Tools for front brake job on an '05 Silverado?

[jlee]

I'll probably be doing pads/rotors on my stepdad's Silverado this week...3hr-ish drive from home and I really don't feel like packing up my whole garage before I leave. What should I toss in the car?

Jack
Jackstands
4-way
Socket set
Pliers (and C clamp...not sure how these calipers get reset)
Hammer
Bigger hammer
PB Blaster
Anti-seize

I'll probably buy a can of brake cleaner for the rotors too.

 

[bruceb]

Torx bit socket for the caliper bolts .. not sure what size.
Also brake lube for the slide pins.
Most GM you can just push the piston back into the caliper.
On some cars with ABS, you may need to command the computer
for the ABS to retract the piston. Check the service manual if you have one.

 

[T2urtle]

do you have to repack the bearings on these? I know some trucks you have to.

 

[Sluggo]

The book recommends red thread locker for the caliper bolts. It also strongly recommends cleaning the factory locking compound off if you are going to re-use the bolts, I used a wire wheel on a bench grinder. You will need something to siphon off some brake fluid if you are going to push the pistons back in the calipers. I used a C Clamp and a small straight bar on the calipers so I could push both pistons back at once. Take a torque wrench for the bolts and the lugnuts. You didn't say back brakes, but if you do them there are probably two different sizes of rear rotors, I think it depends on whether or not you have the trailer towing package.

 

[Howard]

If there are torque specs for any of the nuts or bolts, you should probably have a torque wrench.

 

[IcePickFreak]

Caliper Mounting Front Bolts 108 Nm (80 ft. lbs.)
Caliper Mounting Bracket to Knuckle, Front (15 series) 175 Nm (129 ft. lbs.)
Caliper Mounting Bracket to Knuckle, Front (25/35 series) 300 Nm (221 ft. lbs.)

In case you're looking to do it the proper way. I know I would never do brakes without torquing the calipers & brackets to the proper spec. :awe: Otherwise a big screw driver and you're good to go. Driving there will take far longer than the brake job.

 

[bruceb]

You almost never need to remove the caliper bracket from the knuckle. When changing brake pads or the caliper itself, it is just the 2 caliper slide bolts and if the caliper, then the brake hose.

 

[IcePickFreak]

You almost never need to remove the caliper bracket from the knuckle. When changing brake pads or the caliper itself, it is just the 2 caliper slide bolts and if the caliper, then the brake hose.

He's replacing rotors too.

 

[jlee]

do you have to repack the bearings on these? I know some trucks you have to.

I hope not!

Torx bit socket for the caliper bolts .. not sure what size.
Also brake lube for the slide pins.
Most GM you can just push the piston back into the caliper.
On some cars with ABS, you may need to command the computer
for the ABS to retract the piston. Check the service manual if you have one.

Ah it's a torx bolt deal, aye? Figures..I only have one of those (for Subaru trans/diff drain). I don't have a service manual.

If there are torque specs for any of the nuts or bolts, you should probably have a torque wrench.

Ah good call..that's what I get for making a list after I've been up all night.

Looking around online it seems I need a T55 for the brakes..I'll have to pick one of those up. Thanks everyone!

 

[DietDrThunder]

One other tool I recommend is a wire coat hanger. NEVER let the caliper dangle by the hose. The weight of the caliper will stretch the hose and weaken it, shortening its life, and eventually causing it to form a weak spot that will bulge and possibly fail. Use the wire coat hanger to hang the caliper when you want it out of the way.

 

[fbrdphreak]

One other tool I recommend is a wire coat hanger. NEVER let the caliper dangle by the hose. The weight of the caliper will stretch the hose and weaken it, shortening its life, and eventually causing it to form a weak spot that will bulge and possibly fail. Use the wire coat hanger to hang the caliper when you want it out of the way.

Or a bungee cord, etc.

 

[SparkyJJO]

Whenever I press the piston back in, I always open the bleeder first. Helps keep from pushing old, cruddy brake fluid backward into the lines (plus it makes it easier).

