Traveling in China 2

Locut0s

Lifer
Nov 28, 2001
22,205
43
91
So as you know I'm traveling in China at the moment, unfortunately with my parents :( but it's better than not most of the time. Anyway I posted a running cometary / list of thoughts a few days back here:

http://forums.anandtech.com/me...id=38&threadid=2310060

Just thought I'd add a few more. Oh and the primer is that I lived here for about 3 1/2 years when I was a toddler and I speak enough of the language to get around.

Please ask questions!

-Currently just got into Guilin after a torturous train trip. About 30 hours on the train with a 4 hours transfer stop in between. We had hard bunks on the train but they were not in their own rooms, 6 to a "cubicle". Fairly cramped but you get used to it after a while. Thankfully the trains were air conditioned as it's 30 deg C out with 100% humidity. Using the squat toilets on the train wasn't the most fun what with the overpowering smell of urine, dirty floors and what not. And of course like every other public washroom in Asia, no toilet paper or soap. If you come traveling anywhere in Asia plan on bringing your own soap and toilet paper with you (this isn't just in china). It was interesting to see the train personnel walking up and down the isles hawking merchandise like toys, bill counterfeit detectors and more. There was also an open food cart that went up and down the isles selling noodles, rice and more. At one point the people on the lower bunk light a cigarette filling the upper bunks with smoke. They were not supposed to smoke in the cabin but none of the employees stopped them (you will find in much of Asia that such rules and laws are followed far less strictly).

-Despite what I was saying in my first post above about the street food being largely safe to eat I am amazed at some of the stuff that locals buy. I can remember one lady selling assorted meats right out of a bucket on the side of the street (chicken feet, tripe, etc...) and I mean just a bucket. I haven't gotten really sick despite eating lots of street food and at all kinds of less than clean restaurants but I have developed a rather persistent case of diarrhea. Nothing too serious though. If I stayed here longer by GI tract would likely get used to it. But I would always stay away from the most dodgy looking stuff.

-If you travel outside the major tourist cities you will get stared at A LOT and talked about openly a lot. You will hear "Louwai" a lot. This is something that is hard to get used to. This largely stems from 2 things. (1) Traditionally the Chinese are an extremely unselfconscious people (I'm not saying this as a true negative) and hence things like staring are not necessarily considered rude out right. (2) Chinese people often have a very distorted view of westerners. We are more than something of a curiosity.

-Like I was saying above the Chinese are remarkably unselfconscious about many things. The primary thing you will notice would be bodily functions. Chewing, slurping, farting, spitting, going to the bathroom. All of these in the west are considered private matters and we try to hide them from public view. Much less so in China and you will see people spitting in the street, eating/slurping loudly, talking loudly, etc etc... This is FAR more the case with the previous generation than the up and coming younger generation who much more resemble the west in every way.

-The economic boom here is mind blowing. When we lived here 20+ years ago the country was just starting to open up and people still dressed in communist attire. Shops still sold a very small range of goods. Cars were just starting to spear in numbers. People rarely owned much in the way of property. Communications was a hit and miss affair as there were few land lines. Fast forward to now and every city of size has a skyscraper skyline. Buildings are going up at breakneck pace. China has a good highways system. Cars are everywhere. Everyone and their dog has a cell phone (even farmers). The pace of growth is so fast that they don't even clear away old buildings when they knock them down. They just clear away enough to build the new skyscraper leaving a shell of rubble next to it. How often have you seen large municipal works like highway systems, subways systems, major water works, damns etc being constructed? Seems to me every city we visit has something of this magnitude being worked on. Because of this virtual explosion there are literally 2 different China's. There's the China of the 20 something generation who you would be hard pressed to tell apart from westerners and then there is everyone else older than them. They saw their country go from rural third world sleepiness to modern bustling metropolis overnight and they still hang on to their rural upbringings which also explains the point above.
 

AreaCode707

Lifer
Sep 21, 2001
18,447
133
106
What's the overall attitude towards the Chinese government as it has been expressed to you? Have you encountered any rigidity in what you're allowed to see/where you're allowed to go, questioning or complications, because you're a westerner?

