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Toyota tundra

Theslowone

Golden Member
Has anyone here change their spark plugs in their tundra(v6). The layout is strange to me for i am use to the normal distributor cap with one wire going to it and 6 or 8 leaving. This doesn't have a distributor and appears only to have 3 wires.

I will probably take it to toyota to get my plugs changed but i was looking at better wires as well.

Just wondering what system does this work on. It looks like it has three boxes on one side of the engine and the three wires run from it to the other side.
 
If it's a late model, it probably has direct ignition, each plug has it's own coil. It won't have a distributor and the usual spark plug wires.
 
Sorry I don't have any help for you, but my Toyota is the biggest PITA to changed the plugs in. The throttle body sits directly over two of them so you have to take it apart, and the valve cover gaskets leak so you have to siphon the oil out of there. Bleh. I should have just replaced them when I had it all apart anyway, but alas I am a glutton for punishment. 🙁
 
OS is correct, that V6 has DIS (Direct Ignition System)

Carefully remove the 10mm bolt(s) that hold the coil(s) on, carefully lift coil(s), R&R plugs, reinstall coil(s).
 
I don't have a Tundra but I have the same 5VZ-FE 3.4L V6 in my Tacoma.
Its a distributor-less system - has ignition coils
Its a V6- so it will have 6 plugs (3 on each side)
the three that are easily visible are on the driver's side
The three that are hidden are on the passenger's side
To get to the Passenger's side plugs/plug wires, remove the air intake tube that connects the Air Filter box & the Throttle body. ( you might as well clean your throttle body while your at it)

I was able to buy the factory (Denso) dual electrode spark plugs for about $1.40 each from the dealer.

I would just get a hold of the Haynes Manual (the tacoma/T100 manual has info on the 5VZ-FE if there is not a Tundra manual yet) - Its also recommended to use a bit of anti-sieze compund on the plug threads and to use a small section of tubing to replace the plugs (to avoid cross-threading) and torque to factory specs.
 
I as a professional do not agree with the use of antisieze on spark plug threads, it retards the heat transfer from the plug to the head thereby increasing spark plug temps and increasing the possibility of preignition.
 
Originally posted by: Roger
I as a professional do not agree with the use of antisieze on spark plug threads, it retards the heat transfer from the plug to the head thereby increasing spark plug temps and increasing the possibility of preignition.

I agree with this statement, no anti-sieze... if changed on a regular basis and when it is appropriate, ie a little on the early side, and there is no corrosion or other special case, none should be used. A friend of mine used some on a ford truck, and it had problems for about 1k mi after engine reached operating speeds. I have heard in extreme cases of warped pistons, camshafts, and valves.
 
Thanks for the help everyone. I went to change them the other day and said the hell with it for a while. I will check into getting a book on it. And it is a 2000 tundra.
 
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