To all in doubt of h2o cooling

[aigomorla]

Well, seems like a lot of questions on cooling is coming out so why not go Water? If you stay with the right parts or kit, no one should have any problems if you take your time and do it slowly.

Here is some reasons on why you should watercool.

Her at 100% orthos stable and at my "optimized for power / heat"

You cant get temps that good at 63-65C ambient on air unless u live where it snows. I live in Los Angeles incase you doubt the temps. She's at 1.325V but for some wierd reason ntune reports 1.45 same with my 1.5V setting in the bottom pic

Her at Killing mode

She's only orthos stable for 35-40min so i wouldnt concider this a true overclock. However its long enough for superPI and sysmark b4 she reboots. The highest i can cap her at stable is around 3.1ghz :\ but it takes a GRIP of voltage which i am not happy to keep her at 24/7 last one was at 1.5V


The last one was because people called shins when i said icould push her to 3.1ghz. I think 3.2ghz is good enough proof she can get that high

I'll try to log a 8+ hour orthos prime when i can. Most likely post it after bleach comes out and i watch it today.


Anyhow my loop picture is below

Pic1 of loop
Pic2 of loop
Pic3 of loop


My kit isnt concidered introductory. Nor should a noobie try to minic my loop. Its just a sample of what a starting kit can turn into.

Swiftech Apex <--- hands down one of the best kits you can get. Most are my parts will perform on Par if not a tad bit better then swiftech's kit.

Corsair Nautilius 500 - ive had the pleasure to work with this kit. Its cheap if you can find it on sale. 129.99 This would be a fairly good introductory kit because out of the 129.99, when u upgrade, you can strip the 60 dollar pump inside and add it to your new loop, if you get cooling greedy.

Kits to stay away from:

TT kits = all are trash stay away from them. If u have a TT kit, get close to my temps and i'll concider then okey.

1/4th ID kits, Ummm unless you dont plan to overclock greatly, or u want to cool an XBOX i wouldnt concider 1/4ID kits. 1/4ID is not the same as G1/4 G1/4 is barb spefications. while ID = inner tube diameter.

Zalman Reserators = I had to put this section in because of all the increase interest in it.

Dont get it unless u dont plan to overclock and if silence is your supreme option. Zalman uses aluminum and so does koolance. This means ur going to have to use Gold Plated Blocks or alumnium blocks or you risk corrosion.

DI water is all nonconductive so fall for and expensive coolant since its labeled "non conductive"

FluidXP will leave a waxy residue on your tubes and inside your rad. Its not hard to clean but it looks nasty after a while.

Some type of antialgae fuild is a MUST! the last thing you want to see if green air growing in your tubes.

Some coolants i like to use that are premixed is Promochill PC ICE, and Petra's G11 Additive. Its blue and it has all the nice goody's all in a nice DI premix.

 

[JEDIYoda]

I have a p4 3.2 EE and using the zalman 9500 and also the XP120 (I actually switched them out and reran all the test) with a noless than 1 week of having the computer on 24/7 my regular termps were equal to or 1c-2c higher than ambient room temp.
Which fluctuated between 17c to 25c.....mind you I live on the central coast about 300 miles north of you.


With my P4 3.2 over clocked to 4.4 even over clocked I saw no graeter than a 10 - 12c rise in my temps.
In fact I ran my CPU at 4.4 for several months before I lowered the clock to 4.0.....

So I would say that entry level water cooling I can compete with.

But I believe it`s a given that high$$$$ dollar water cooling is another animal.....

To achieve only marginally better temps you would justify the cost of high $$$ water cooling?

Yes-- I posted my results maybe a little over a year ago!!

Good Luck@!!

 

[CurseTheSky]

Can you get a shot with Core Temp and Orthos both running? I'd like to see what your system runs at when it's hot. Also, how many fans does your case have, do you consider it to be a loud, quiet, or near-silent system, what other hot components (graphics cards, etc.) are you running, and what is the ambient (room) temperature? Finally, AS5 or something different?

I have a Thermaltake (Bigwater, I believe) kit that shipped with my computer. I'll admit it doesn't make leap and bound differences in temperatures, but at the very least it can keep up with the best air coolers of today - with the options to add a GPU and Northbridge block if I like (3x120mm radiator). If I replace the pump, it could probably keep up with the best of them.

With a 70F room, my E6600 sits idle around 32C at 3.4GHz. Under full load, it can spike up to the high 40s.

