SiSoft Sandra will report AAM being on in the notes/warnings section, but it won't tell you exactly what the setting is at, nor let you change it.
AAMSET could still be available somewhere, buried, but it's pretty simple; works only on PATA drives IIRC, and only lets you change the setting to something, doesn't report what the setting is.
Based on my own sampling, including several 300 GB drives, I believe that all Maxtor drives ship with AAM enabled, and set to "high performance". Paradoxically, there's another setting, "recommended", and that's a bit lower than "high performance" -- so Maxtor doesn't follow their own recommendation. There may not be any difference in effect between the "recommended" and "high performance" -- it's up to the drive to interpret this setting.
I happen to believe that this setting is probably a good compromise, and is probably not worth the effort to change, however, I've almost always disabled AAM because, well, performance > x for x in {silence, heat, sanity, ..} for me (just kidding, well, sort of). I've never measured the performance difference; and just assumed that no AAM is better than AAM set to max performance, which it might be, slightly.
HDDLife, though somewhat buggy in my experience, can do this job, at least with Microsoft drivers for non RAID configurations. The version that I tried had bug fix reports which claimed that it would allow changes on platform drivers, but it wouldn't work -- it would just shows the settings; changes had no effect. Uninstalling the drivers, using the default Microsoft ones, changing the setting, installing the platform drivers worked.