Unofficial Soltek SL-K8AN2E-GR thread

[Blammo300]

I have been running my SL-K8AN2E-GR and 3000+ OC'ed at 2.4 ghz with 1 stick of Crucial 512 PC 4000. It has been working great since I bought it. I just purchased another stick of 512 for my system.

What Bios changes do I need to make to keep a similar speed OC and run 1:1?

 

[kvndoom]

For persons asking about CPU temps, the Soltek board is DEFINITELY reporting lower than actual temps. My mobile 3000 @ 2.2GHz was reporting mid 40's under load on the Soltek board. When I moved the CPU to a DFI Lanparty NF3, I was getting mid to high 50's under load with the same CPU / Vcore / GHz / cooler, which are more consistent with what I would expect under those conditions. So between the 1.55v Vcore limitation and the piss-poor temperature reporting, I cannot recommend this board anymore unless Soltek does some major revising.

 

[cyberknight]

if you bought this < $100 mobo for overclocking, you're a fool.

 

[Megatomic]

# of people with unoverclocked systems >>>>> # of people with overclocked systems
# of people who monitor CPU temp ~ .01% most don't care as long as it's stable

This board has a huge market and it's a solid seller at NewEgg. I think it's a winner.

ps - my figures are not accurate (I pulled them out of my ass) but they are representative.

 

[CraigRT]

I completely agree with you Megatomic

 

[Massive Overkill]

Originally posted by: cyberknight
if you bought this < $100 mobo for overclocking, you're a fool.

Guess I'm a fool. I guess my overclock sucks eh?

 

[Brule]

Originally posted by: CraigRT
I completely agree with you Megatomic

:thumbsup:

No problems from mine with minor OC'ing and the price was right. (don't need to OC really, but at least it's there)

 

[Megatomic]

Guys, I've had my Soltek board for a few months now and today is the first day I've used my headphones (Philips cans, pretty decent) with the onboard sound and it's not too bad. KOTOR2 was average but listening to my 256kbps mp3's is a treat.

 

[CraigRT]

Originally posted by: Megatomic
Guys, I've had my Soltek board for a few months now and today is the first day I've used my headphones (Philips cans, pretty decent) with the onboard sound and it's not too bad. KOTOR2 was average but listening to my 256kbps mp3's is a treat.

I am using the onboard audio as well since my AV-710 is still out for RMA, and it works just fine. But hey, I've used the onboard audio on my last 4 Solteks even if it was only for a day, and they've all seemed fine to me.

 

[Megatomic]

I've been using the onboard sound for a few weeks after I sold my Audigy 2 ZS Gamer, but the days of onboard are numbered. I have a TBSC on it's way to me (my favorite add-in sound card of all time). It's gonna be like getting reunited with an old flame.

 

[kmiller]

I need help in setting us RAID.
My main boot drive is on the nvidia serial 1 port.
I have two IDE drives I want to set-up as a RAID.
Do I set the two IDE drives on the Promise IDE? I tried this & in the Promise RAID config. it shows the drive but will not let me set-up RAID.

Do I need the enable the BIOS IDE RAID option?

I have enabled the Promise RAID option in the BIOS.

 

[Kailen77]

Maybe someone can help me in this thread.

I updated my bios on my 2 comps today both have k8tpro-939 mobo. Anyways 1 of them update was sucessful and the second said it was successful and said hit F1 so I did. My second comp just beeps and shows C1 error since I updated. Will not post or anything it just started beeping after I hit F1 and will do nothing else.

 

[Massive Overkill]

You're lucky (you may not think so but you are) that you have two identical motherboards. What you can do is boot your good motherboard, load the flash program and then swap your BIOS chips (with power still on....be VERY careful), execute your flash, and voilla, you should have a repaired BIOS. Power down and swap the chip back out.

You want to research to make sure my steps are correct, but basically hot flashing is the easiest most viable way to repair a corrupt BIOS.

 

[Megatomic]

I have a few overclocking questions to ask you guys. I have a 3400+ C0, it's defaults are 11x200MHz, and I'm using the stock retail . My mobo will run at HTT=1000 (5x200) 100% stable. My RAM is GEIL Value Ultra PC3200, 2x512MB. They are good to go at stock Vdimm with timings of 2.5-3-3-11 up to 210MHz.

So I want to try to overclock the CPU and leave the RAM as close as possible to 210MHz so I don't have to bump up the voltage on the modules. What I'd love to see happen is me being able to get to 250MHz FSB with HTT at 4. Would my best bet be to set the memory to run on the 166MHz divider? What final RAM bus freq. would I have if I set CPU overclock to 250MHz with the RAM divider on 166MHz?