(My dad works in China about 3 weeks out of every quarter and he's occasionally followed or questioned by gov employees, just run of the mill stuff.)
 

ivan2

Diamond Member
Mar 6, 2000
5,772
0
0
www.heatware.com
-Currently just got into Guilin after a torturous train trip. About 30 hours on the train with a 4 hours transfer stop in between. We had hard bunks on the train but they were not in their own rooms, 6 to a "cubicle". Fairly cramped but you get used to it after a while. Thankfully the trains were air conditioned as it's 30 deg C out with 100% humidity. Using the squat toilets on the train wasn't the most fun what with the overpowering smell of urine, dirty floors and what not. And of course like every other public washroom in Asia, no toilet paper or soap. If you come traveling anywhere in Asia plan on bringing your own soap and toilet paper with you (this isn't just in china). It was interesting to see the train personnel walking up and down the isles hawking merchandise like toys, bill counterfeit detectors and more. There was also an open food cart that went up and down the isles selling noodles, rice and more. At one point the people on the lower bunk light a cigarette filling the upper bunks with smoke. They were not supposed to smoke in the cabin but none of the employees stopped them (you will find in much of Asia that such rules and laws are followed far less strictly).

a warning to OP and others, do NOT take the train in China. I had my chicken stolen on the train, I knew people who've been robbed all of her luggage (ok, all of them consisted of 1 duffel bag, but still she's out of money). I know many who will sleep with either a beer bottle or a noodle rolling stick by their side on the train, and I suggest OP keep a keen eye on his surrounding, especially during stops or when the train is slowed down. And maybe bring a stick or too. Last year i took the train I had my camera bag right by my face tied to my arm. The train has changed, it isn't possible to steal your chicken from window because it doesn't open anymore, however the clientele hasn't, it's still one of the trashiest way to travel.
 

AstroManLuca

Lifer
Jun 24, 2004
15,628
5
81
I'm not OP, but if I may be so bold as to answer some of the questions based on my experiences from when I lived there from 2006-07...

Originally posted by: AreaCode707
What's the overall attitude towards the Chinese government as it has been expressed to you? Have you encountered any rigidity in what you're allowed to see/where you're allowed to go, questioning or complications, because you're a westerner?

(My dad works in China about 3 weeks out of every quarter and he's occasionally followed or questioned by gov employees, just run of the mill stuff.)

I was never prevented from going places or seeing certain things because of my status as a westerner. My parents definitely were, but they were in China in 1980-81. They had handlers and everything. But I pretty much had free reign. Over the Chinese New Year break, I traveled to a couple of other cities completely independent of the university that had hired me. My parents could never have done that.

People were pretty open about political issues too. One on one discussions and small discussion groups are perfectly okay. The only types of speech the government really frowns on are things that reach a lot of people, like major demonstrations, large speeches in front of hundreds of people, or online postings. That's still a big problem I have with them but it's not like they have government moles everywhere looking for dissenters.

Originally posted by: KeithTalent
Have you seen a KFC yet?

KT

OMG that must be the most popular American restaurant in the country! There were several KFCs in Xi'an, including one near the center of the city (by all the big tourist hotels) that was several levels high and could seat hundreds of people. Never went to that one but it's very popular and it has inspired several Chinese chain restaurants to open serving fried chicken as well.

BTW, ivan2, I took the train from Xi'an to Beijing, a 14-hour ride with just one brief stop, and didn't have any problems. I was actually quite impressed - they had some people walking up and down the aisles selling ready to eat meals like cup noodles and provided hot water between the train cars. There was also no smoking on the train, only in the passages between the cars! That I was particularly impressed with. Based on my parents' accounts, I was afraid the train ride was going to be loud, dark, smelly, full of smoke, and perhaps with some livestock running around or a bunch of men squatting over a grimy card game while smoking and spitting. It was in fact quite civilized. But maybe I got lucky.
 

KeithTalent

Elite Member | Administrator | No Lifer
Administrator
Nov 30, 2005
50,231
118
116
Yeah I know about the KFCs over there guys, it was a joke. :laugh:

KT
 

zerocool84

Lifer
Nov 11, 2004
36,041
472
126
My mom went to China about a month ago. She came back with a couple "Couch" purses. Yes I meant to spell it that way.
 

tk149

Diamond Member
Apr 3, 2002
7,253
1
0
I took an overnight train ride from Kunming. It sounds like you had the same experience as I did. Although my train kept stopping during the night for no apparent reason (livestock on the tracks?), and I slept pretty poorly.

