TTAKE COOLANT ALL OVER COMPUTER - CONDUCTIVE OR NOT?

[dogie]

EVGA 122-CK-NF68 NF680i SLI, S775, PCI-E(x16), DDR2 1200/533/667/800, SATA II, SATA RAID, ATX
Intel Core 2 DUO E6600 "LGA775 Conroe" 2.40GHz (1066FSB) - OEM
2GB (2x1GB) CorsairTwinX XMS2, DDR2 PC2-6400 (800), 240 Pins, Non-ECC Unbuffered, CAS 4-4-4-12, EPP
2x250 Gb Samsung Spinpoint P SP2504C, SATA300, 7200 rpm, 8MB Cache
Thermaltake VE2000SWA Armour LCS Super Tower - Silver
Sony AW-G170ASV 18x DVD±RW x12 Ram Dual Layer DVD-Writer - (Silver) OEM
OcUK GeForce 8800 GTX 768MB GDDR3 HDTV/Dual DVI (PCI-Express) - Retail
Enermax Liberty 620W ELT620AWT ATX2.2 Modular SLI Compliant PSU

Basically, reservoir twisted off pump during transit to customer, box totally soaked. Insides totally soaked.

1) Does the coolant conduct?
2) If it doesn't, once it dries is it ok to go
3) If it does conduct, best way to clean it
4) If it either does conduct or not, if its dry is it ok?

 

[Zepper]

Water with solute in it is almost always more conductive than plain distilled water (which is pretty non-conductive).

Any dingleberry should know better than to ship a fully-charged, Water Cooled system... :roll: One should arrange with a local tech to check out the connections and charge the system with coolant on-site if the customer is unwilling or judged incapable. I wouldn't even carry a full system across town in my car unless all connections were metal or reinforced plastic and with automotive style (stainless steel band w/ tensioning screw) hose clamps and all hoses supported.

Luckily most PC components are pretty rugged to this sort of thing. Parts can be rinsed with warm distilled H20 to remove the coolant and dried with isopropyl or ethyl alcohol rinses and drip dry with agitation to get any liquid out of contact holes, etc. Any experienced PC tech should know how to do that. If it got into parts that can't be disassembled or thoroughly rinsed out perhaps like fans/motors/optical or floppy drives etc., those may need to be replaced. But sometimes those can be rescued too it's just a matter of weighing the cost to rescue over the cost of replacing.

.bh.

 

[dogie]

http://forums.steampowered.com/forums/showthread.php?t=527547

According to this board, its a mixture of Ethylene Glycol and deionised water. Therefore it shouldn't conduct? How is one supposed to test a WCed PC then without filling it?

 

[Zepper]

Fill it, then drain it prior to shipping. Ethylene Glycol probably isn't a good conductor alone, dH20 is a poor conductor. But a solution of the two - I don't know.

.bh.

 

[dogie]

How on earth you would drain a TT intergrated LCS, I have no idea.

Hmm.

Ive had him clean off everything obvious, and hes going to leave a hair dryer proped up in the case to hopefully get anything else out. Leave it over night. Should be fine?

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: dogie
How on earth you would drain a TT intergrated LCS, I have no idea.

Hmm.

Ive had him clean off everything obvious, and hes going to leave a hair dryer proped up in the case to hopefully get anything else out. Leave it over night. Should be fine?

need some more info.

Was the coolant factory? because TT's coolant is non conductive.
Did u add extra water at all? if you did was it DI? if you added regular water, you might be in trouble.

Lastly the coolant will dry white. Trust me, i would concider myself near pro lvl of watercooling. Dont believe me look at all the watercooling threads i have gave advice on. Just let it dry out in the sun or somewhere. Then wipe the white residue off with rubbing alcohol to the best you can. I wouldnt recomend turn on the system for the next few days while trying to dry it.

Once u cleaned out all the white residue, i would say it would be safe to turn it on. As i said the coolant maybe non conductive, but the dust your case/board had could give the coolant conductive properties, so i would wait for it to dry and turn white.

If your coolant doesnt dry and turn white, then your basically SOFL beacause you didnt use the EtGly coolant TT provided.

Draining a TT system is easy as the resivour has a quick drain valve on the resivour. You just plugg a tube to it and drain.

I dont like TT kits. Many people have reported leakage issues and also the kits dont perform nearly on par with other custom kits. And before someone gives you wrong advice heres a sample of my watercooling to prove to you i know what im talking.

My loop


So to sum it up.

1. Wait for the coolant to dry and turn white. IT WILL TURN WHITE (might take a day or 2)
2. Wipe off with rubbing alcohol and get rid of white residue
3. Refill with DI water.
4. Run test with DI water
5. Goto petratech, pick up some peniosion G11, add to your existing DI water.
6. Let system be until next reflush.


Simple and Over.

 

[dogie]

Did use the stock TT coolant. Thanks for the help. Btw, why you swap your 3800x2 for a 175 when you hit higher with the 3800x2?

Btw, the intergrated LCS for the Armour does not have the fillport.

 

[Zepper]

Any WC system should have drain and bleed valves. If they aren't there, add them.

.bh.

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: dogie
Did use the stock TT coolant. Thanks for the help. Btw, why you swap your 3800x2 for a 175 when you hit higher with the 3800x2?

Btw, the intergrated LCS for the Armour does not have the fillport.

Because the X2 couldnt do this

Theres no need for a media Center thats going to be playing movies and some slight games to be clocked at 3.2ghz. lol

She's the most happiest at 2.75-2.81 i just like 2.75 because it means 250x4 = 1000htt and i can also keep my ram at 1:1 ratio. But yeah, if i want, i can shift her over to 3.2 and have her up long enough to toast most other opty's out there


Stepping is: CCBBE 0617 EPMW

Also got her at newegg for 179.99 Cant resist getting an opty for that price even if she was limited to 2.8ghz and i had a spare DFI SLI-DR board. So X2 is now a NAS and Opty a MC and the QX my main when i get her back up.

 

[soydios]

Ethylene glycol (aka automotive antifreeze) is non-conductive. Distilled water is non-conductive. But any dust or mineral deposits on the components might form a solute in the water, making it conductive. The suggestion of "wash with distilled H2O, rinse with ethyl alcohol, fully dry, then test" sounds sensible to me.