Two sheets of drywall? For music room.

[TechBoyJK]

We bought a house, and the previous owner had framed up, rather poorly, the outer walls of the basement. It's not so bad we can't use it, but some of the studs aren't the same distance and it's just overall a rough job. Too much infrastructure and power/water lines are using the framing for support, and it would be a budget buster to tear it all out.

So it's bad, just not bad enough to justify tearing out and starting over.

We're putting up drywall and one side of the basement will be a music room. I'm wanting to deaden the sound as much as possible, and I've read that 2 sheets of drywall can really
help.

I'm thinking this would be a good idea, as we could use the first layer to smooth out any blemishes caused by the poor framing job (I expect creases and such in the drywall that mud won't fix). Plus it would help provide a nicer acoustical environment.
Planning on 2 layers of thick, mold resistant drywall.

Thinking of using this stuff.

http://www.lowes.com/pd/Continental...ft-x-8-ft-Actual-0-5-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft/3032546

 

[Aikouka]

You can probably save a little bit of money by not going with the mold-resistant stuff. I don't see why you'd need it in a music room. Have you considered something like Roxul? It costs more, but it might save you having to deal with doubling the drywall.

Also, what are you using as a guide for putting the stuff up? I want to redo some of the drywall in the kitchen (mostly so I can get a good look at the insulation quality and get some good outlet/utility boxes in there). I've looked at a lot of different guides, but I still feel a bit timid about it all.

 

[TechBoyJK]

You can probably save a little bit of money by not going with the mold-resistant stuff. I don't see why you'd need it in a music room.

Also, have you considered something like Roxul? It costs more, but it might save you having to deal with doubling the drywall.

It's in the basement. County code requires mold resistant drywall in basement.

We decided, for various reasons, not to put any insulation in the walls. We don't really need insulation because the foundation is really well done. Home inspector even pulled temps and said the foundation was done well and said expensive insulation wouldn't make much difference. It would make a difference, but not enough to justify the cost. Can't use fiberglass, period. So we'd have to use roxul, a vapor guard, etc. Reality is the only really good solution for basement walls (facing concrete foundation) is foam board put up before framing the wall. The north and south side of the basement have foam board already.

So we're looking at doubling the drywall which I read is rather effective. If the framing job was better, I might not be so inclined, but it's just bad enough that we're certain it'll be hard to smooth out. So putting a 2nd layer of drywall and staggering it so the rough edges of first layer are covered by the 2nd layer should smooth things out as well as provide some nice acoustical benefit.

 

[Scarpozzi]

The only thing you have to be aware of when installing 2 sheets of drywall is that the drywall thickness will be 1" instead of the typical 1/2"....so if you have electrical in the walls, you'll need to make sure the boxes stick out enough. The electrical code has rules pertaining to combustible and noncombustible walls and the depth of the wall boxes....if you have existing wall boxes, you'll need to get some wall box extenders. Generally, gypsum is fine for almost 1/4"...

ARTICLE 314

Outlet, Device, Pull, and Junction Boxes; Conduit Bodies; Fittings; and Handhole Enclosures

314.20 In Wall or Ceiling. In walls or ceilings with a surface of concrete, tile, gypsum, plaster, or other noncombustible material, boxes employing a flush-type cover or faceplate shall be installed so that the front edge of the box, plaster ring, extension ring, or listed extender will not be set back of the finished surface more than 6 mm (1⁄4 in.). In walls and ceilings constructed of wood or other combustible surface material, boxes, plaster rings, extension rings, or listed extenders shall be flush with the finished surface or project therefrom.

 

[Carson Dyle]

Aren't only the outside walls of the basement finished? Adding an additional layer of drywall to those walls built within a concrete foundation won't do very much. For the new inside walls, there are additional materials and techniques you can use, but increasing the mass of the walls is probably the most effective technique.

Given that this room is in the basement, your real challenge, though, is going to be avoiding sound coupling with the floor joists. Not just the ceiling drywall, as in the video below, but also the walls. Anything you tie into the floor joists will transmit sound vibrations into the joists and the living space above.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-IfYuNnRLgU


.