I was pretty paranoid because I had earlier read about a woman being raped on a train, surrounded by other passengers, and I was worried about my friend on the other side of the wall.

I didn't experience the "foreigner" stare. Other people mistook me for a native Chinese, at least until I opened my mouth. I'm from the midwest US.
 

Locut0s

Lifer
Nov 28, 2001
22,205
43
91
Originally posted by: AreaCode707
What's the overall attitude towards the Chinese government as it has been expressed to you? Have you encountered any rigidity in what you're allowed to see/where you're allowed to go, questioning or complications, because you're a westerner?

(My dad works in China about 3 weeks out of every quarter and he's occasionally followed or questioned by gov employees, just run of the mill stuff.)

What kind of work does your father do? We have a friend that works here as a lawyer and never encounters anything like that. As for government presence you do see a lot of police and officials but they never so much as look at us. The Chinese people themselves have a very mixed view of their government. They don't necessarily want western style governance and feel that they have done a very god job with the economy. They are also a VERY patriotic people. However they don't trust much of the party line either. You still see communist slogans on banners all over the place but they are simply ignored.
 

Locut0s

Lifer
Nov 28, 2001
22,205
43
91
Originally posted by: ivan2
-Currently just got into Guilin after a torturous train trip. About 30 hours on the train with a 4 hours transfer stop in between. We had hard bunks on the train but they were not in their own rooms, 6 to a "cubicle". Fairly cramped but you get used to it after a while. Thankfully the trains were air conditioned as it's 30 deg C out with 100% humidity. Using the squat toilets on the train wasn't the most fun what with the overpowering smell of urine, dirty floors and what not. And of course like every other public washroom in Asia, no toilet paper or soap. If you come traveling anywhere in Asia plan on bringing your own soap and toilet paper with you (this isn't just in china). It was interesting to see the train personnel walking up and down the isles hawking merchandise like toys, bill counterfeit detectors and more. There was also an open food cart that went up and down the isles selling noodles, rice and more. At one point the people on the lower bunk light a cigarette filling the upper bunks with smoke. They were not supposed to smoke in the cabin but none of the employees stopped them (you will find in much of Asia that such rules and laws are followed far less strictly).

a warning to OP and others, do NOT take the train in China. I had my chicken stolen on the train, I knew people who've been robbed all of her luggage (ok, all of them consisted of 1 duffel bag, but still she's out of money). I know many who will sleep with either a beer bottle or a noodle rolling stick by their side on the train, and I suggest OP keep a keen eye on his surrounding, especially during stops or when the train is slowed down. And maybe bring a stick or too. Last year i took the train I had my camera bag right by my face tied to my arm. The train has changed, it isn't possible to steal your chicken from window because it doesn't open anymore, however the clientele hasn't, it's still one of the trashiest way to travel.

Your chicken?!

Yes theft is a problem all over the place. One does have to watch their stuff very carefully. But I wouldn't go so far as to say don't take the train at all.
 

Locut0s

Lifer
Nov 28, 2001
22,205
43
91
Originally posted by: zerocool84
My mom went to China about a month ago. She came back with a couple "Couch" purses. Yes I meant to spell it that way.

Couch purse? You mean really large purses or is this an innuendo for something else? ;)
 

AreaCode707

Lifer
Sep 21, 2001
18,447
133
106
Originally posted by: Locut0s
Originally posted by: AreaCode707
What's the overall attitude towards the Chinese government as it has been expressed to you? Have you encountered any rigidity in what you're allowed to see/where you're allowed to go, questioning or complications, because you're a westerner?

(My dad works in China about 3 weeks out of every quarter and he's occasionally followed or questioned by gov employees, just run of the mill stuff.)

What kind of work does your father do? We have a friend that works here as a lawyer and never encounters anything like that. As for government presence you do see a lot of police and officials but they never so much as look at us. The Chinese people themselves have a very mixed view of their government. They don't necessarily want western style governance and feel that they have done a very god job with the economy. They are also a VERY patriotic people. However they don't trust much of the party line either. You still see communist slogans on banners all over the place but they are simply ignored.

Recruiting manager of a team that recruits Chinese nationals back to China for management positions. Works for "gigantic company x".

