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*UPDATE Solved!!* Skoorb + Barton [2500+] + burning smell = destroyed CPU?

StageLeft

No Lifer
*SOLVED*

Thanks for all the ideas and myocardia for first bringing to my attention the possibility of the PSU being bad. I thought it a real stretch, I'll be honest, but I will never again preach the adequacy of a cheap PSU. I guess I should check in BIOS to see whether my mobo is going with bad voltages, but I highly doubt it. I expect this current powersource to run fine. What a cheap piece of crap the other one was! Now to see if I can get these people to return it. I told the tech that I was ocing (oops!), but a mildly overclocked cpu should really not overstress a so-called 350 W powersupply. My new PSU is about twice as heavy as that other one.

--

Background: 3 weeks ago I bought a Barton 2500+. I had problems getting it to overclock properly. I later narrowed these down to an exceptionally poor HSF grease application (I was using the stock stuff, and when I took the HSF on Sunday I found literally parts of the CPU that were bare from grease). I put some coolermaster grease on last night, which took the full load temp down by around 8 celcius, and let me clock this up to 200 FSB with total stability at 1.725.

However, later in the evening with P95 running and me listening to some music and typing out a message my computer shut down. No beeps, no nothing. Just shut down. I immediately tried to reboot and about 3 seconds in to the reboot process it shut down again. The system is now lifeless. Whenever I try and turn it on I get a flicker of life to the mobo (NF7-S) (like the optical outlet), and the CPU fan spins for a fraction of a second, and that's it.

I did notice a mild burning smell right after the system died last night. The CPU visually looks fine, but I guess I killed it didn't I? Note that the thing was definitely running under 54 celcius at the time (since I have an alarm to go off if it hits that). There were no Prime 95 errors. I simply had a system shutdown and a burning smell.

I guess I damaged the CPU with the poor cooling it was having from the three weeks prior 🙁

Well, now on to a mobile 2500+.

*UPDATE* Myocardia also suspected PSU. I ran home at lunch and grabbed it and brought it into the store to have it tested. The guy confirmed that it doesn't work. He said that "the fan won't even spin". Remember it does work a bit, since the mobo lights do shine. He said that he was almost certain that my mobo had short circuited and had caused the PSU to go bad. Thusly, I would not get a refund on my PSU. I suspect that this is not the case, so I went to Compusa and paid $60 (listed at $69 but the price on the shelf was wrong, so I got it at that. Newegg sells for $50) (my generic was $20) for an Antec 350W PSU. I know I can get better online but I can't wait for this to come in the mail. I will try it later.

Question: Is there a chance that my mobo killed itself and, in turn, killed the PSU? Since the mobo lights do work and it does try to turn itself on I'm led to suspect that the PSU has a failsafe in it that says that if its fan doesn't spin it won't do anything, and that's probably why it's not powering up. Or, maybe not the fan - maybe it can only trickle power, and the main unit in it is buggared.

Anyway, if the PSU is the only cause of concern here I guess my history of using generic PSUs has caught up with me, and I'll consider it a lesson learned. I will also need to get my money back! Is that PSU I bought any good in terms of what is likely to be available locally? Some store, for $40, had Antec ones in plain old boxes, but this one is the Smartblue with the pretty blue LEDs.
 
Originally posted by: Monoman
you may look to see if it's the PSU not the proc.. a PSU can stink fairly bad when they go....
Well the smell wasn't horrific - just a subtle, but definite, smell, and then it went and I couldn't track the source. I will say that the red light is still on on the mobo, and the network socket is still lit up. When I hit power I see the optical socket get power and then something somewhere, be it PSU, mobo chipset, or cpu (hopefully the latter), causes it to all bail and not even begin to properly bootup.
 
Why a mobile 2500+?

The reason I am asking is I'm looking to upgrade from my 1.2Ghz T-bird and was looking at the Barton 2500+ and a nForce2 board.
 
Originally posted by: Quixfire
Why a mobile 2500+?

The reason I am asking is I'm looking to upgrade from my 1.2Ghz T-bird and was looking at the Barton 2500+ and a nForce2 board.
By all accounts the mobiles, though a bit more expensive, are wildly better at overclocking. Their default voltage is much lower and many people are OCing them to speeds that the desktop can't really hope of hitting. Also, they are not clock locked!

 
Originally posted by: Skoorb
Originally posted by: Quixfire
Why a mobile 2500+?

The reason I am asking is I'm looking to upgrade from my 1.2Ghz T-bird and was looking at the Barton 2500+ and a nForce2 board.
By all accounts the mobiles, though a bit more expensive, are wildly better at overclocking. Their default voltage is much lower and many people are OCing them to speeds that the desktop can't really hope of hitting. Also, they are not clock locked!
Thanks for the quick reply. I'm not into overclocking my cpu, but if the mobile runs cooler I'm all for that. 😀

 
Originally posted by: Quixfire
Originally posted by: Skoorb
Originally posted by: Quixfire
Why a mobile 2500+?

The reason I am asking is I'm looking to upgrade from my 1.2Ghz T-bird and was looking at the Barton 2500+ and a nForce2 board.
By all accounts the mobiles, though a bit more expensive, are wildly better at overclocking. Their default voltage is much lower and many people are OCing them to speeds that the desktop can't really hope of hitting. Also, they are not clock locked!
Thanks for the quick reply. I'm not into overclocking my cpu, but if the mobile runs cooler I'm all for that. 😀
It should run cooler, but if you don't change the FSB or clock rate it will default to a 133 FSB - which is 33 mhz lower than a standard 2500+.
 
