Do you tow right at your weight limit, or a good % of that, down long mountain roads? Did you experience any loss of brake performance before they were near worn out? If not,the Powerstop are overkill, the stock brakes are designed to handle normal use up to the full tow rating.
However if you have experienced brake fade from extended application, like going down long hills, you might want to flush the brake fluid at this point, if you haven't yet. All 4 wheels, starting with furthest away (via the brake line routing) and so on till the nearest the ABS module. That is a topic onto itself, make sure the master cylinder reservoir doesn't go empty to keep air in the line or there are tools or have a mechanic do it.
Have you checked your brake pads for wear and rotors for uneven wear? Normally there is no need to do both the front and rear axles at the same time, just the left and right sides of same axle at same time. The main reason to get all 4 done at once is if it is more convenient and cheaper to have a shop do all 4 at once. Otherwise, front vs rear seldom wear out at that close to the same rate, so it makes far less sense to replace all 4 at once if DIY.
Your vehicle is extremely popular, supported by practically every major brand pad or rotor and all should work fine for their intended purpose, though cheap pads tend to be noisy. I just wouldn't get some generic Chinese brand pad or rotor that nobody has heard of besides on ebay or amazon, and some brands offer a lower tier rotor (in addition to their higher tier(s)) that may not be machined to as tight a tolerance which can accelerate wear, glazing and pseudo-warping hard spots on the rotor. The lower tier "can" work fine but that's the nature of a wider tolerance, that one may be closer to perfect than another specimen.
If you're not pushing the limits, you'll get longest life out of non-slotted or drilled (blank) rotors, and standard semi-metallic pads, though your original equipment pads may be ceramic and if you *upgrade* to semi-metallic for more stopping power than you need, you'll have better cold weather performance (at first, it does not take long for a brake pad to warm up) but also a lot dirtier wheels. Your vehicle is capable of towing several thousand lbs and has/had brakes to do that.
When you aren't towing, your stock brakes (in good condition) exceed the traction that street tires can provide. They're set up for more than twice your vehicle weight. The tires will lose traction and ABS will kick in before the stock pads or rotors (again in good condition) become the limitation in braking.
This is different than on some sedan, but if you do tow more than ~2 tons down long hills, extreme duty semi-metallic pads and slotted rotors might be the ticket, as well as coated rotors if you lve in the rust belt because that keeps cooling air flowing through their vanes better, though you now have 7 years on it, the coating usually doesn't last
that long, and there will be the trade-off of shorter rotor lifespan with higher friction coefficient pads.
Visit R1 Concepts to learn how to choose the right brake rotor pattern from drilled and slotted rotors to blank or slotted only, we'll help you choose!
www.r1concepts.com
Given the high # of viable choices, it might help to know where you intend to buy them. I usually get pads or rotors at Rock Auto or Amazon, or locally at Autozone the Duralast Gold lifetime pads for vehicles I plan to keep past the next pad change (but not their rotors which are more overpriced for what they are and no lifetime warranty). They don't even care if pads you bring in for exchange are completely worn out or not.