More precisely he's been approached repeatedly at tourist destinations by "local" couples and been read a script of questions (where are you from, where do you work, why are you here, etc.), probably to make sure his answers are consistent. Always polite.
 

Locut0s

Lifer
Nov 28, 2001
22,205
43
91
Originally posted by: AreaCode707
Originally posted by: Locut0s
Originally posted by: AreaCode707
What's the overall attitude towards the Chinese government as it has been expressed to you? Have you encountered any rigidity in what you're allowed to see/where you're allowed to go, questioning or complications, because you're a westerner?

(My dad works in China about 3 weeks out of every quarter and he's occasionally followed or questioned by gov employees, just run of the mill stuff.)

What kind of work does your father do? We have a friend that works here as a lawyer and never encounters anything like that. As for government presence you do see a lot of police and officials but they never so much as look at us. The Chinese people themselves have a very mixed view of their government. They don't necessarily want western style governance and feel that they have done a very god job with the economy. They are also a VERY patriotic people. However they don't trust much of the party line either. You still see communist slogans on banners all over the place but they are simply ignored.

Recruiting manager of a team that recruits Chinese nationals back to China for management positions. Works for "gigantic company x".

More precisely he's been approached repeatedly at tourist destinations by "local" couples and been read a script of questions (where are you from, where do you work, why are you here, etc.), probably to make sure his answers are consistent. Always polite.

Perhaps because his job entails recruiting Chinese people to travel overseas they may be nervous about his intentions. However that is the first time I have heard of such treatment. Millions of tourists visit china every year and I know for a fact that the vast majority are not harassed by officials much beyond things involving paperwork, passports and the like.

Or perhaps they are just real local couples? Like I was saying above many Chinese people have a fairly distorted view of westerners and will often ask many such questions in a friendly manner.
 

Locut0s

Lifer
Nov 28, 2001
22,205
43
91
Originally posted by: tk149
I took an overnight train ride from Kunming. It sounds like you had the same experience as I did. Although my train kept stopping during the night for no apparent reason (livestock on the tracks?), and I slept pretty poorly.

I was pretty paranoid because I had earlier read about a woman being raped on a train, surrounded by other passengers, and I was worried about my friend on the other side of the wall.

I didn't experience the "foreigner" stare. Other people mistook me for a native Chinese, at least until I opened my mouth. I'm from the midwest US.

Although violence is something you have to be wary of anywhere you go China is on the whole one of the better countries you could visit in this regard. The big cities are pretty much safe 24/7 aside from pickpocketing. Some of the smaller cities and towns may have some rougher locals after dark but nothing compared to many other countries. As for the foreigner star that's probably because while being 1/2 Chinese I look almost 100% white. That and I'm a big guy at 6 foot 2 and 240 lbs. I also have really long hair, hell I get looks back home lol.
 

Locut0s

Lifer
Nov 28, 2001
22,205
43
91
I don't know if the comparison has ever been made but the Chinese strike me as being emotionally much like the Italians. They are both hot blooded, easy to anger easy to friendship. They can be extremely kind and helpful. Children here are fussed over and spoiled to no end. Peoples faces light up when they see a small child and will go out of their way to talk to the child and their parents. This reminds me very much of the Italian view of Children as "bambini". They too spoil their children to no end and often someones child will be a conversation starter. They are both a proud people often given to boasting about their accomplishments. They are both a very patriotic people.
 

Locut0s

Lifer
Nov 28, 2001
22,205
43
91
Originally posted by: AstroManLuca
BTW, ivan2, I took the train from Xi'an to Beijing, a 14-hour ride with just one brief stop, and didn't have any problems. I was actually quite impressed - they had some people walking up and down the aisles selling ready to eat meals like cup noodles and provided hot water between the train cars. There was also no smoking on the train, only in the passages between the cars! That I was particularly impressed with. Based on my parents' accounts, I was afraid the train ride was going to be loud, dark, smelly, full of smoke, and perhaps with some livestock running around or a bunch of men squatting over a grimy card game while smoking and spitting. It was in fact quite civilized. But maybe I got lucky.

Yeah my description above makes it sound worse than it is. Back in the 80s when we road the train it was a lot worse. Still not like you describe but it was harder. No air conditioning, smoke filled cabins, people spitting on the floors all over the place etc etc... It's not that bad now. India is more like you were worried about from what I understand.