 

[Aikouka]

We decided, for various reasons, not to put any insulation in the walls. We don't really need insulation because the foundation is really well done.

The roxul that I linked isn't insulation. It's strictly for sound proofing. They actually have other variants that are for both sound proofing and insulation. I've actually been tempted to use the same stuff in my theater room (really just the living room) when I get around to trying to perform some mild isolation.

 

[MongGrel]

You could go old school and just put up one layer and glue egg crates to the walls and ceiling, for a music room ...

There are other sound deadening things these days.

Even the foam type.

Depends on what you mean by a music room to begin with.

 

[TechBoyJK]

The roxul that I linked isn't insulation. It's strictly for sound proofing. They actually have other variants that are for both sound proofing and insulation. I've actually been tempted to use the same stuff in my theater room (really just the living room) when I get around to trying to perform some mild isolation.

What was linked is insulation w/sound barrier. They make fiberglass batts with w/ sound barrier as well.

 

[Aikouka]

What was linked is insulation w/sound barrier. They make fiberglass batts with w/ sound barrier as well.

Confusingly enough, they use the word "insulation", but the listed R-value is 0. I actually first saw this stuff on a DIY Network show, and they combined it with doubling the drywall, and it seemed to work pretty well.

 

[Carson Dyle]

You might consider this technique for building the walls. The double layer of drywall, or whatever other materials and techniques you use will mostly just help to isolate the room from the rest of the basement, not so much the house above.

http://ezinearticles.com/?Reverse-Floating-Walls-in-Basement-Construction&id=863677

Here in Colorado we have a lot of areas with expansive soils, causing basement floors to rise and fall with the seasons, and creating havoc with cracking walls, etc. So floating the walls, particularly in basements, is common. Usually that means tying the wall to the ceiling and not the floor, allowing for some movement. But it can be done the other way around, too. That might be a way to avoid coupling the walls to the floor joists above.

 

[TechBoyJK]

You might consider this technique for building the walls. The double layer of drywall, or whatever other materials and techniques you use will mostly just help to isolate the room from the rest of the basement, not so much the house above.

http://ezinearticles.com/?Reverse-Floating-Walls-in-Basement-Construction&id=863677

Here in Colorado we have a lot of areas with expansive soils, causing basement floors to rise and fall with the seasons, and creating havoc with cracking walls, etc. So floating the walls, particularly in basements, is common. Usually that means tying the wall to the ceiling and not the floor, allowing for some movement. But it can be done the other way around, too. That might be a way to avoid coupling the walls to the floor joists above.

I'm mostly concerned about sound bouncing around the walls, and less about sound escaping the room.

 

[Carson Dyle]

I'm mostly concerned about sound bouncing around the walls, and less about sound escaping the room.

I kind of doubt doubling the drywall is going to do very much at all, then. What you're talking about is more akin to creating a studio space. You want to look at treatments like diffusion, absorption, base traps. Killing slap echo is usually the first order or business. And when you're all done you don't want to have completely deadened the room. There's a lot of info on the net.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xsZUctSSDDc

 

[TechBoyJK]

I kind of doubt doubling the drywall is going to do very much at all, then. What you're talking about is more akin to creating a studio space. You want to look at treatments like diffusion, absorption, base traps. Killing slap echo is usually the first order or business. And when you're all done you don't want to have completely deadened the room. There's a lot of info on the net.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xsZUctSSDDc

I have an entirely different plan for what goes up after the walls are done and it includes much of what you mentioned. I'm putting up panels and bass traps for starters.

 

[DrPizza]

I'm mostly concerned about sound bouncing around the walls, and less about sound escaping the room.

Then the extra drywall is pointless. Your wall and ceiling coverings are what matters.

 

[MongGrel]

Then the extra drywall is pointless. Your wall and ceiling coverings are what matters.

