Time for air filter and spark plug replacement

[996GT2]

So my Accord is in need of a new air filter and some other parts (spark plugs, etc) for its 60k service interval (currently sitting at about 188,000 miles). Dealership quoted about $550 just to change a few simple parts and inspect things like valve clearance and distributor, but I really don't think that's worth it for such an old car (hand-down from parents, they have an 07 Lexus and an 03 Accord EX-L). So I'm just going to replace the parts by myself, since air filter/spark plug replacement isn't too hard. BTW, I'm still a HS student, but I think my knowledge of cars is enough to do the relatively simple replacements mentioned above.

I'm wondering whether the K&N filters would be worth the price premium over a generic brand paper filter, since they seem to cost about $15-20 more. Do they really filter better and give a very slight performance boost over the paper kind? I've read elsewhere that the gains from an aftermarket filter come at the expense of filtration quality.

As far as spark plugs go, I'm just planning to stick with the OEM recommended NGK copper spark plugs over more expensive platinum or iridium.

 

[rootaxs]

I vote for DIY. Plug changes on an Accord is relatively easy (compared to mine where i have to take off the upper manifold to access the rear banks), as long as you have the proper tools and know how to use a spark plug wrench (Along with the proper torque specs) you should be fine.

K&N filters are good, but you will most likely not notice the gains. The main advantage to the K&N is you can clean it anytime you wish. I wash and re-oil mine every 7.5k miles. I have 102k on my car now so the K&N has more than paid for itself over time.

Going back to the plugs, go with OEM recommendations. Copper is a very good conductor so there's nothing wrong going that route. Platinum is good only if you go longer intervals between plug changes.

 

[franksta]

The filtration of a K&N filter is good if you maintain it. I think it's performance increase over a regular paper filter is unnoticeable. I had my oil analyzed after my last oil change and the lab seems to think my air filtration is working well. I've been using the K&N for the entire 7 years I've owned my truck. My oil analysis

Definitely stick with what the factory recommends as far as spark plugs go and make sure you set the gap appropriately.

 

[Zenmervolt]

K&N filter worse than paper filters (but still more than adequate), that's how they flow better. It's not enough of a difference though to make any kind of real-world impact. Of course, the power gain is also so small that you won't notice it. Just use a regular paper filter. You won't make up the price difference of a K&N on a car that old.

Copper plugs are the best performers out there, but they require replacement every 30,000 miles. The reason that platinum and iridium plugs are often used is simply because they last longer. For a car like the Accord, it won't matter if you use copper or platinum plugs, just make sure they are the correct spec for the car and are gapped correctly.

ZV

 

[c3p0]

I don't about your Accord, but changing spark plugs on some V6, front drive passenger cars is no simple task. Some cars require you to unbolt engine/transmission mounts and then rotate the engine upward to expose the rear spark plugs. So before you choose to do it yourself, I would suggest you get more information on what it takes to change these "few simple parts". Also, if you put the wrong spark plug in your Accord and the piston plug clearance is not sufficient, you'll be rebuilding the engine.

As for the K&N Air Filter, you would probably be better off just using an OEM type filter for replacement. An Accord with 188,000 miles on it won't benefit much, if any, from an after-market performance filter such as K&N.

Also, most Automotive Manufacturers stopped using distributors in the mid to late 1980's. So unless your Accord is from that vintage, it probably has a solid state ignition system.

Good luck with your tune-up!!!

c3p0
:beer:

 

[Summitdrinker]

as for plugs it just depends on how much longer you will own the car, how many miles you drive etc
I just put platinums in my mercury with 216,000 miles on it, will it be on the road in 50,000 more miles???????? it just maybe
to me the small extra cost of the standard platinum plugs is worth the extra price in the long run just to save me work down the road, changing the plugs in the 4.6 V8 isn't real tuff, but it's not a 10 minute job neither

 

[Zenmervolt]

Originally posted by: c3p0
Also, most Automotive Manufacturers stopped using distributors in the mid to late 1980's. So unless your Accord is from that vintage, it probably has a solid state ignition system.

No, solid state ignitions did not become commonplace until the late 1990's. Hell, my 1998 Volvo still uses a distributor. Now, the coil itself is solid-state, but it still uses a distributor. Coil packs started appearing fairly commonly on luxury cars in the early to middle 1990's, but took a few years to trickle down. The 4-cylinder engine for Accords was using a distributor at least as late as 2002. Even the J30A1 V6 used in 2002 had a distributor.

ZV

 

[steppinthrax]

Yeah,

My 94 altima has a distributor.

 

[c3p0]

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt

Originally posted by: c3p0
Also, most Automotive Manufacturers stopped using distributors in the mid to late 1980's. So unless your Accord is from that vintage, it probably has a solid state ignition system.

