tick tick tick + light flashing in small fridge

[Red Squirrel]

I have a small fridge I keep in my closet and I noticed it is doing this tick tick tick sound (when the thermostat is on) and the light flashes accordingly with the ticks.

If I turn the thermostat high enough it stops but I hear a "air" sound, almost like air escaping from an air compressor. (freon leak?) If I unplug it, I don't hear any sound. It's in a very awkward location to take out, and it's hard to tell if it's still cold or not (seems cold, but maybe its just cold from when it worked?) so I cranked it to the max to see if it gets colder.

What do you think would cause this? I am thinking it is in fact the compressor. It's too bad though as it's hardly a year old.

 

[funkymatt]

load it up with jugs of water or something if you want to tell if it's cooling down.

 

[Perknose]

Originally posted by: RedSquirrel
If I unplug it, I don't hear any sound.

Problem solved! Wait . . . :shocked:

 

[Perknose]

Originally posted by: funkymatt
load it up with jugs of water or something if you want to tell if it's cooling down.

BIG JUGS! (I like big jugs.) :laugh:

 

[zerocool84]

Originally posted by: Perknose

Originally posted by: funkymatt
load it up with jugs of water or something if you want to tell if it's cooling down.

BIG JUGS! (I like big jugs.) :laugh:

You motorboatin SOB.

 

[Crono]

The compressor. Or a bomb.

 

[Red Squirrel]

Yep think I just confirmed it's the compressor or the motor that drives it (all one piece I imagine, don't feel like taking it apart now). Seems to be shorting out or something, think the motor itself maybe. There is no heat on the coils and there should be at least some. The fans in the back are also shaking like they want to try to turn but the tick cuts off power to them twice per second or so.

Kinda sucks, it's not even a year old. Oh well, I'm moving into my own house soon anyway. Not even sure where to dispose of a fridge around here, I'll have to find out locally.

When I get more time I'll see if I can take it appart but don't think there's much serviceable parts. Don't want to cause the gas to leak out either, that would be bad. That stuff is lethal.

 

[Red Squirrel]

I just confirmed that it's actually the circuit board on the back. I think one of the capacitors is going on it, but not sure. It does seem like it's an electronic issue though.

It is a Honeywell model 88031 and it seems some people online have had this same issue. It's better described as a pulsing.

 

[BoomerD]

Sounds to me like the self-destruct sequence has activated.

 

[Red Squirrel]

I just figured it out. I need to get a digital converter box for it.

 

[zerocool84]

Did a mouse pop out of the compressor?

 

[Rastus]

With the light flashing, it sounds like a loose connection to me.

Since the light is probably a 120VAC it's probably a loose terminal lug or crimp on the line side of the 24VAC transformer.

 

[Red Squirrel]

Everything seems to be 12vdc. This circuit board appears to just be a custom power supply/distribution board, nothing more then that. Two small transformers, two big capacitors, then everything (fans, the internal LED light, etc) connects on to the board and is labeled as 12v. One terminal is 12v 6 amps, which I think is the compressor as the two wires lead directly into the back of the fridge but one of them passes by a probe of some sort (overheat sensor?). If I unplug it, the ticking stops but I can still hear that it's suffering trying to supply power. Almost like boiling water or something. I tried various sources of 12 volts from a regular power adapter to a pc power supply but could not get the compressor to run directly. None of these sources were rated for 6 amps though which is probably why.

 

[Modelworks]

The compressor probably uses AC not DC. It would take a lot more current than 6 amps @ 12VDC to run a compressor. Usually on a compressor there is a relay. The relay connects with a capacitor to the run/start/common pins on the compressor. It uses the capacitor to jump start the compressor then cuts power to the start pin leaving the run pin connected. The power to the relay usually goes through a thermal switch that cuts power if it overheats. That is the basic design of how a compressor hooks up to the power.

If a compressor fails to start the relay will disengage and wait for a short time then try again. That can sound like a click click sound. One easy fix is to use what they call a hard start. You can get one for about $15. It is a relay already wired up with a larger capacitor to start weak compressors.

example:
http://www.azpartsmaster.com/P...Start-Kit__B95530.aspx