trying to flush my water heater.

[QueBert]

I don't know a whole lot about this shit, but I thought I knew enough. Apparently not, I Googled and still can't figure it out. I got build up and it's making popping sounds like crazy and the hot water runs out way too quick. Any ways...

It's a gas water heater, I turned it off, and turned off the water valve on the top. I went into and turned on the hot water in the bath, nothing came out. I then took the pipe off the pressure release valve and put a bucket under it and open it, but not a drop came out. I figured maybe there isn't enough pressure or whatever. So I put a bucket under the drain spigot and opened it to get about a whopping 10oz of water. After that I tried opening the pressure valve again, but not a drop. This isn't rocket science, but it's not working the way I know it should. I know the popping's from sediment so I'm just trying to flush it out. Is there any reason leaving the water valve on, and the gas off overnight then hooking a hose to to the drain and opening it up for 10 minutes (or however long) to flush it out won't work?

Assuming there's some build up or blockage preventing the pressure valve from opening, shouldn't I still get water from it? Even if it's just a trickle? I don't want to call a plumber, this should be easy to fix. The fuck am I doing wrong here?

Moved from OT.
admin allisolm

 

[BoomerD]

You shouldn't get much out of the pressure release valve with the water shut off.

You might have enough sediment built up in the bottom of the water heater that the drain is plugged. It happens. Be sure to open the pop-off/pressure-release valve and/or the hot water valve (preferably at the highest point in your house...but any will work) when you open the drain spigot. it will allow water to flow more easily.

if that doesn't work, you might have to remove and replace the whole drain valve from the tank. Replacements should be available at Home Depot/Lowes.

http://www.homedepot.com/s/water%20heater%20drain%20valve?NCNI-5

OR, you might be able to back flush the tank:

http://www.hometips.com/repair-fix/how-to-back-flush-a-water-heater.html


if your water heater is THAT badly sedimented, you might consider just replacing it.

 

[stargazr]

There may be so much sediment that it could block the drain. This video says there are professional quality drain fittings available that work better than standard fittings. I don't think the pressure release valve is involved with draining.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6nZjHTX91ZQ

Edit: Didn't see your post, Boomer.

I had a small heater in a mobile home years ago that was almost half full of sediment! It does sound like it may be time for a new one.

 

[John Connor]

I make it a habit to open the drain valve once a year. Sediment can seal those shut and if pressure happens to build up in the tank it will explode your house like you haven't seen before. Seen it, heard it many times in the news.

I mean literately. Your damn house explodes.

 

[cbrunny]

I make it a habit to open the drain valve once a year. Sediment can seal those shut and if pressure happens to build up in the tank it will explode your house like you haven't seen before. Seen it, heard it many times in the news.

I mean literately. Your damn house explodes.

mythbusters did this on at least two occasions. It was definitely worth watching to see what happens.

Note though that they had to disable multiple safety features of a typical tank, so unless you have some kind of unregulated unsafe tank, you're probably fine. The odds of it exploding are basically zero.

 

[John Connor]

The odds of it exploding are basically zero.

Well, no offense to you or Mythbusters, but.... Mythbusters isn't true science and I've seen a number of news stories on this happening. You should ALWYAS left the drain valve release for 5 seconds or so once a year. Mythbusters or not.

 

[Elganja]

you just reminded me... i need to do mine soon

 

[cbrunny]

Well, no offense to you or Mythbusters, but.... Mythbusters isn't true science and I've seen a number of news stories on this happening. You should ALWYAS left the drain valve release for 5 seconds or so once a year. Mythbusters or not.

ah, well. Since news = science, I guess you're right.

 

[John Connor]

News means fact. It happened IRL.

 

[echo4747]

If the water heater is very old or you havent flushed it in years .. you have too much sediment in the bottom of the tank and its plugging the drain valve. It is probably going to be near impossible t flush out that mud sediment ( its thick like mud) Chances are 50/50 that you will need a new pressure release valve too. Once they are opened they dont like to seat properly and continually drip(especially after they havent been opened in a long time)
As much as you dont want to hear this... its probably time for a new tank. With the old tank the gas flame has to heat the sludge which in turn heats your water. Since your tank runs out of hot water quickly... says you have a lot of sludge. You will probably slowly offset the cost of the new tank with the higher efficiency it brings (plus you will have its full capacity of water too)

 

[cbrunny]

News means fact. It happened IRL.

lol i'm not disputing that. it is possible - they can explode. i'm just pointing out that in order for it to explode, a number of different things must go wrong on multiple different parts of the tank. Because of this, the odds of it happening are basically zero. That's why there are very very very few stories about this happening. If it was common, it would be common.

 

[PottedMeat]

i drain my electric water heater 1x/year and pull about 5-10 lbs of precipitated minerals out ( the water here is crap ). i pull out the bottom element, leaving a ~2" bung where i can stick a shop vac and suck all the sediment out - no mud, just little ~1/2" x ~1" long half rounded pieces of rock.

do gas heaters have a large size port that you can get in?

you're supposed to use the drain valve at the bottom as boomerd said. you may have more luck removing the stem/core of the drain valve or even just flat out replacing it.
if this is the first time you've done it in years you should replace the pressure release too (~$10?). get the right one - top mount or side mount.

if the water has been drained out and you've disconnected it - rock it back and forth and try to estimate how much crap is in there to see if you should just replace it.