Edit: I notice you're using the nVidia monitor for your temperatures. I find that it's often 3-7C lower than Intel TAT at idle, and often 3-5C higher at load. Try Core Temp, most agree that it's more accurate.

 

[aigomorla]

ROFLROFL yoda i wouldnt doubt you as you have a insane HSF collection. And yes extreme h2o cooling vs moderate is different. However moderate usually leads to extreme later on when you get greedy.

Greed is a human emotion

But the 2 introductory kits i listed will perform better then air in most cases if done right. And there just stepstones to help progress that evolution should you take care in continuing.

Nautiuis 500 = 149.99 <-- not on sale. Gpu blocks = 49.99 for a decient one.

Your watercooling package is 189.99 to cool both cpu and GPU.

HSF to compete with H2o ~ 60-70 dollars
Video cooler such as VF900 ~ 39.99 dollars

You just need to decide if the extra 70 or so is worth merit on going water or not. But i can tell you one thing, u cant get GFX cards as cool as water.

Also your gonna need a pretty strong fan and heavy heat pipes to keep up with that single radiator. and tiny waterblock.

 

[aigomorla]

Originally posted by: CurseTheSky
Can you get a shot with Core Temp and Orthos both running? I'd like to see what your system runs at when it's hot. Also, how many fans does your case have, do you consider it to be a loud, quiet, or near-silent system, what other hot components (graphics cards, etc.) are you running, and what is the ambient (room) temperature? Finally, AS5 or something different?

I have a Thermaltake (Bigwater, I believe) kit that shipped with my computer. I'll admit it doesn't make leap and bound differences in temperatures, but at the very least it can keep up with the best air coolers of today - with the options to add a GPU and Northbridge block if I like (3x120mm radiator). If I replace the pump, it could probably keep up with the best of them.

With a 70F room, my E6600 sits idle around 32C at 3.4GHz. Under full load, it can spike up to the high 40s.

Edit: I notice you're using the nVidia monitor for your temperatures. I find that it's often 3-7C lower than Intel TAT at idle, and often 3-5C higher at load. Try Core Temp, most agree that it's more accurate.

I use RMClock to messure coretemp instead of coretemp. Coretemp plays nasty with the Expert board and opty.

The ambient taken at the first one was between 63-65F. The second one was taken close to 80F after someone on another forum called shins on me.

Anyhow if you like i'll do her at 2.75 which she is at right now until heat = is reached on orthos or do u want a set time?

As i said i dont like keeping her at 3.0+ghz because it takes 1.55V on my bios setting to make her pass prime for more then 30 min. Plus i hit mid 50's on coretemp which i also am not confortable with. :X

I have a dual radiator design with 120x2 and 120x1. This is not recomended unless u have ample flow.

Blocks:
Apogee <about to get swiped out with my storm since i found out storm blows on quad vs apogee>
2 x DD Maze4 Gpu (if u can afford them get Koolsah NV-79 or ATIR. I had them on my Old setup but gave them to my brother when i got a 8800GTX. There seriously worth the expensive price tag.)
120x2 Black ICE GT Stealth (front)
120x1 BlackIce GT Stealth (rear to help drop extra heat from CPU b4 it hits GPU)
2x D5 Liangs = dont recomend these over Liang DDC's tho.

The total amount of fans in my Mediabox is:
120x2 AF12's on my main radiator
120x1 AF12's on my secondary radiator
100x1 AF (forgot what model number it is) in the rear hd cage
80mm on my PCnC 750 silencer : dont ask me what it is i have no idea
Evercool on my NB
TT Cyclopse Modded on my ram

Sound lvl. I have no dB meter, but i can only hear it when i my DVD drive spins But its silent at 5feet where it sits next to my LCD TV. Ummm i need to get within 1feet to hear the AIR woosh in my front intakes.

And your using the Kandolf LCS i hate you Thats one hell of a beautiful case.
But i like my TJ-07 on my QX better

 

[Zebo]

I do water cooling for silence not performance. You can't hear my computer from 3 ft away and I have decent hardware. Runs hotter than an average water cooling setup but lower than air because 120mm fans are turned down to 5V.

I use all swiftech products no kit.

 

[JEDIYoda]

Originally posted by: Zebo
I do water cooling for silence not performance. You can't hear my computer from 3 ft away and I have decent hardware. Runs hotter than an average water cooling setup but lower than air because 120mm fans are turned down to 5V.

I use all swiftech products no kit.

There are a few other real good rerasons for doing water cooling besides just the temps!!
Alot of people do water just for the reason you stated@!

