grease. They need to be replaced. (If the boots are torn, you could try wiping some grease into them, but that is really only a temporary fix, since without the boots, they will lose their grease again.)

I'm sure that you can get a replacement hazard light switch at the Honda dealer or a junkyard.

I have no idea what that light in your dashboard means.. (PGM-FI)


If the body isn't terribly rusted out, and the engine is as good as you say it is, you should be able to get it going again. It will need some transmission work for sure, and I know that as soon as you start having it worked on, there will be lots of other things that it will need.

Oh yeah, go to Autozone and get the Haynes or Chiltons manual for it. It's $20, and should give you most of the information you need.

 

[UlricT]

Again, I know what you are talking about, Ornery. But this IS my first car. I might have had my run of luck with her, but I simply have to try getting something more out of our relationship

Thanks Radioouman, your suggestions are really helpful! I was thinking along the same routes, but needed some prodding. What exactly are CV joints? And boots? what are they? like I said... Im a noobie here... . Also, someone was telling me that the Chilton manuals are for a wide range of cars, and does not cover any specific model in depth.

 

[Ornery]

radioouman, don't you have a Rainbow Muffler near you anywhere? I quit installing exhaust sytems like 20 years ago. These guys put on exhausts from the converters back, for about $125.00 total on full size cars! No way I can beat that. No way I'll even try! My mechanic will match that price too, using Walker pipes and muffler.

 

[UlricT]

hmmm... just found another site.... Prelude Power. Seems to have some info. Will update...

 

[radioouman]

Ornery,
That's a good price!! Very good... I took a Saturn to Midas or Tuffy once, and they wanted almost $400, not including the cat! I figured that Honda exhausts would probably be expensive like Saturns..
Anyway....

UlricT,
I've never owned a Chilton's manual. I've always bought Haynes manuals. The latest one that I bought is for my 1993 Dodge Dakota. The manual covers 1987-1996 Dodge Dakotas. That includes the 2.5 liter 4 cylinder engine, 3.9 liter V6, and 5.2 liter V8. It also includes 2 wheel drive and 4 wheel drive models. And to make it more confusing, the first Dakotas were carbeurated, then for a year or two they were throttle body injected, and then finally multi-point injected! However, these trucks are similiar enough that they can cover all of them. (However, there are mistakes in every single Haynes manual that I've ever seen. Usually, they aren't major mistakes though.)

I'd still go buy the manual for your car. They are much cheaper than the factory service manual for your car, and give you all of the information that you need for regular maintenance on your car.

CV joints are constant velocity joints. They allow your half-shafts (axles going from the transmission to the front wheels) to move with the wheels. I mean that the wheel moves due to steering, and suspension, and the half shafts need to be continuously connected to the wheels so you can move your car! You have a rubber boot that covers the CJ joints and keeps grease on them. When the boot splits, the grease leaks out, and water and dirt get in. When the grease is contaminated, the joint won't work correctly. If they are dry, (no grease), they are in BAD shape!

 

[Zenmervolt]

The PGM-FI light means that your car's fuel injection system is malfunctioning. This could be as simple as a dead oxygen sensor, or it could be something much more expensive. Reading the trouble codes is done through a single blinking LED on the ECU. Have a mechanic check them.

The transmission has blown out the 5th gear cluster. This is fairly common on older Honda transmission (I've known a few people with manual Accords who have had the same problem). If you get a transmission from a junkyard, you can't be sure about it blowing up again.

Clutch needs to be replaced, no way around that.

Hazard switch is probably a relatively simple fix that will cost huge amounts to track down. (Electrical problems are a huge PITA.)

Speedometer is driven off of the transmission I believe. Check to see if the cable is kinked.

ZV

 

[zCypher]

I don't have anything helpful to say, but good luck getting that Prelude going again! If I remember correctly, those old Prelude's were really light - so the 2.0 Si should be pretty quick!

 

[LS20]

go to preludeonline.com and post in their forums. you'll find more help there!@

 

[UlricT]

ok Radioouman... I think I will get the manual. And I guess I have to take a look at my CV joints ASAP...

Thanks for the info on the PGM-FI light, Zenmervolt. Guess I will get that checked later, when I take the vehicle to a mechanic. I got some info on the hazards... seems to be a common problem w/ 2nd gen preludes. It is the switch... thats for sure. So, no electircal problems. Also, I think the speedo cable has to be replaced... nothing else.

zCypher... yeah, it was pretty quick before the clutch wore out and the 5th gear broke. Remember hitting 110MPH on the freeway racing a camaro last summer..

 

[notfred]

You'd be better off throwing the car off a cliff and getting a new one.

 

[UlricT]

Originally posted by: notfred
You'd be better off throwing the car off a cliff and getting a new one.

yeah... that should be one HELL of a ride... esp. if I drove it off the above mentioned cliff...