Sorry to ask such basic questions but I haven't tried to overclock this system before and I don't really know how it works. It's a lot different that AthlonXP overclocking on NF2 boards... Thanks for any help.

 

[krose]

If you can run at 1000 HTT you are lucky. At 250x10 with the 166 divider your RAM will be about 208. If that is not stable please try HTT multi of 3 because HTT of 750 vs. 1000 makes hardly any difference, if any at all, and then only in benchmarks. You will not see a difference in everyday use.

 

[kvndoom]

Originally posted by: cyberknight
if you bought this < $100 mobo for overclocking, you're a fool.

I'm a FOOL for wanting accurate sensor readings and voltage adustments that I can find in a $75 Chaintech board (which overclocks like a beast for a lot less money)? I'm a FOOL for expecting to get what I paid money for? Your logic is foolish, not mine. If higher price was invariably equal to higher performance, I'd go out right now and buy some $400 wooden volume control knobs to make my stereo sound better.

 

[VVarewolf]

Originally posted by: kvndoom
I'm a FOOL for wanting accurate sensor readings and voltage adustments that I can find in a $75 Chaintech board (which overclocks like a beast for a lot less money)? I'm a FOOL for expecting to get what I paid money for? Your logic is foolish, not mine. If higher price was invariably equal to higher performance, I'd go out right now and buy some $400 wooden volume control knobs to make my stereo sound better.

Heh, I like that bro...right on!

 

[Brule]

Originally posted by: Megatomic
I've been using the onboard sound for a few weeks after I sold my Audigy 2 ZS Gamer, but the days of onboard are numbered. I have a TBSC on it's way to me (my favorite add-in sound card of all time). It's gonna be like getting reunited with an old flame.

How is the TBSC card working for you Megatomic? I replaced mine with a Chaintech av-710 and it's working much better with the board. Onboard sounded very flat and had a bit of static which became too annoying.

 

[strend]

Onboard temp sens is never accurate. If your really that concerned with your temps, shove a diode in your heatsink. That goes for ANY mainboard.

 

[Megatomic]

Originally posted by: Brule

Originally posted by: Megatomic
I've been using the onboard sound for a few weeks after I sold my Audigy 2 ZS Gamer, but the days of onboard are numbered. I have a TBSC on it's way to me (my favorite add-in sound card of all time). It's gonna be like getting reunited with an old flame.

How is the TBSC card working for you Megatomic? I replaced mine with a Chaintech av-710 and it's working much better with the board. Onboard sounded very flat and had a bit of static which became too annoying.

I actually pulled it again, I'll be putting it into my wife's KT266A based system soon. I didn't like how the drivers wouldn't install for the gameport. I'm using an Audigy Gamer right now instead.

 

[lucasetor]

Seems like this forum is dead, but I have a problem guys, and I hope someone will surface to help me out. I have this motherboard coupled with an AMD 64 3400+. Ive been running it with 512 MB of Patriot extreme performance DDR400(3200) RAM. However, I decided to upgrade and bought another 512 MB stick of the exact same RAM. Well problems began from there. Both sticks work in each DIMM slot so I know there are no defects on either sticks of RAM nor the slots. Unfortunately, the two sticks do not work together. I get a RAM error beep when I startup, preventing bootup. I reset BIOS to optimal settings and still no bootup with both sticks of RAM. I wonder if this is a known problem and if so, or not, someone here can provide some suggestions. I will greatly appreciate it. Thanks

 

[furballi]

Try bumping the RAM timing to 2.5-3-3-8. Did you rum MEMTEST?

 

[lucasetor]

How do I do that. I have no idea how to alter memory settings and such. Considering the fact that I can only run one memory stick of 512 MB at a time, will it be possible to do this and have it take effect when i insert two at a time, because as I mentioned whenever I place both memory sticks in, the computer does not post.

 

[lucasetor]

New problem "guys'. I got the two sticks working but now, my sound does not work. Can anyone provide some suggestions? Thanks.

 

[erndawg]

Q15 on my K8AN2e runs very hot.
Can someone place their finger on Q15 of a K8AN2E MOBO? Q15 is located a bit below the CMOS battery. It is ~ 3/16 " square, lies flat on the MOBO, has three legs, and a silkscreen marking next to it indicates Q15. Mine gets very hot. I cannot keep my finger on it for more than a few seconds. It is not heatsinked, except through the board. I measure on each leg (left to right) from ground: 4.4, 3.4, 1.6 VDC. I'm wondering if this is normal, as I'm trying to troubleshoot my no POST rig that failed after 6 months. Thanks for your help.