TRUE push/pull configuration question

coreyb

Platinum Member
Aug 12, 2007
2,437
1
0
Hi,

I bought another fan today today to hopefully setup my TRUE heatsink in the push/pull configuration. Could anyone help me figure out how to install a second fan on this kickass HS?
 

aigomorla

CPU, Cases&Cooling Mod PC Gaming Mod Elite Member
Super Moderator
Sep 28, 2005
21,067
3,574
126
the zalman f3's are pretty badass for sinks.

Also the Ultra Kaze's are pretty good but loud.

Yate DSM's arent too bad as well.
 

error8

Diamond Member
Nov 28, 2007
3,204
0
76
I've used normal wire to install the second fan on my Thermalright Ultra 90. As for the electrical connection, I've cut the connector of the second fan, and soldered the black and red wire to the wires of the first fan that is connected to the motherboard and so both fans will spin at the same speed.
 

DerwenArtos12

Diamond Member
Apr 7, 2003
4,278
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0
From what I've seen, the easiest way to do a push pull on the TRUE is to mount one fan normally then use a few zipties around the body of both fans and around the heatsink to basically make a TRUE sandwich between the fan with the zipties squeezing everything together.
 

F1shF4t

Golden Member
Oct 18, 2005
1,583
1
71
Originally posted by: DerwenArtos12
From what I've seen, the easiest way to do a push pull on the TRUE is to mount one fan normally then use a few zipties around the body of both fans and around the heatsink to basically make a TRUE sandwich between the fan with the zipties squeezing everything together.

I use the two clips that come with the heatsink at the top, one for each fan and connect the bottom of the fans together by zip ties around the fins of the heatsink from one fan to the other. That way its still easily removable if need be, just unclip the fans at the top.
 

BonzaiDuck

Lifer
Jun 30, 2004
16,617
2,023
126
Well . . . . I haven't visited the forums for a couple months -- caught up as I am in "property management, personal and non-profit accounting." And I had to get a jump on the kitchen vegetable garden. I've already got Arugula! and Spinach! and Celery! and Lettuce! Waiting for the Tomatoes to grow and set fruit . . .

You can do all that . . . with zip-ties, extra clips, etc. If your case exhaust hole and fan mate up even inaccurately with the broad face of the TRUE, for whatever gap that exists between them, you can build a foam-board duct between the fan and cooler. You could then have one fan hanging on the intake side.

In my setup, I have a large modded Proliant-Server case, which had been fitted with a large drive-chassis for hot-swap hard disks, and in addition to the original SCSI RAID board that came with the junk-case, there was provision for rear-drive-cage intake fans. Nevertheless, with a drill and tap, and some cheap brass fan brackets I'd bought at some computer-nick-nack store, I was able to put two 140mm fans behind the drives, and duct from at least one of them tapered to the 120mm TRUE intake. With some minor modification -- more foam board and Lexan pieces, I can modify the duct box so that both 140mm fans are ducted to push air through the TR (Ultra 120) Extreme.

Now -- as I said -- I've "been away" puttering in the garden, evicting a tenant, and suing for back-rent.

What new coolers have appeared on the market that trump the TR Ultra 120 Extreme?
 

Syzygies

Senior member
Mar 7, 2008
229
0
0
Originally posted by: Old Hippie
Nothing specific unless you want to buy another set of fan clips.
I did. The second set of gel strips that came with the clips were nice; there are alternatives for dampening 120mm fans that would also work.

However, the TRUE holes only take one set of clips, and struggling with them can break the holes, in which case you'll have to use my method:

Originally posted by: DerwenArtos12
From what I've seen, the easiest way to do a push pull on the TRUE is to mount one fan normally then use a few zipties around the body of both fans and around the heatsink to basically make a TRUE sandwich between the fan with the zipties squeezing everything together.
I just rebuilt my push-pull TRUE, after a lapping session. I had been using two rectangles of four zip ties each, to bundle the sandwich like a package. This time, the other shoe dropped.

Find zip ties that are narrow and long enough to run through all sets of fan holes, and between the layers of the TRUE. On one side the zip tie heads grab the fan. On the other side, cut off the heads from another four zip ties, and use them to cinch the sandwich together.

Make sure both fans are on straight, and cinch fairly tight. This is much more secure, and less fiddly, than other methods I've tried or seen. A layer of TRUE deflects slightly, but no big deal.

A picture makes this clear:

Push pull TRUE using "through" zip ties
 

lightstar

Senior member
Mar 16, 2008
579
0
0
Originally posted by: Syzygies
Originally posted by: Old Hippie
Nothing specific unless you want to buy another set of fan clips.
I did. The second set of gel strips that came with the clips were nice; there are alternatives for dampening 120mm fans that would also work.

However, the TRUE holes only take one set of clips, and struggling with them can break the holes, in which case you'll have to use my method:

Originally posted by: DerwenArtos12
From what I've seen, the easiest way to do a push pull on the TRUE is to mount one fan normally then use a few zipties around the body of both fans and around the heatsink to basically make a TRUE sandwich between the fan with the zipties squeezing everything together.
I just rebuilt my push-pull TRUE, after a lapping session. I had been using two rectangles of four zip ties each, to bundle the sandwich like a package. This time, the other shoe dropped.

Find zip ties that are narrow and long enough to run through all sets of fan holes, and between the layers of the TRUE. On one side the zip tie heads grab the fan. On the other side, cut off the heads from another four zip ties, and use them to cinch the sandwich together.

Make sure both fans are on straight, and cinch fairly tight. This is much more secure, and less fiddly, than other methods I've tried or seen. A layer of TRUE deflects slightly, but no big deal.

A picture makes this clear:

Push pull TRUE using "through" zip ties

that looks really cool- i'm trying to do the same thing. . . .those zip ties look thinner and narrower than any i've seen- where can i get some like that?
 

Syzygies

Senior member
Mar 7, 2008
229
0
0
Originally posted by: lightstar. . . .those zip ties look thinner and narrower than any i've seen- where can i get some like that?
I bought mine at Fry's. They're All-States Cable Ties, model number RT-508. Here's one of many sources, with a chart that helps spec them for finding alternatives:

ALL STATES CABLE TIES in stock at Marsh Electronics

In the interest of full disclosure, all of my cores are running cooler after lapping, but I'm seeing a 10 C spread. This is in the realm of science fiction, anyone here knows this can't be right. If I've done something reproducible, I have an obligation to figure out what it was so I can get the lowest temps with all four cores, and tell others.

The paranoid computer program debugger in me ignores probabilities except for ordering what to try first, and begins by making a list of what could possibly be going on. At the top of my list is a lopsided lapping job, flawless for three cores and botched for the fourth. Or an extremely thin application of AS5 is responsible for my best temps, and gaps in the application is responsible for my hottest core.

Then, there is the remote chance that my cable ties are indirectly stressing the heat pipes, causing one to pull up. I truly don't believe this is the case, but I haven't ruled this out. I will rotate the TRUE 180 when I reapply TIM.

With any cable ties, one can make a pair of four sided straps to go outside all fans, not through the TRUE. A bit fiddly, but you'll get it right on attempt #2. Just don't click the cable ties too aggressively, or you'll have to put in another quarter to play again.