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*update* dorm room door fixed.

N

NeoPTLD

Platinum Member
Well we were goofing around in my dorm room and put a small hole on our door. The door is made with a panel on each side and support in between. Sort of like honeycomb structure except the center part isn't arranged in honeycomb pattern.

The hole is about 1" wide by 3" high on inside panel.

*update*

I learned that university's housing repair uses a piece of laminate wood to repair it, but I couldn't find any at Home Depot or Lowe's, so I glued a piece of sheet metal painted the color of door. Before that, I printed a piece of paper with a color similar to the door and glued it on there.

Now, I have lots of 2,500 psi strengh epoxy left. Tell me something fun I can do with this around the school 😀
 
Get a doorskin veneer from Home Depot and trim it to fit the entire door. Just glue that sucka on. Doesn't have to be perfect, it's a freakin dorm door. Did the hole go through both sides?
 
Originally posted by: huesmann
Get a doorskin veneer from Home Depot and trim it to fit the entire door. Just glue that sucka on. Doesn't have to be perfect, it's a freakin dorm door. Did the hole go through both sides?
Click to expand...

I have seen other doors that are patched up. Is there anyway short of having to bring in a huge piece of board?

Pics:

oops
omg oh NO!O! AIE1!
 
I sold doors for 3 years at my old Job (millwork @ Home Depot.) There is exactly 1 way to fix that door. Buy a new one. They only cost about $30.

The problem is putting the hinge cutouts in the door. There is no standard placement, so you will have to do it yourself. One company that sells through home depot will do it for you, but it costs $45, and takes 4 to 6 weeks. (company = Milliken)

And before you ask, no you can not just buy a door with a frame and not use the frame. The hinges are in different spots.

By the way, that is a RHIS Birch Skinned HC door. Looks to be a 1 3/4" thick, which would actually make it an exterior grade door. (at least by OLD codes). If it is 1 3/8" thick it is a current grade interior door. If it is 1 3/4" door, it is exterior grade.

Of course all 1 3/4" thick doors nowadays are SC. Next to impossible to find a HC one for a decent amount of money.
 
Originally posted by: FoBoT
lots of toothpaste? wood colored toothpaste? 😕
Click to expand...

Buy a can of wood filler, and the appropriate color stain. Slap that filler in there, let it harden, and stain. Then use a pencil and carefully, patiently, draw in some fake wood grain. If it's a dark stain, the results can be very good.
 
Is it painted? If it is, the patch job can be covered up by painting the entire door. If it's stained, you ain't gonna hide it.

edit:: oops, just saw your pics. You're screwed.
Unless you can make a friend in industrial arts....
 
Originally posted by: Thegonagle
Originally posted by: FoBoT
lots of toothpaste? wood colored toothpaste? 😕
Click to expand...

Buy a can of wood filler, and the appropriate color stain. Slap that filler in there, let it harden, and stain. Then use a pencil and carefully, patiently, draw in some fake wood grain. If it's a dark stain, the results can be very good.
Click to expand...

Did you look at the links? It is a golden staned door. No way in HELL of even coming close in color/look to the original.

Now you could patch it with some plastic wood with a filler behind it and PAINT the inside of the door, but I assume that is against school rules.
 
Originally posted by: Evadman

Did you look at the links? It is a golden staned door. No way in HELL of even coming close in color/look to the original.

Now you could patch it with some plastic wood with a filler behind it and PAINT the inside of the door, but I assume that is against school rules.
Click to expand...

Well, I did now. I guess that peel and stick deal will have to do.
 
Put some backer in there then fill flush with your choice of putty/whatever, then paint a dark brown. Act like it was that way when you moved in. (See how the other repairs were done and mimic those)
 
There is a different patch on the door already.

This is a friggin dorm room. It doesn't need to be perfect. The color has to be approximately light brown.
color aside, how do I go about physically plugging in the hole in a way better than taping a 3x5 card on top of it?
 
Originally posted by: Thegonagle
Originally posted by: Evadman

Did you look at the links? It is a golden staned door. No way in HELL of even coming close in color/look to the original.

Now you could patch it with some plastic wood with a filler behind it and PAINT the inside of the door, but I assume that is against school rules.
Click to expand...

Well, I did now. I guess that peel and stick deal will have to do.
Click to expand...

The veneer is $29 for a 24" x 96" piece. You will need 2 for the door, an iron to apply it, sandpaper to rough up the poly, a trimmer to cut it after applied, and you will still have to stain it when you are done. Odds are it will be noticed in 10 seconds on the walkthrough in the end anyway. All you did was waste $70 and 2 days of your time.

