TRUE Black 120

[Synomenon]

I'm interested in picking up a TRUE Black 120, but have seen all those posts about lapping the TRUE. I just got a Zalman CNPS9900 and the base is pretty smooth (almost a mirror finish).

How does a TRUE Black 120's base compare to a Zalman's base? I don't overclock and would like to run the TRUE Black 120 fanless in my Antec Mini P180.

 

[Krynj]

If you want to go fanless, it's probably a good idea to lap the base of the TRUE black 120.

Effective passive cooling relies heavily on good heatsink contact. The base of the TRUE 120s have a slightly uneven base, so, it may be necessary.

 

[Krynj]

And why not snag one of these?

http://www.xoxide.com/thermalr...-copper-cpucooler.html

 

[Synomenon]

I like the black better. It will match my XFX Geforce 9300 board. Plus, I've read that the copper one isn't that much better and it costs more.

 

[imported_Scoop]

Why would you get the TRUE for passive operation? It's not a good heatsink with low airflow. Thermalright HR-01 Plus, Noctua NH-U12P and Prolimatech Megahalems are all better just to name a few.

 

[videogames101]

They should be lapped.

/thread

(and, the TRUE is not meant for a passive setup)

 

[Synomenon]

After reading about all the things you should do with the TRUE (lapping, alternative mounting methods, and the higher price) I've decided it's not worth the trouble. I'm getting the Xigmatek Dark Knight-S1283 instead.

 

[Tweakin]

Originally posted by: Scoop
Why would you get the TRUE for passive operation? It's not a good heatsink with low airflow. Thermalright HR-01 Plus, Noctua NH-U12P and Prolimatech Megahalems are all better just to name a few.

Actually, the True is great with low output fan. Take a look here....

 

[rarebear]

Lap any HS its the only way to know it is flat..

If its flat you have a little work to do if not you have more work...

If you dont do it you have no way to know what you have....

Also I would get the Xigmatek Dark Knight-S1283

It has Direct Heat Pipe Contact, heat pipes seem to be the big thing so direct contact would be best I think..

If not a huge chunk of copper would be at the bottom all HSs

 

[TidusZ]

Make sure you lap the processor too.

Note: For those comparing the TRUE black and regular, the only difference (aside from colour) is the black comes with two sets of fan clips to mount push/pull, otherwise its the same.

 

[imported_Scoop]

Originally posted by: Tweakin

Originally posted by: Scoop
Why would you get the TRUE for passive operation? It's not a good heatsink with low airflow. Thermalright HR-01 Plus, Noctua NH-U12P and Prolimatech Megahalems are all better just to name a few.

Actually, the True is great with low output fan. Take a look here....

None of the heatsinks I listed were included in that test.

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article916-page5.html

 

[zerogear]

Originally posted by: IsLNdbOi
I'm interested in picking up a TRUE Black 120, but have seen all those posts about lapping the TRUE. I just got a Zalman CNPS9900 and the base is pretty smooth (almost a mirror finish).

How does a TRUE Black 120's base compare to a Zalman's base? I don't overclock and would like to run the TRUE Black 120 fanless in my Antec Mini P180.

Heatsinks should never be used passive if the cpu is over 89W.

 

[error8]

Originally posted by: zerogear


Heatsinks should never be used passive if the cpu is over 89W.

Even the 65W cpu might run into trouble in passive mode, if the case is not very well ventilated.

If the cpu is above 89 W, then it truly is a struggle to keep it cool on a passive heatsink. You have to have serious airflow around it and that implies a lot of extra fans, which will deny the whole purpose of the passive cooler, since a lot of noise will be generated.

 

[BonzaiDuck]

I jus' gotta chime in on this.

On the matter of the copper version of the TRUE: it's freakin' heavy.

On the matter of lapping the TRUE or any other cooler: Lapping the TRUE to a flat surface takes extra patience and time as opposed to coolers designed with flat bases, but you can do it on a glass table-top while watching CARTOON channel on TV.

A major point that is overlooked here: Whether you go with the TRUE, the Xigmatek, the Sunbeam "direct-touch," the Noctua NH-U12P -- lapping the cooler base AND the processor IHS is worth 5 to 10C reduction in load temperatures for a nominal CPU thermal wattage of 100+W. And it is not only so much a matter of getting the base flat -- an important consideration with the TRUE's base-convexity. It is just as -- or more -- important to get rid of the nickel-plating on one or both surfaces.

 

[chizow]

Originally posted by: IsLNdbOi
I'm interested in picking up a TRUE Black 120, but have seen all those posts about lapping the TRUE. I just got a Zalman CNPS9900 and the base is pretty smooth (almost a mirror finish).

How does a TRUE Black 120's base compare to a Zalman's base? I don't overclock and would like to run the TRUE Black 120 fanless in my Antec Mini P180.

Just to clarify, the goal of lapping isn't necessarily to get a smooth or mirror finish, its to get the base flat. You do want to get it smooth and close to mirror to minimize any deep pits on the surface.

Anyways, I'd highly recommend lapping both the heatsink and CPU IHS if temps are your primary concern. The TRUE's base is rarely flat, same for the CPU. 5-10C drop in temps under load is expected if you spend the $10 on sandpaper and an hour or two watching TV.