Perhaps the smell was just burnt TIM? One time I came home and my computer was off with the alerm sounding so I checked inside, was a slight smell, but the CPU was just fine so I figured some of the grease had burnt.
 
Originally posted by: Vegetto
Perhaps the smell was just burnt TIM? One time I came home and my computer was off with the alerm sounding so I checked inside, was a slight smell, but the CPU was just fine so I figured some of the grease had burnt.
Nope, the damn thing doesn't turn on - so the burning was something burning that shouldn't!
 
Do you have a VOM to check the voltages on all the lines ? I would suspect a PSU before the CPU based on what you have posted thus far.
 
Originally posted by: Markfw900
Do you have a VOM to check the voltages on all the lines ? I would suspect a PSU before the CPU based on what you have posted thus far.

Yeah. I'd certainly at least try another PSU from another PC first.
 
Another thing you can try is clear the CMOS on the board (not through the keyboard) and see if that works.

edit: Never mind, looks like you found the problem. Good luck.
 
Originally posted by: GR8Madmax
Another thing you can try is clear the CMOS on the board (not through the keyboard) and see if that works.
Good idea - it was the first thing I tried last night 🙂

I'm glad the CPU hasn't died, because if it's not been screwed I know that _I_ didn't break this, but it was either a mobo issue (unlikely, but still not my fault), or the PSU. I bet it's the latter. That's what I get for being a cheapskate!

 
I would say the chances are good that your motherboard may survive. But this is another reason why when I DO overclock, I only up the speed, never the voltages, to take no chance of burning CPU's. Good luck, and keep us informed.

BTW I live my Antec true power 430.....
 
Originally posted by: Skoorb
Background: 3 weeks ago I bought a Barton 2500+. I had problems getting it to overclock properly. I later narrowed these down to an exceptionally poor HSF grease application (I was using the stock stuff, and when I took the HSF on Sunday I found literally parts of the CPU that were bare from grease). I put some coolermaster grease on last night, which took the full load temp down by around 8 celcius, and let me clock this up to 200 FSB with total stability at 1.725.

However, later in the evening with P95 running and me listening to some music and typing out a message my computer shut down. No beeps, no nothing. Just shut down. I immediately tried to reboot and about 3 seconds in to the reboot process it shut down again. The system is now lifeless. Whenever I try and turn it on I get a flicker of life to the mobo (NF7-S) (like the optical outlet), and the CPU fan spins for a fraction of a second, and that's it.

I did notice a mild burning smell right after the system died last night. The CPU visually looks fine, but I guess I killed it didn't I? Note that the thing was definitely running under 54 celcius at the time (since I have an alarm to go off if it hits that). There were no Prime 95 errors. I simply had a system shutdown and a burning smell.

I guess I damaged the CPU with the poor cooling it was having from the three weeks prior 🙁

Well, now on to a mobile 2500+.

*UPDATE* Myocardia also suspected PSU. I ran home at lunch and grabbed it and brought it into the store to have it tested. The guy confirmed that it doesn't work. He said that "the fan won't even spin". Remember it does work a bit, since the mobo lights do shine. He said that he was almost certain that my mobo had short circuited and had caused the PSU to go bad. Thusly, I would not get a refund on my PSU. I suspect that this is not the case, so I went to Compusa and paid $60 (listed at $69 but the price on the shelf was wrong, so I got it at that. Newegg sells for $50) (my generic was $20) for an Antec 350W PSU. I know I can get better online but I can't wait for this to come in the mail. I will try it later.

Question: Is there a chance that my mobo killed itself and, in turn, killed the PSU? Since the mobo lights do work and it does try to turn itself on I'm led to suspect that the PSU has a failsafe in it that says that if its fan doesn't spin it won't do anything, and that's probably why it's not powering up. Or, maybe not the fan - maybe it can only trickle power, and the main unit in it is buggared.

Anyway, if the PSU is the only cause of concern here I guess my history of using generic PSUs has caught up with me, and I'll consider it a lesson learned. I will also need to get my money back! Is that PSU I bought any good in terms of what is likely to be available locally? Some store, for $40, had Antec ones in plain old boxes, but this one is the Smartblue with the pretty blue LEDs.
Skoorb, I would just keep it. You only paid $4 more for it at CompUSA. That psu will work just fine for you, unless you decide later to switch to the darkside (P4's need alot more 12v juice than that SL350 puts out.) AND, I doubt very seriously that your motherboard ruined your psu. If it did, it's the first time I've ever heard of something like that happening. I would put that psu in and immediately boot to the bios, and see what all of the rails are running at. If they are all running at spec, then it isn't possible that your board was at fault for the generic psu going out. That means that you just smoked it by overclocking, and raising your voltages! Oh, one time I had a UPS go bad, and in turn it smoked my psu because it was still supplying power, but since it was undervolting all the time, it made the psu draw too much current, just like what happened to your old 420 watt generic.
 
bump, since AT's servers didn't move this back to the front page

edit: Okay, my dumba$$ mistake.😕 I was looking for it to be on the overclocking page.😀
 
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