Thinking about buying a NEW CHEVY TRUCK

Fx02

Member
May 14, 2004
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Im currently in the market of buying a new truck. However, I saw in a Dateline special about a fraud that 95% of auto dealers do, called "price packaging". Is anyone familar with this topic and provide w/ more information and what to watch out for.

From my understanding, and please correct me if i'm wrong, if a Car Sales man quotes me $450 a month for a truck and we go back and forth bargaining, for the best possible deal. I'll still end up getting screwed becuase they'll add more packages to the truck, in return i'll end up paying $490 a month for a truck that I intially got quoted for #450. I believe this is where price packaging comes into play...
 

What's a CHVY?

EDIT: and why would you ever agree to paying MORE than your original agreed-upon price?
 

Fx02

Member
May 14, 2004
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You may not relaize but everyone does. I'm talking where they add in warranty, that should already be included, along w/ some other lame ass deals that they try to screw you for, just to add $$ to the vechile.
 

CPA

Elite Member
Nov 19, 2001
30,322
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Never negotiate monthly amount. Always negotiate total cost, including warranty and any other add-ons. But don't forget to add in tax, title and fees that normally won't come into negotiating total cost.
 

VWhed

Senior member
Jan 23, 2004
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that depends on the dealer, when I bought my truck (2003 Silverado) I was shopping based on payment only. I knew what my limit was and wanted to see what the dealer offered me for that price. I guess it isn't the "best" philosophy,but the monthly payment is the number you have to deal with for the next 5 years. My payments varied about $100 on the same truck, the only thing different was the color. I went with the lowest payment for the lowest term (obviously). I seemed to notice the dealers were screwing with the interest rate more than anything. A friend of mine at the dealership told me that they get a prefered rate like 2.5% and then they try to sell you on like 2.9% or 3.9%, and they get to pocket the difference. The reason they get the prefered rate is because of the volume of sales they do, therefore ABC Chevy (big, lots of sales volume) gets a lower rate with certain banks while XYZ Chevy (small town, lower sales volume) doesn't get the same rates and can't use it for "bargianing power". It all seems to make sense to me, but who am I?
 

TheNinja

Lifer
Jan 22, 2003
12,207
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Originally posted by: CPA
Never negotiate monthly amount. Always negotiate total cost, including warranty and any other add-ons. But don't forget to add in tax, title and fees that normally won't come into negotiating total cost.

Ya, what he said. I ALWAYS negotiate the "out the door" price. I tell them I'm not going to deal with tax, title, license and extra fees after we agree on a price. They will tack on around 10% more onto the sales price if you don't negotiate for an out the door price. So for starters, take the sticker price, tell them you will only deal with out the door final price and then make an offer even lower than the sticker price. My last truck I went $5500 below the "sticker price" for my "out the door" price. Don't be afraid to spend hours negotiating. It may be very tiring to you but the salesmen will start to freak out and sell lower than intended b/c he's already sunk so much time into you, he doesn't want you to walk away without at least a small profit for him.
 

Fx02

Member
May 14, 2004
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Originally posted by: Staley8
Originally posted by: CPA
Never negotiate monthly amount. Always negotiate total cost, including warranty and any other add-ons. But don't forget to add in tax, title and fees that normally won't come into negotiating total cost.

Ya, what he said. I ALWAYS negotiate the "out the door" price. I tell them I'm not going to deal with tax, title, license and extra fees after we agree on a price. They will tack on around 10% more onto the sales price if you don't negotiate for an out the door price. So for starters, take the sticker price, tell them you will only deal with out the door final price and then make an offer even lower than the sticker price. My last truck I went $5500 below the "sticker price" for my "out the door" price. Don't be afraid to spend hours negotiating. It may be very tiring to you but the salesmen will start to freak out and sell lower than intended b/c he's already sunk so much time into you, he doesn't want you to walk away without at least a small profit for him.

Now this is the answer that i've been waiting for. Thanks so much Staley8 and others... This information is useful. I guess i'm ready to step up to the plate. Thanks eveyone!
 

Vic

Elite Member
Jun 12, 2001
50,422
14,337
136
Originally posted by: Fx02
Im currently in the market of buying a new truck. However, I saw in a Dateline special about a fraud that 95% of auto dealers do, called "price packaging". Is anyone familar with this topic and provide w/ more information and what to watch out for.

From my understanding, and please correct me if i'm wrong, if a Car Sales man quotes me $450 a month for a truck and we go back and forth bargaining, for the best possible deal. I'll still end up getting screwed becuase they'll add more packages to the truck, in return i'll end up paying $490 a month for a truck that I intially got quoted for #450. I believe this is where price packaging comes into play...
I have a hard time calling it "fraud". More like uneducated car buyers.