No, solid state ignitions did not become commonplace until the late 1990's. Hell, my 1998 Volvo still uses a distributor. Now, the coil itself is solid-state, but it still uses a distributor. Coil packs started appearing fairly commonly on luxury cars in the early to middle 1990's, but took a few years to trickle down. The 4-cylinder engine for Accords was using a distributor at least as late as 2002. Even the J30A1 V6 used in 2002 had a distributor.

ZV

I apologize. I should have been a bit more clear. I do not know the Honda Accord specifics, but many American cars have been using distributor-less ignition systems from the late 1980's or early 1990's. So I just assumed his Accord might fall in to the years where distributors started disappearing. My point was to make sure you know what parts your car requires before considering whether or not you should do the work yourself, or take it to a mechanic....that's all.

c3p0
:beer:

 

[chucky2]

Read here for a nice study on K&N's:

ISO 5011 Duramax Air Filter Test Report

Chuck

 

[imported_Truenofan]

man, i hope to never own a longitudinal mounted engine..i think my mom's spark plugs are the same, gotta remove the intake to get to them on the far bank. mine are kinda hard since they're on the side of the engine, gotta use at least one elbow. i wouldn't go with K&N filters personally, go with your OEM filters if you can, i know on my car, they are the near the best, if not the best for mine, same with spark plugs, some of the OEM parts are very good.

i know mine has two solid state coils that send two different sparks to the engine(leading and trailing). they had coils back in the 80's but ZV is right, they aren't in every car nowadays. i think its just most engines don't require that powerful of a spark even now, i know the coils to the turbo version of mine are good for around 350-400rwhp and those are stock(i know someone with a 380whp 7 with the stock 80's rx-7 coils)....just don't need that much in a economy car that wont be pushing that hard.(except most modern sports cars.) they're probably making the change in recent years since everyone thinks that distributors aren't that efficient somehow and they need more modern ignition systems. coils i would guess are just more reliable since there arent any moving parts, just curious, how long does a distributor last.(i'm going to put this out now before i get flamed, this is all opinion, except the first sentence about 7's.)

 

[NokiaDude]

On platinums, I would go for Iridiums since they have a smaller diameter electrode that concentrates the spark. The larger the electrode, the more energy it takes to jump the gap. You can get a fantastic deal on iridiums from sparkplugs.com, that's where I ordered my NGK iridiums for $12 a piece compared to almost $20 a pop Kragen wanted.

 

[Summitdrinker]

12 dollar each is too much for me and my old car, I will stick to the 2 to 3 dollars each for standard plats

 

[996GT2]

I ended up getting a FRAM OEM-Type air filter and 4 Denso OEM-style copper plugs. Total cost was only around 20 bucks...a lot better than what the dealer would have charged me to do the same service.

Quick question though...is it ok for the spark plug gap to be off by a slight amount (maybe .05 mm)? I have a circular type spark plug gap gauge, but it's impossible to get the exact same gap on all 4 plugs. BTW, OE recommended gap is 1.1mm (.44").

 

[Howard]

Originally posted by: NokiaDude
On platinums, I would go for Iridiums since they have a smaller diameter electrode that concentrates the spark. The larger the electrode, the more energy it takes to jump the gap. You can get a fantastic deal on iridiums from sparkplugs.com, that's where I ordered my NGK iridiums for $12 a piece compared to almost $20 a pop Kragen wanted.

No, the spark jumps from the closest/sharpest points.

 

[imported_Truenofan]

re-adjust them to whatever the closest you can get it to be is what i would do. (don't have an adjustable gap on mine)

 

[Summitdrinker]

don't worry about the gap being exact, my spec was 0.052 to 0.056, I gapped them at about 0.049, I like them a little tight, for less load on the system esp old plug wires, even plats open up with miles, I gapped them at 0.048 last time, one bank on the v8 was close to 0.060 after 70,000 miles or so, that bank was running leaner, I took care of that issue.

just try to get then fairly close and even (uniform) gap wise

 

[BD2003]

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
K&N filter worse than paper filters (but still more than adequate), that's how they flow better. It's not enough of a difference though to make any kind of real-world impact. Of course, the power gain is also so small that you won't notice it. Just use a regular paper filter. You won't make up the price difference of a K&N on a car that old.

Indeed.

And dont underestimate how much of a royal pain in the ass it is to re-oil those filters. It isnt a 5 minute process - it requires hours for the filter to dry, and you wont be driving until its done.

 

[Gillbot]

Originally posted by: BD2003

Originally posted by: Zenmervolt
K&N filter worse than paper filters (but still more than adequate), that's how they flow better. It's not enough of a difference though to make any kind of real-world impact. Of course, the power gain is also so small that you won't notice it. Just use a regular paper filter. You won't make up the price difference of a K&N on a car that old.

Indeed.

And dont underestimate how much of a royal pain in the ass it is to re-oil those filters. It isnt a 5 minute process - it requires hours for the filter to dry, and you wont be driving until its done.

I always advise people to stay away from K&N filters.