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*UPDATE 8/5/10* Does anybody know exactly how safety inspection checks e-brake?

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No Lifer
Like many I never use the e-brake on my van but it's needed to pass inspection. Mazda wants at least $400 to repair it, blaming it on a stretched cable (I'm not convinced at all that's it). The ebrake does not grab enough to stop the wheels unless it's adjusted so much at the front that, when released, it actually rubs.

I'm trying to think of a way to pass inspection without paying $400 or more on something I will never use and I have some ideas, but when mechanics generally check these, how do they do it? Do they simply pull up to ensure there is tension or do they raise the vehicle, make sure the wheels are turning nicely, then crank up the e-brake 6 clicks, then make sure they're not turning? The specifics are of relevance here 🙂

Further, the mechanic at Mazda hinted that there may be an insert I can get for the ebrake lever to increase the travel for the same distance pulled. Basically something sits between the cable and the semi-circular guide it's in to increase leverage on it, thus pulling more cable for the same distance of lever. Do such things exist? I could not find one in autozone.

*UPDATE 8/5/2010*

I wanted to give these brakes one more shot. I still did not readily agree that $400 to replace cables on an ebrake that is never used made sense. I took the wheels off both sides, adjusted further, and now my ebrake works! Instead of $400 to not even fix the problem I spent 90 minutes. I cannot adjust the right side properly; it does sound bad if I adjust it enough for complete engagement as grippy as the left, but I do have an ebrake again and I think it would pass inspection. I still don't know why these brakes by themselves started squeaking but it's been several days now and no problems.

So basically Skoorb + AT Garage > Mazda.
 
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There should be a nut/adjuster you tighten to adjust it. Not sure why it would rub if it was adjusted correctly.

But when I did Inspections I set the brake and put the car in gear and tap the gas, a little. The car can move a little but should stop real quick on its own after I let off the gas. Some just put it in gear and see if it still moves.
But the brakes can;t rub/drag after I turn the brake off.

And not sure what the tech was talking about so can;t help there. Only time I have replaced the e-brake cable was when it was broke or frozen. Never had one I could not adjust. But they are not a common item that needs replacing, at least in my exp.
 
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They usually set it, put the car in gear and see if it moves. Then they may also tap the gas to see if it holds or stops after lurching forward.
 
Thanks guys!

It's a strange issue. Basically the e-brake, which is a drum design only for the e-brake, started making a very bad sound a couple of weeks ago, a wicked squeaking. I never use them but they somehow started to rub (even though brakes are a couple of years old and there was no new tension introduced to the system--no idea how they started to rub!). So I replaced the rotors and disc pads. However, the drums themselves still squeak. If I release their tension, either via the drum screw at the back or at the lever's cable, so that there is no drum contact then I have no sound. However, I also cannot get the brakes to engage enough to stop the car, even when pulled up all the way.

I brought this symptom to Mazda, they tried adjusting and now conclude my ebrake cable is stretched. However, a) I never use the thing so how can it have stretched and b) if it was stretched how is it this sound started before I touched the brakes at all; what was introduced into the system to rub?

I've rubbed away all rust I can see, btw.
 
Some of them have an adjuster inside the drum assembly as well. A few old timers told me to back up slowly and "fully set" the ebrake so the self adjuster will grab and adjust itself. No idea on the validity of that claim, at least on newer vehicles but it did work!!
 
Yeah. Try pulling the brake lever up as far as you can, then releasing it three or four times, then, as Gilbot suggests, back up and pull the parking brake on to slow or stop the car.
 
Thanks. i think that adjustment technique--that I did not apply but is real--is why the e-brake feels better after mazda took a look, but still I think they've done all the typical adjustment approaches. I wish there was a way to generate more travel with the lever pull, though.
 
You don;t need more travel, you just need to have it adjusted correct.
It could also be one side needs less adjustment then the other. So if you adjust it to work it drags and if you take it off to not drag it will not grab. So adjust till both sides hold then adjust the drum itself when the brake is off to not drag.
 
You don;t need more travel, you just need to have it adjusted correct.
It could also be one side needs less adjustment then the other. So if you adjust it to work it drags and if you take it off to not drag it will not grab. So adjust till both sides hold then adjust the drum itself when the brake is off to not drag.
This is basically how I did it a couple of years ago, going back and forth between the lever and the actual brake itself, slapping the rotor back on and I got it pretty good.

But none of this explains why the ebrake started rubbing of its own volition a couple of weeks ago and I do think that's a root cause to this issue, regardless of the proper way to adjust it. And I assure you the handbrake was not touched, it just simply started rubbing for fun.
 
Could be something is dragging inside the drum, the adjuster has gone bad, etc... Sounds like more a drum issue then the e-brake?
 
Could be something is dragging inside the drum, the adjuster has gone bad, etc... Sounds like more a drum issue then the e-brake?
Yeah I am inclined to agree. Without any change to the lever and its cables this strange rubbing began and when you lift the vehicle and spin the wheel you can hear it.
 
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