Trust me, I had 4-5 customers a day ask me about this crap, and every single one thought they knew better then the guy who sells them for a living. Hell, most of them didn't even know that a door can swing 2 different ways :Q. Askt hem which way it swings and they will sit there for 20 minutes doing circles in the middle of the isle pulling on imaginary doorknobs. Everyone who didn't follow my directions came back for a new door sooner or later. Don't think I forgot either. Most of them got a comment from me when they were buying their new door 😛

Helpful Door Hints:
1. Always replace one screw in each hinge with a screw 3" long on the jamb side.
2. Interior door handles are 2 3/8" from edge to center of hole. Exterior are 2 3/4"
3. Locked Pella Proline sliding doors can be opened from the outside with no tools in less than 3 seconds.
4. Most interior hinges are 3" with a 5/8" radius hinge.
5. If the screws on a hinge keep coming out, coat a golf tee in woodglue and hit it in the screw hole. After drying, reinsert screw.
6. Your wall is 4 9/16" thick unless your builder was a cheap bastard. then it is 3 9/16".
7. Garage doors must be rated to 90 minutes, frame to 20. (I never got that one) In Chicagoland.
8. Front doors must be 36" wide so an gurney can fit out of it.
9. 24, 28, 30, 32 and 36" are the most popular door sizes.
10. Doors are 80" tall unless your builder was an idiot.
 
Originally posted by: NeoPTLD
There is a different patch on the door already.

This is a friggin dorm room. It doesn't need to be perfect. The color has to be approximately light brown.
color aside, how do I go about physically plugging in the hole in a way better than taping a 3x5 card on top of it?
Click to expand...

1. Fill Hole with newspaper.
2. put piece of wire mesh inside hole over newspaper.
3. Fill hole with drywall compund.
4. sand
5. bring piece of busted door to favorite paint place. have them mix up a quart of paint in that color.
6. coat with at least 4 coats of paint
7. lightly sand with 200 grit sandpaper in direction of grain, and feather edges of paint.
8. using spray shelac, spray over paint so ti looks like the repair was made a long time ago, and door was shelaced since then.
9. pray no one notices.
 
Originally posted by: HappyPuppy
Just fiberglass it and slap on some paint. This is not rocket science.
Click to expand...

He is asking how to fix an INTERIOR door. Mixing fiberglass and resin is WAY over his head. You may as well ask him to get in his car and drive to Greenland. 😛

Nice DP 3 minutes apart HappyPuppy 😛
 
Originally posted by: Evadman
Originally posted by: Thegonagle
Originally posted by: Evadman

Did you look at the links? It is a golden staned door. No way in HELL of even coming close in color/look to the original.

Now you could patch it with some plastic wood with a filler behind it and PAINT the inside of the door, but I assume that is against school rules.
Click to expand...

Well, I did now. I guess that peel and stick deal will have to do.
Click to expand...

The veneer is $29 for a 24" x 96" piece. You will need 2 for the door, an iron to apply it, sandpaper to rough up the poly, a trimmer to cut it after applied, and you will still have to stain it when you are done. Odds are it will be noticed in 10 seconds on the walkthrough in the end anyway. All you did was waste $70 and 2 days of your time.

Trust me, I had 4-5 customers a day ask me about this crap, and every single one thought they knew better then the guy who sells them for a living. Hell, most of them didn't even know that a door can swing 2 different ways :Q. Askt hem which way it swings and they will sit there for 20 minutes doing circles in the middle of the isle pulling on imaginary doorknobs. Everyone who didn't follow my directions came back for a new door sooner or later. Don't think I forgot either. Most of them got a comment from me when they were buying their new door 😛

Helpful Door Hints:
1. Always replace one screw in each hinge with a screw 3" long on the jamb side.
2. Interior door handles are 2 3/8" from edge to center of hole. Exterior are 2 3/4"
3. Locked Pella Proline sliding doors can be opened from the outside with no tools in less than 3 seconds.
4. Most interior hinges are 3" with a 5/8" radius hinge.
5. If the screws on a hinge keep coming out, coat a golf tee in woodglue and hit it in the screw hole. After drying, reinsert screw.
6. Your wall is 4 9/16" thick unless your builder was a cheap bastard. then it is 3 9/16".
7. Garage doors must be rated to 90 minutes, frame to 20. (I never got that one) In Chicagoland.
8. Front doors must be 36" wide so an gurney can fit out of it.
9. 24, 28, 30, 32 and 36" are the most popular door sizes.
10. Doors are 80" tall unless your builder was an idiot.
Click to expand...

You can stop quoting me now. It's not my door. I've never even put a hole in a door, although I did once repair a dark-stained one with the method I described above. The results were quite good, as you would never notice the repair if you weren't looking directly at it. That's why I offered the the suggestion.
 
Originally posted by: Thegonagle
You can stop quoting me now. It's not my door. I've never even put a hole in a door, although I did once repair a dark-stained one with the method I described above. The results were quite good, as you would never notice the repair if you weren't looking directly at it. That's why I offered the the suggestion.
Click to expand...

Alrighty.
 
glue a peice of paper to it and paint it the color of the door... no one will notice.. LOL or just patch it with tape like the hole in the wall there

 
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