+1

 

[Red Squirrel]

For sound reflection you want something that will absorb sound, more than block it. Professional rooms use these foam piramids that stick out like 2 metres, probably overkill for a house, but something of that effect but smaller scale might work. Egg cartons apparently work, but you'll need to eat a lot of eggs for a while to accumulate enough. LOL. Can always ask family and friends to keep theirs for you as well. Some kind of spray foam may work too, regular spray foam won't work (it actually makes the room more echoey) but there may be a type that would work, check with a spray foam company if they have a product designed for sound dethening. Basically a spongy rough surface will probably work decently.

 

[TechBoyJK]

Then the extra drywall is pointless. Your wall and ceiling coverings are what matters.

basement ceiling is packed with insulation with sound absorption. Floor will eventually be carpeted (with carpet squares).

Besides the drywall, I planned to use various panels, bass traps, etc.

My use for the dual drywall was two fold

1) Thicken the walls to deaden sound
2) Use 2nd layer to cover uneven first layer.

I expect the first layer of drywall to be uneven based on some of the framing. It'd only be an extra $150 to do a 2nd layer, so it was kind of a 'while I'm at it' situation. I'd rather just put up a 2nd layer than spend a weekend trying to tape/mud all the bad spots away.

 

[DrPizza]

I'm confused about the "uneven" due to framing. Is the problem that the framing isn't on a plane - that is, the drywall would be bowed if you attach it to all the framing? Shimming is a better idea to fix the bows than using a 2nd layer of drywall.

You're not necessarily trying to absorb sound - you're trying to stop echo. Echo is absorbed/stopped with soft material like foam.

http://www.acousticalsurfaces.com/b...he-difference-between-blocking-and-absorbing/

 

[Carson Dyle]

Join forum. Ask questions.

https://www.gearslutz.com/board/studio-building-acoustics/

 

[paperfist]

http://www.greengluecompany.com/

 

[TechBoyJK]

http://www.greengluecompany.com/

out of budget.

Leaning towards single sheets now. Since budget is limited, and the effect of two sheets is minimal, I'm going to likely spend the cash on other methods.

 

[paperfist]

out of budget.

Leaning towards single sheets now. Since budget is limited, and the effect of two sheets is minimal, I'm going to likely spend the cash on other methods.

Man all the money you're sinking into your basement and once you do the sound room it's done until remodeling if ever is in the budget. It's one room I wouldn't skimp on. I sure wish I spend more money sounding proofing the 1st floor from my second floor. There's no way in hell I'm going to tear down my ceiling again to address it.

Not sure if you can use these channels on walls, but they dampen sound on the 2nd layer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YitQQJrksYI

 

[TechBoyJK]

Man all the money you're sinking into your basement and once you do the sound room it's done until remodeling if ever is in the budget. It's one room I wouldn't skimp on. I sure wish I spend more money sounding proofing the 1st floor from my second floor. There's no way in hell I'm going to tear down my ceiling again to address it.

Not sure if you can use these channels on walls, but they dampen sound on the 2nd layer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YitQQJrksYI

actually doublestuffed the basement ceiling with fiberglass batts with sound absorption. Not the best stuff, but it works, and I got it for 50% with 20% discount and 5% coupon.

That said, because of drawbacks of insulating the basement floor (transfer of heat, condensation, etc.) I'm only doing the half of the basement that will be a music room.

 

[stormkroe]

Op, just strap the walls with 1x4 and shim until flat enough, then single layer drywall. Then egg crate every square inch. As mentioned earlier, egg crate is your friend. There's also a product called 'sound bar' that's often used in hotel construction, it's basically a thin gage 'S' channel that allows the ceiling drywall to hang, it really REALLY cuts down on noise both directions.

 

[TechBoyJK]

Alright you guys. Talked me out of it!

We're going to use some shims to try and fix the issues with the framing.

The idea of double drywall helping only applies to walls between spaces... Not in my situation where I have a solid concrete wall behind the drywall. The concrete is already doing anything the double drywall would.

I do have one wall that will be framed up to separate the music room from the rest of the basement, and I'm going to go ahead and double drywall that and use Green Glue. I can afford a small amount of GG so it's ok for this one wall, but doing so throughout the entire basement would not only be expensive, but not that effective.