 

[Noubourne]

Originally posted by: JEDIYoda
I have a p4 3.2 EE and using the zalman 9500 and also the XP120 (I actually switched them out and reran all the test) with a noless than 1 week of having the computer on 24/7 my regular termps were equal to or 1c-2c higher than ambient room temp.
Which fluctuated between 17c to 25c.....mind you I live on the central coast about 300 miles north of you.


With my P4 3.2 over clocked to 4.4 even over clocked I saw no graeter than a 10 - 12c rise in my temps.

So what. You're posting idle temps. Meaningless.

Then you claim it's "overclocked" and claim 10C rise without posting voltage. Also meaningless.

Got any more meaningless stats for us?

 

[JEDIYoda]

Originally posted by: Noubourne

Originally posted by: JEDIYoda
I have a p4 3.2 EE and using the zalman 9500 and also the XP120 (I actually switched them out and reran all the test) with a noless than 1 week of having the computer on 24/7 my regular termps were equal to or 1c-2c higher than ambient room temp.
Which fluctuated between 17c to 25c.....mind you I live on the central coast about 300 miles north of you.


With my P4 3.2 over clocked to 4.4 even over clocked I saw no graeter than a 10 - 12c rise in my temps.

So what. You're posting idle temps. Meaningless.

Then you claim it's "overclocked" and claim 10C rise without posting voltage. Also meaningless.

Got any more meaningless stats for us?

Obviously you have an issue with me so plz take it PM`s.....thx


Now to answer your assumptions....

I will be more clear....

I have a p4 3.2 EE and using the zalman 9500 and also the XP120 (I actually switched them out and reran all the test) with a no less than 1 week of having the computer on 24/7 my regular termps were equal to or 1c-2c higher than ambient room temp.
Which fluctuated between 17c to 25c.....mind you I live on the central coast about 300 miles north of you.


With my P4 3.2 over clocked to 4.4 even over clocked I saw no graeter than a 10 - 12c rise in my temps.

You are assumming I am taking my temps at idle....I took temps at idle and temps under load........

At Idle I saw no increase in my ambient temps......whether 3.2 or 4.4
Idle is idle...no load..etc...etc...

The increase in temps that I was talking about was under load both at 3.2 and 4.4.....running the programs that were suggested on these very forums....
I hardly need to post volatges for you...I was making a statement concerning basic water verses highend air....

I have posted as I stated previously all my stats a little over a year ago........

Have better things to do than argue about what you say I claim .......
I stand by what I said concerning entry level water verses high end aircooling!!

Now what qualifications do you posess to carry on an inteligent conversation concerning aircooling verses water??


By the way I get even better reading under load with the Zalman 9700 and the Tuniq Tower....the Ultra 120 is also very nice~!!

 

[CurseTheSky]

Originally posted by: aigomorla
And your using the Kandolf LCS i hate you Thats one hell of a beautiful case.

Yeah, it's huge too. The original Kandalf looked horrible (IMO) but I love this version. It's definately not a quiet case if you have all of the fans installed, though. Right now I just have a bunch of LED fans going - if I swapped them out for something quieter, I probably wouldn't be able to hear it.

 

[Noubourne]

2c rise over ambient. lol. Measuring with what, your finger?

Your chip is ambient temp after it has been off long enough to cool down. When you turn it on, and push a minimum of 1.3v through it (since you refuse to post voltages), even a cursory grasp on physics would tell you that the temperature in the chip would rise due to it going from 0v to 1.3v. No air cooler can do that. None.

So again, let me state that your only addition to this thread is to confuse and misinform. Nobody on air cooling on a modern processor has a 2c delta between the chip being turned OFF (ambient), and the chip being turned on (idle). It's just not possible. You are not measuring accurately and your information is bogus.

 

[JEDIYoda]

Originally posted by: Noubourne
2c rise over ambient. lol. Measuring with what, your finger?

Your chip is ambient temp after it has been off long enough to cool down. When you turn it on, and push a minimum of 1.3v through it (since you refuse to post voltages), even a cursory grasp on physics would tell you that the temperature in the chip would rise due to it going from 0v to 1.3v. No air cooler can do that. None.

So again, let me state that your only addition to this thread is to confuse and misinform. Nobody on air cooling on a modern processor has a 2c delta between the chip being turned OFF (ambient), and the chip being turned on (idle). It's just not possible. You are not measuring accurately and your information is bogus.