*if you do clean it, check the anode rod* (thats another few bucks)

 

[NetWareHead]

What BoomerD said. Open the hot water faucet at a higher elevation than the water heater to allow air into the tank so water can drain out.

The popping noises when the water heater is firing are guaranteed symptoms of excessive sediment in the bottom of the tank. The water in the sediment layer turns to steam and when it rises out of the sediment and into comparatively colder water, it condenses and thumps/pops.

If the drain is clogged, call a service plumber. Those guys have a vacuum hose that can be snaked up the drain valve and they can suck the sediment out of the tank bottom. If the water heater can be cleaned and brought back to use, consider replacing the sacrificial anode rod too while it is being serviced.

However if the heater is old enough or has other damage, it may just be more intelligent to replace the entire tank.

 

[twinrider1]

I make it a habit to open the drain valve once a year. Sediment can seal those shut and if pressure happens to build up in the tank it will explode your house like you haven't seen before. Seen it, heard it many times in the news.

I mean literately. Your damn house explodes.

Do you mean the pressure-relief valve?

 

[NetWareHead]

I make it a habit to open the drain valve once a year. Sediment can seal those shut and if pressure happens to build up in the tank it will explode your house like you haven't seen before. Seen it, heard it many times in the news.

I mean literately. Your damn house explodes.

You are confusing the drain and pressure relief valve. Sediment typically accumulates in the bottom of the tank where the drain valve is. The PRV is is the top of upper side and away from sediment and wont clog under these conditions. The PRV keeps the tank pressure under control. However it is a good idea to open the drain valve occasionally to keep that clear.

 

[feralkid]

dp.

 

[feralkid]

It's a gas water heater, I turned it off, and turned off the water valve on the top. The fuck am I doing wrong here?

Moved from OT.
admin allisolm

You just answered your own question.

You leave the water valve OPEN, so the water pressure can flush out the tank.

Then, you open the DRAIN VALVE (preferably with hose attached) to flush it out, Not the T&P (pressure relief) valve.

 

[QueBert]

thanks for all the replies, with the valve on water shoots out of the drain when I open it. So if it's just too clogged from sediment to drain while the valve's shut off. Would leaving it open with a hose hooked up for 10 minutes accomplish anything? I mean if water comes out when everything is on, it's not too blocked? I'm going to run to Lowes and get the bigger valve thanks for the info and link BoomerD

 

[NetWareHead]

thanks for all the replies, with the valve on water shoots out of the drain when I open it. So if it's just too clogged from sediment to drain while the valve's shut off. Would leaving it open with a hose hooked up for 10 minutes accomplish anything? I mean if water comes out when everything is on, it's not too blocked? I'm going to run to Lowes and get the bigger valve thanks for the info and link BoomerD

Letting it run (with the water pressure of the house) may help to clear up some localized immediately near the outlet of the drainage valve. But it wont help the rest of the sediment in the bottom of the tank. You need to get that thing cleaned or replaced.

 

[QueBert]

Going to go buy the bigger drain valve, it's not that old of a unit. 2008 I think? We have very hard water and I'm not sure if it's ever been drained. But I'm hoping it can be salvaged.

 

[gorcorps]

Going to go buy the bigger drain valve, it's not that old of a unit. 2008 I think? We have very hard water and I'm not sure if it's ever been drained. But I'm hoping it can be salvaged.

I need to do the same thing. The last time I tried to drain the tank there was stuff in there that wouldn't come out of the drain line because the orifice was so small. I know there's stuff in there causing an issue, but could never come up with a good time to do it.

 

[John Connor]

Do you mean the pressure-relief valve?

Yes.

 

[John Connor]

lol i'm not disputing that. it is possible - they can explode. i'm just pointing out that in order for it to explode, a number of different things must go wrong on multiple different parts of the tank. Because of this, the odds of it happening are basically zero. That's why there are very very very few stories about this happening. If it was common, it would be common.

Interesting links Googleing.

Shifted the whole foundation! http://www.theplumbinginfo.com/water-heaters-danger-lurking-home/

http://citywideplumbingpros.com/blog/water-heater-explosion-warning-signs/

https://www.coolray.com/help-guides/prevent-atlanta-water-heater-explosions

 

[feralkid]

thanks for all the replies, with the valve on water shoots out of the drain when I open it. So if it's just too clogged from sediment to drain while the valve's shut off. Would leaving it open with a hose hooked up for 10 minutes accomplish anything? I mean if water comes out when everything is on, it's not too blocked? I'm going to run to Lowes and get the bigger valve thanks for the info and link BoomerD

You DON'Tneed to drain it with the valve shut off.

You DON'T need a bigger valve (WTF?)

Just hook up a drain hose and flush the hell out of it; it's not rocket science.


Most of your problems come from not having done this regularly in the past. By the time it's making noise, the problem is probably too far advanced for flushing it out to make any difference. The bottom of the tank is already plated with calcium carbonate and whatever other minerals are in your local water supply.


Furthermore, if your supply is running out too quickly, you probably have a broken dip tube.


Holy smokes there's a lot of confusion and bad/useless advice in this thread.



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[evident]

Just moved into my home last year and i've never done this ( I never did it in my townhome either). Is this a necessary routine thing that a homeowner should do every year? I don't have any problems w/ my hot water heater and it' looks about 5-10 years old.