*Update* Wood people... FINISHED!

[jmcoreymv]

Update 12/29/06:

I finished the patio cover with the help of a few friends. Took about 4 days to paint 2 coats on all the wood, 2 days to actually build the cover, and then a day for the lights and speakers. Bending the electrical pipe to fit around the house was pretty fun too. I put some plastic square feet on the posts to raise them about .75" off the ground to help prevent rot from water damage.

patio1.jpg
patio2.jpg
patio3.jpg
patio4.jpg
Electrical

/Update

Can someone explain to me what resawn lumber is? Im guessing it was put through the saw again at some point? But why?

 

[bctbct]

They use a special blade to cut it that gives it a rough texture. Cedar for fences and ext. trim is cut this way. Also many times ext. soffit board.

 

[jmcoreymv]

So theres no difference other than the rougher texture? I was pricing out materials for a new patio cover and I got a quote that was MUCH higher for resawn lumber (about 5x higher).

 

[dartworth]

what kind of wood?

 

[jmcoreymv]

Douglas Fir #2 (city permit guide recommends using it)

 

[bctbct]

It is usually demensional, meaning it actually measures 2"X4" etc instead of deducting the 1/2".

 

[Greenman]

Originally posted by: bctbct
It is usually demensional, meaning it actually measures 2"X4" etc instead of deducting the 1/2".

Thats "rough sawn" lumber, not resawn.

 

[Greenman]

Originally posted by: jmcoreymv
Douglas Fir #2 (city permit guide recommends using it)

What city? Around here it has to be Redwood or PT. Also #2DF is framing lumber, it will have large knots and wane, not a very good looking material unless you hand select each piece, and it doesn't do well in damp locations.

The resawn lumber might be s3s, that means only one surface is resawn, something you need to know before you buy it.

 

[jmcoreymv]

Originally posted by: Greenman

Originally posted by: jmcoreymv
Douglas Fir #2 (city permit guide recommends using it)

What city? Around here it has to be Redwood or PT. Also #2DF is framing lumber, it will have large knots and wane, not a very good looking material unless you hand select each piece, and it doesn't do well in damp locations.

Orange County, CA. So, it barely rains here (maybe a few days a year?) and when it does its usually light rain.

 

[JulesMaximus]

Sorry, I'm made of flesh and bone...can't help you.

 

[bctbct]

Originally posted by: Greenman

Originally posted by: bctbct
It is usually demensional, meaning it actually measures 2"X4" etc instead of deducting the 1/2".

Thats "rough sawn" lumber, not resawn.

Thanks for the input, two different terms used for the same thing.

 

[Greenman]

Originally posted by: jmcoreymv

Originally posted by: Greenman

Originally posted by: jmcoreymv
Douglas Fir #2 (city permit guide recommends using it)

What city? Around here it has to be Redwood or PT. Also #2DF is framing lumber, it will have large knots and wane, not a very good looking material unless you hand select each piece, and it doesn't do well in damp locations.

Orange County, CA. So, it barely rains here (maybe a few days a year?) and when it does its usually light rain.

If you could give me a few more details I could give you a bit more info.
Is it an open patio cover? Or will it be roofed over? What kind of spans are you looking at? Are you looking for cheap or nice?

btw, I'm a CA contractor.

 

[jmcoreymv]

Originally posted by: Greenman

Originally posted by: jmcoreymv

Originally posted by: Greenman

Originally posted by: jmcoreymv
Douglas Fir #2 (city permit guide recommends using it)

What city? Around here it has to be Redwood or PT. Also #2DF is framing lumber, it will have large knots and wane, not a very good looking material unless you hand select each piece, and it doesn't do well in damp locations.

Orange County, CA. So, it barely rains here (maybe a few days a year?) and when it does its usually light rain.

If you could give me a few more details I could give you a bit more info.
Is it an open patio cover? Or will it be roofed over? What kind of spans are you looking at? Are you looking for cheap or nice?

btw, I'm a CA contractor.

Thanks for the help!
Here's some pics of the model I made:
patio-1
patio-2
patio-3

I definitely don't want to use subpar materials, but I also don't need anything gold-plated.

 

[NoShangriLa]

resawn lumber are planks that come from antique/exotic reclaim wood beams.

Around my area resawn lumber tend to be old growth logging road logs, rail road ties, old wooden beams from decommission bridges, old barns, or old shipping containers.

I often seen 1 3/32"x8" red mahogany, teaks, and oak are use in old shipping containers.

 

[dartworth]

Nice model. Something like that, I would do with redwood, mahogany, or ironwood...something like that.

Pressure treated wood looks like ass...

 

[bctbct]

Before OP gets too confused lets set the record straight.

Resawn lumber typically refers to trees that are cut on a special saw with a special bevel blade producing a rough texture on the board. Think dog eared fence boards.

You can take a timber to a saw mill and they will resaw(n) it anyway you like.

OP has a quote for resawn(rough texture) lumber of the furr species. He is not purchasing reused lumber. Cost is higher because it is less in demand and I image the process is more expensive to produce the same amount of regular lumber.

 

[Greenman]

Redwood would be the way to go for that. If you don't mind tight knots check out Construction Heart Redwood. If knots bother you the next step up is A select. Red Ceder is another option, but I don't know if you can get it in SoCal, yello cedder is fulgy. DF just won't look good unless you hand selesc each piece and paint it.