Lets see you say its not possible yet I have posted my temps previously....
I have posted the ambient temps as well as the ambients temps inside my casde at idle and under load for a prolonged period od time...

I have also done the same when over clocked.....


Just because your knowledge of cooling a computer does not allow you to get as low readeing as I get thats not my problem.

If you do some research you will find that many people have achieved a 1c--5c temperature from the chip being turned off and turned on...possible YES happens alot.
With alot of work involved.

Other than your opinion which has not been supported by any documented facts..
I fail to see your point...
Other than to put your foot in your mouth.

It`s very possible to do as I have done.
Your logic does not hold up in real world application...
Of course I had 2- 120 mm fans in the front of my case....
2-120mm fans in the rear of my case.....
1--80mm fan on the side panel and one zalman slim fan inside my case moving air from the dead spot which was right where the memory goes.....

I used a digital thermometer (which is quite easy to calibrate if you need to)such as the one used at overclockers.com only a better quality thermometer as well as other measuring devices/programs.

So once again I ask you what is your problem?

If done properly with a lot of trial and error others have also achieved close to those temps...

Good Luck on your quest to mirror my results@!!

 

[aigomorla]

hey guys, sorry ive been away working on the QX. I finally came up with enough cash to buy either a PCnC 1KW or the silverstone OP1000.

Anyhow, i havent had time to get to the prime on my coretemps, my opty has been moved next to the TV and the QX next to my desk.

Also Noubourne, the only thing i dont agree with yoda on is the use of TIMs. But i dont want him to stur up another TIM debate so im dropping it here. Other then that, you have NO idea how large his HSF collection is. You cant concider Yoda like the average user in Air cooled HSF. He'll find a way to milk it to do more then its raited at.

However, he wont be able to mask my delta from idle to load because he cant bend the rules of physics.

*TRUST ME ON THAT*

As for my deltas, i'll need to get back to you guys on this. I had to do some reogranizing. And also i had to move the Opty downstairs and Prep my X2 as a new NAS. So i havent had much time on. But i'll do them as soon as im done with the NAS and the QX.

Hopefully sometime this week my QX will be completed...
(waiting for my final D-tek Block but they deliver sooooooooooooooooooooooo slow)

(Hopefully!)

 

[JEDIYoda]

Originally posted by: aigomorla
hey guys, sorry ive been away working on the QX. I finally came up with enough cash to buy either a PCnC 1KW or the silverstone OP1000.

Anyhow, i havent had time to get to the prime on my coretemps, my opty has been moved next to the TV and the QX next to my desk.

Also Noubourne, the only thing i dont agree with yoda on is the use of TIMs. But i dont want him to stur up another TIM debate so im dropping it here. Other then that, you have NO idea how large his HSF collection is. You cant concider Yoda like the average user in Air cooled HSF. He'll find a way to milk it to do more then its raited at.

However, he wont be able to mask my delta from idle to load because he cant bend the rules of physics.

*TRUST ME ON THAT*

As for my deltas, i'll need to get back to you guys on this. I had to do some reogranizing. And also i had to move the Opty downstairs and Prep my X2 as a new NAS. So i havent had much time on. But i'll do them as soon as im done with the NAS and the QX.

Hopefully sometime this week my QX will be completed...
(waiting for my final D-tek Block but they deliver sooooooooooooooooooooooo slow)

(Hopefully!)

Yes--TIM`s are something that if you don`t place them prop[erly where they should be placed it can and will skewer readings.
I would have to say I taken temps using tims and not using TIM`s.....
There are many ways to get proper temp readings with and without the use of TIM`s!!

Yeah brand of TIM`s also comes intoi play....nice to have ya back!!
Glad to see you are back!! agomoria!!

 

[aigomorla]

heh... i more ment on brand of TIM. then on application. :X

BUT ANYHOW!~

30 min Burn in

Load core temps are as follows 28C
Ambient temps ~ 60C

Idle Temps were around 17C ... a tad bit higher due to the higher clock on my gfx cards.
Just edited this as i checked her temp right now. Anyhow last post b4 bed

Heres where it gets good for you guys also... That burn test also did 30min of RTHDRIBL. Max load temp on 572mhz OC 7900GT was 30C. Idle would be the temp on the 2nd 7900GT as it wasnt in SLI. EDIT: Idle was just messured at 25C


So hmmmmm.... like to see if AIR could do this...


I'll do the more accurate 2h test later when i have time because right now the media center is being used by my family to its full extent. (more like spaming anime left and right by brother and his friends)