Some tips:

- NEVER negotiate monthly payment. Negotiate purchase price with all options and add-ons ONLY. Buy a financial calculator if necessary for your own convenience, but NEVER even so much as breathe your payment expectations to anyone at the dealership. That is the one card that you must truly hold to your chest yet (for some odd reason) the first thing most people give up the second the walk into the dealership -- "I'd like something in the $450 monthly payment range"... sigh...
- NEVER finance for longer than 60 months (some say not even that long).
- NEVER negotiate your purchase and your trade as though they are part of the same transaction. They are 2 separate transactions. If the salesman breaks out the "foursquare" (sheet of paper divided into 4 sections), tell him to put it away. If he won't put it away, get up and leave. Seriously.
- NEVER allow the salesperson to lie or make surprise changes. Even about small things. First time, I warn them politely with an admonition to not try anything shady again. Second time, I get up and leave.
- Once the deal is settled and you're signing papers with the dealership's closer, NEVER agree to additional add-ons at the closing table. "Free" oil changes for the life of your car, just $15 per month extra? NO. Extended warranty for $20 per month extra? Go to hell. Tru-coat? Fsck you.

Here's the REAL kicker. Many salespeople know that a lot of people will take a bad deal just because they feel somehow committed or badgered. This is why they keep you waiting for hours. They jerk you around, make you invest a bunch of time, then change all the numbers at the closing table. Believe it or not, most people will see all the changes, see the payment increase, grumble for a bit and then sign anyway. Took all day but hey they got the car right? Gives them something to bitch about later I guess.
The point is that is not "fraud". Fraud would be if you signed documents that said $450 per month and when your first billing statement showed up it showed $490 per month. What it is is stupidity. They change the numbers and you don't like the deal anymore? GET UP AND WALK.

That is all :)
 

Pliablemoose

Lifer
Oct 11, 1999
25,195
0
56
Keep an eye on the loss leaders, have a source of outside financing, negotiate a price with & without financing @ the dealership.

Like CPA said, never never negotiate the monthly payment...

The coolest thing I've seen is to get the fax number of several dealerships, spec out your truck on Edmunds, or Cars.com, fax the spect to the dealerships, and accept bids for 48 hours...

Of course I like to buy cheap cars
 

Vic

Elite Member
Jun 12, 2001
50,422
14,337
136
Originally posted by: Staley8
Originally posted by: CPA
Never negotiate monthly amount. Always negotiate total cost, including warranty and any other add-ons. But don't forget to add in tax, title and fees that normally won't come into negotiating total cost.
Ya, what he said. I ALWAYS negotiate the "out the door" price. I tell them I'm not going to deal with tax, title, license and extra fees after we agree on a price. They will tack on around 10% more onto the sales price if you don't negotiate for an out the door price. So for starters, take the sticker price, tell them you will only deal with out the door final price and then make an offer even lower than the sticker price. My last truck I went $5500 below the "sticker price" for my "out the door" price. Don't be afraid to spend hours negotiating. It may be very tiring to you but the salesmen will start to freak out and sell lower than intended b/c he's already sunk so much time into you, he doesn't want you to walk away without at least a small profit for him.
I agree for the most part but why spend hours negotiating? Salesmen don't freak out afraid that you'll walk out on the deal and they wasted their time. To them, that's just one more bit of leverage to hold against you. They even brag to each other about how they have one "on the hook" or "in the box".

Here's how you buy a car in today's modern world:
- Research what you want on the internet. Right down to the last option and color. Do not forget to check out the message boards set up by owners.
- Call up dealerships and schedule test drives of those cars you think you like. Do NOT give them your car's keys, discuss trade-ins, payments, or anything of that nature. DO let them make a copy of your drivers license if they need it for their insurance purposes, but time them 5 minutes max to make the copy. After the test drive, do NOT walk back into the dealership but straight back to your car and drive off. This process should be quick and dirty. In, drive, out. Ideally, you should be able to do it on your lunch hour with time enough to still have lunch.
- After the test drives, you should have narrowed down exactly which car you want to buy. Call and email around to the "internet sales department" of the various local dealerships looking to see who has exactly the car you want in stock and for what price. Do all negotiating over the phone. They offer $XX, tell them that so-and-so dealership will go $XX less. Everything over the phone and email. Be polite and spend minimal time. What you are looking for is to become an instant "mini", or a smart customer where they sell it quick at a minimum just to post a number and clear the dealer's lot of excess inventory. Only fools walk the lot, and after they work a fool for hours, they expect a fat check.
- "Out the door" price is meaningless, because it varies. For example, my state has no vehicle sales or excise taxes. Purchase price, purchase price, purchase price. If you don't see the fee, it's not because it went away, it's because they hid it somewhere.
- Complete credit app, etc. over phone, fax, or e-mail. All from the comfort of home or office. If the vehicle is used and/or you don't quality for ridiculously-low-interest manufacturers financing, then go to your bank or credit union and get your own.
- Schedule a date and time to sign for and pick up the car. If the car is used, arrange for a third-party inspection (expect and want to pay for this out of your own pocket).
- Go pick up the car. Examine it thoroughly for mileage and imperfections. If the car is new, all imperfections are to be fixed before you accept delivery. Read and examine all paperwork before signing. If you can't read documents, take someone with you that you trust who can. If the numbers aren't what you were promised, demand they be fixed.
- If everything works, drive home happy.

I spent less than an hour talking with salesmen when I bought my last car, and I picked up an import for $4k under sticker ($1k under invoice). So unless you actually like haggling with salespeople, you can do it your way. Otherwise, I strongly suggest the back-door "mini" way.