I have no idea what NoShangriLa is talking about, but just so you're clear, resawn lumber is textured, most often on one face only, it's also called s3s (surfaced 3 sides). Rough sawn lumber is just that, rough. It has the same texture as resawn, but it's full thickness. A 2x4 will measure 2" by 4" instead of 1.5 x 3.5.

 

[jmcoreymv]

I've got some price quotes from a few different places which are wildly different. (This was all based on douglas fir re-sawn wood).

Local lumber yard: $1050 with plain green 2DF

Lowes: $750 with plain green 2DF

Home Depot: $300 but the guy wouldnt say anything about the moisture content of the wood so I'm guess it might be wet?

Seems like large price variations.

 

[MikeyIs4Dcats]

RESAWN lumber is that which is reclaimed from old boards (i.e. from barns, demolished structures, or even old lumber raised from the bottoms of lakes, etc.) This material is usually quite expensive. The reason for supplying this material is to obtain old-growth lumber. Before the era of heavy-deforestation, you could saw large timbers of pristine lumber from a tree. The trunks were large enough in diameter that timbers of enormous proportions could be milled. This material did not have the knot holes, checks, and other defects common in todays lumber. Why? Because lumber today is harvested at a much faster rate. The trees only get to a fraction of the diamter of the old-growth lumber did before being harvested. Because of the defects, modern lumber also generally has a lower bearing stress and capacity than old lumber. The amount of weight a 6x6 from 1906 was greater than the weight a 6x6 from 2006 can support.

ROUGH-SAWN lumber is lumber that is not sanded after being milled. This is the material you commonly see on fences, soffits, and other trim on some buildings.

They are totally unrelated.

Based on your model above (nice sketch-up work, BTW) and the following span calculation it would appear that a 2x10 WILL span the required distance for your carrying lintel. The span shown for the 2x8 rafters is borderline, but by placing 2 so close together, you are probably fine. The spans I ran are based upon using Select Structural Douglas Fir Larch. This material may not be available in your area (DFL is regional) and is likely NOT available at Home Depot. Most lumber sold by the big-box stores is #2 or better, which will not be sufficient.

Also, be aware that this material is not weatherproof. It should be stained or painted to resist rot. If you use treated lumber (the green stuff), you cannot paint it right away. It must be weathered for one season first (unless you want to go through an extensive process to paint it).

I would also recommend than instead of the 3-piece post you are showing that you use a 6x6 and carriage bolt the lintel beams through it. It will be much more attractive and less prone to rot over the long-term.

 

[bctbct]

Originally posted by: MikeyIs4Dcats
RESAWN lumber is that which is reclaimed from old boards (i.e. from barns, demolished structures, or even old lumber raised from the bottoms of lakes, etc.) This material is usually quite expensive. The reason for supplying this material is to obtain old-growth lumber. Before the era of heavy-deforestation, you could saw large timbers of pristine lumber from a tree. The trunks were large enough in diameter that timbers of enormous proportions could be milled. This material did not have the knot holes, checks, and other defects common in todays lumber. Why? Because lumber today is harvested at a much faster rate. The trees only get to a fraction of the diamter of the old-growth lumber did before being harvested. Because of the defects, modern lumber also generally has a lower bearing stress and capacity than old lumber. The amount of weight a 6x6 from 1906 was greater than the weight a 6x6 from 2006 can support.

ROUGH-SAWN lumber is lumber that is not sanded after being milled. This is the material you commonly see on fences, soffits, and other trim on some buildings.

They are totally unrelated.

Based on your model above (nice sketch-up work, BTW) and the following span calculation it would appear that a 2x10 WILL span the required distance for your carrying lintel. The span shown for the 2x8 rafters is borderline, but by placing 2 so close together, you are probably fine. The spans I ran are based upon using Select Structural Douglas Fir Larch. This material may not be available in your area (DFL is regional) and is likely NOT available at Home Depot. Most lumber sold by the big-box stores is #2 or better, which will not be sufficient.

Also, be aware that this material is not weatherproof. It should be stained or painted to resist rot. If you use treated lumber (the green stuff), you cannot paint it right away. It must be weathered for one season first (unless you want to go through an extensive process to paint it).

I would also recommend than instead of the 3-piece post you are showing that you use a 6x6 and carriage bolt the lintel beams through it. It will be much more attractive and less prone to rot over the long-term.

Salvaging a timber from a barn and having it resawn (re-sawn)into smaller beams or lumber is a different process than buying resawn lumber from your local lumber yard.

Resawn lumber as specified in this condition is a technique of taking a new log and cutting it a special way. An angled bandsaw is used to produce a coarse textured pattern.

The best way to describe this pattern to a novice is to compare it to a cedar dog eared fence board. However the texture is slightly different. It is less "fuzzy" and has more of a natural log appearance.

It is often used in house siding and shake shingles.

 

[Squisher]

When I've ever heard the term resaw, it was referring to people buying rough sawn lumber in bulk (like 8"X10"X8') and then resawing it as you so chose, then usually planing it for use.

I believe Jets 14" and bigger models are called resaws noting that they're large enough and powerful enough to accomplish this task regularly.

 

[jmcoreymv]

^

 

[MrChad]

Looks great! Nice work.

 

[microAmp]

Very nice

 

[ArchCenturion]

Originally posted by: microAmp
Very nice

Good job jordan, did you tell them how ArchCenturion had to get up there and nail down all the slats cuz you wouldn't go up there?