 

[Bartman39]

Whenever I press the piston back in, I always open the bleeder first. Helps keep from pushing old, cruddy brake fluid backward into the lines (plus it makes it easier).

Ditto...:thumbsup: That cruddy brake fluid not only goes into the line but backup into the antilock unit and the master cylinder which is not a good thing and the antilock units used to be quite expensive and suppose they still are... In addition use a clamp on the the brake line to prevent the fluid from even trying to go back into the system... Once the pistons are pressed back all the way in and you have installed everything just open the bleeders one at a time till you get solid fluid...

BTW should only be a 45min to 1 hour job complete even on the ground... Also the only thing a torque wrench should be used for is rods/main & head bolts... Also a hammer might be needed for one thing the rotors if stuck but doubt they will be... Caliper bolts and caliper cradle bolts will be the tougher stuff as they have loctite on them from the factory... No need to reapply it just good and tight will suffice... Also yes it has sealed hub bearings no need to grease just check for bearing play for possible bad hub, do this with the tire/wheel still mounted as its easier to feel the play if there is any and if so its on its way out... This is one of the most simple brake jobs you can do but a few tricks of the trade will keep you out of trouble...

 

[allanon1965]

look, if the factory had locktite on the bolts, it was there for a reason. re-apply locktite to bolts that have it, secondly, a torque wrench is never a bad idea. Our shop requires us to use a torque wrench on practically everything. We do it to keep everything just as the manufacturer had it from the factory.

Every single nut and bolt on a vehicle has a torque spec. They werent published just to waste ink and paper.

 

[SparkyJJO]

To be honest, I didn't own a torque wrench until a few months ago, and I've been working on my car long before then. Brakes and suspension included. I used the german torque spec - gootentite (say it out loud ).

I know, I know, the proper torque is always best, but I didn't have the option a while ago. Hey, everything stayed together so I must have gotten it tight enough

 

[Bartman39]

look, if the factory had locktite on the bolts, it was there for a reason. re-apply locktite to bolts that have it, secondly, a torque wrench is never a bad idea. Our shop requires us to use a torque wrench on practically everything. We do it to keep everything just as the manufacturer had it from the factory.

Every single nut and bolt on a vehicle has a torque spec. They werent published just to waste ink and paper.

No offense but doing it for 30+ years and never had an issue...? But I agree with SparkyJJO in the German term... And the ink and paper is to keep the silly ya-hoo`s from getting sued... If your shop requires it then there was a reason like someone at some point did a goof and cost some $$$... I wont say dont use one but dont you trust yourself...? As for loctite...? GM did not use it on their brake bolts till the new design 1999 trucks came out... A whole different assembly line with a new bunch of weanies that were using robots to put the crap together instead of humans that knew how to do it... The loctite was a safeguard for the frick`in machines...

 

[allanon1965]

i use one because i dont want to be sued by some idiot who thinks his mechanical failure was due to my not using manufacturer specified torque values too many ambulance chasing lawyers these days, I have been doin this 29 years as an ASE Certified Master Auto Tech, and I always use locktite on brake caliper mounting bolts...I have seen too many bolts that were tight, loosen up...the locktite was not because of factory weenies...it was due to the design working the bolts and causing them to loosen up during the expansion and contraction of heating up and cooling down.....

no offense take, I own 3 torque wrenches, one for each appropriate area of repairs
if you trust yourself, then why do you use one for headbolts and rod and mains?
just kiddin...

 

[jlee]

No torx needed for the caliper..but there was a little one - T30 or something - bolting the rotor onto the hub. Weird.

 

[PhoKingGuy]

No torx needed for the caliper..but there was a little one - T30 or something - bolting the rotor onto the hub. Weird.

Put on on the assembly line to make sure the rotor doesnt fall off the car while in production. Not necessary to put it back on when you replace, some aftermarket rotors dont even have the hole for it.

 

[jlee]

Put on on the assembly line to make sure the rotor doesnt fall off the car while in production. Not necessary to put it back on when you replace, some aftermarket rotors dont even have the hole for it.

Ahh, ok. Well we put it back on anyway...job was completed without any interesting happenings, which is good.