Using 220-volt hot pot in USA. Can I swap cord thing w/ one from a 120-volt grill?

[Ichinisan]

The sister of my boss / landlord sent this screenshot:



She asked me to find a hot pot like the one in the picture. Though the picture makes it look HUGE, I believe it's actually much smaller. I found some models online with a similar style, but they are all 220-volt.







Since the temperature control is on the detachable 220-volt cord thing, I assume the electrical connections on the hot pot lead directly to the heating elements. Would it be possible (and safe) to use a similar cord from a 120-volt griddle or something?

This is the product listing I got those pictures from:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32984646818.html

 

[PowerEngineer]

I feel compelled to officially recommend against ever applying the wrong voltages to any electrical equipment. With that said, doing so is usually only dangerous when applying a voltage that is higher than it is designed for. If I understand you correctly, you are contemplating a modification that would apply only half of the grill's designed voltage. My guess is that it would be "safe" in the sense that it wouldn't overtax the grill's electrical insulation.

Even so, the result might not be pleasing. Assuming that the grill is using a simple resistive heating element, the amount of heat produced is proportional to the square of the applied voltage, and so halving the applied voltage (from 220-ish volts to 110-ish volts) would quarter the produced heat from the rated 1200W to just 300W. No sizzle in that! 🥓

Here are some 110v alternatives on Amazon:

LIVEN Electric Hot Pot with Grill

Electric Grill Indoor Hot Pot Multifunctional Non-Stick

The second one at 2400W might even trip a dedicated 120V 20 amp circuit breaker.

 

[pcgeek11]

I wouldn't recommend the cord replacement thing. You won't get the results you desire.

You could get a step up transformer to change the 120 to 220 with a proper current rating.

 

[Ichinisan]

I feel compelled to officially recommend against ever applying the wrong voltages to any electrical equipment. With that said, doing so is usually only dangerous when applying a voltage that is higher than it is designed for. If I understand you correctly, you are contemplating a modification that would apply only half of the grill's designed voltage. My guess is that it would be "safe" in the sense that it wouldn't overtax the grill's electrical insulation.

Even so, the result might not be pleasing. Assuming that the grill is using a simple resistive heating element, the amount of heat produced is proportional to the square of the applied voltage, and so halving the applied voltage (from 220-ish volts to 110-ish volts) would quarter the produced heat from the rated 1200W to just 300W. No sizzle in that! 🥓

I wouldn't recommend the cord replacement thing. You won't get the results you desire.

...

Do you think the heating elements themselves are different between regions? Logically, the pot and heating elements should be the same and all the regional differences should be in the removable cord thing (which also has the temperature control dial).

Something like this MSPAINT mock-up:



Electrically the pot should be nothing more than heating elements with a connection terminal. Right?

For manufacturing simplicity, I would not expect them to ever invent region-specific heating elements. All of the regional differences should be in that little control box; adapting AC to push an appropriate amount of current as the dial is turned.

...

You could get a step up transformer to change the 120 to 220 with a proper current rating.

A converter could be used for running 220 volt devices on 120v. I just assume that's a bad idea for high-wattage appliances.

...

Here are some 110v alternatives on Amazon:

LIVEN Electric Hot Pot with Grill

Electric Grill Indoor Hot Pot Multifunctional Non-Stick

The second one at 2400W might even trip a dedicated 120V 20 amp circuit breaker.

Thanks. I saw those and I had even suggested one of them to her, but she prefers one to match the style of the one in the screenshot she sent.

 

[Ichinisan]

Ha!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGyxpgo-YQE#t=15s
(at 15 seconds)

"120V 1300W easy use in American . It is not available for 220V market ,such as European Market ."

LOL! I wish. Also the link in the description links to an Amazon page for a completely different product. Why would an Alibaba video link to Amazon instead of Alibaba?

 

[nutxo]

nm

 

[stargazr]

IF you have an electrical device that can run on either voltage, there is an option for how it is wired. I would definitely not mess with electricity if I didn't understand it, especially for someone else.

 

[PowerEngineer]

Well... Yes, I suspect everything you say above is probably correct. If so, then presumably each of the heating elements is having 110V applied across it (each from a different hot leg to the neutral), and so changing the wiring in the control so that both feed off the single 110V hot leg could work. I'm not sure how the temperature control works and how it might be affected, but probably would be okay.

I understand the temptation to "give it a try", but suggest that temptation should be tempered by the inherent risks of fiddling with an electrical device that may be wired differently than we suspect. Especially a device designed to consume so much power and generate so much heat. To me, the risk seems greater than her perceived "style" benefit. My two cents...

 

[nakedfrog]

I don't think he's proposing to modify the existing 220V control, but rather sub in a 110V control from a different device.

 

[Red Squirrel]

You'd almost have to open it and see. If it's strictly electromechanical with no electronics I can't see why it wouldn't work, you just would not get as much chooch factor out of it.

If it's using split phase then you could just reqire to apply 120v across the proper elements. Then swap the plug for a split phase 240 (maybe twistlock? A regular oven plug seems overkill) and install the appropriate outlet.

Sounds like more work than just buying the proper UL listed version from a reputable retailer though. I'm sure there's got to be something at the store?

 

[Ichinisan]

I don't think he's proposing to modify the existing 220V control, but rather sub in a 110V control from a different device.

Yes. Exactly.

 

[nakedfrog]

I did find this:

 

[fralexandr]

Amazon.com : LIVEN Electric ShabuShabu Hot Pot with Grill- with BBQ Multifunctional Electric Skillet SK-J3201A, 1300W, Nonstick Coating, Perfect for 1 to 4 Person : Garden & Outdoor

Amazon.com : LIVEN Electric ShabuShabu Hot Pot with Grill- with BBQ Multifunctional Electric Skillet SK-J3201A, 1300W, Nonstick Coating, Perfect for 1 to 4 Person : Garden & Outdoor

www.amazon.com

$200 on amazon... Pretty pricey. The only other place i see it sold is sears/ebay for ~$120

 

[Arx Allemand]

A purely resistive load as demonstrated in that video above will run perfectly fine but at approximately half the wattage. No harm done. There is a youtuber by the name of Photonic Induction that shows what happens when you go the other way, sometimes pushing way more voltage! It's interesting, dangerous, and fun but best left to those in the know, figuratively speaking.

240V/230V has its advantages because you typically get more wattage out of a small(ish) cord. A typical 9A cord, for example, will run something that a 12 gauge cord on a 20A 120V circuit won't. And in the case with computer (switching) supplies, they are a few percent more efficient at the higher voltage.

The resistance coil will get hot even at 12V. Not enough to cook but could make a nice fanny heater for chilly days if one is so inclined. And if you sweat or piss on it, 12V is hardly enough to give you a harmful shock!

There's also a way to get 240V from normal 120V outlets in the home without even going in the panel. You just need to find two different circuits whose breakers are on opposing sides of the panel. You will measure 240V when measuring across the black conductors on each. There are plenty of guides online telling of mostly safe ways to do this. If you have space in the panel (two slots) you can install a double pole breaker and wire it. And TBH, there's really no excuse to use the two outlet method either if your panel is full because you can free up slots by changing a few single pole breakers to tandems. But if your panel is full perhaps you have other problems!?