Think semi synthetic oil is safe for a snowblower?

[Fanatical Meat]

Oil I got is the same weight 5/30, I know synthetics can leak more but fortunately the blower doesn't leak much.
Apx 20 year old Techumshei engine.

 

[mindless1]

That will work fine but if you find due to its age that it's burning a lot of oil or rattling a lot then you might switch to 10W-40. Synthetic vs dino, the extra expense of synthetic isn't warranted on a 20 year old small equipment engine but otherwise it'll work fine.

 

[Fanatical Meat]

That will work fine but if you find due to its age that it's burning a lot of oil or rattling a lot then you might switch to 10W-40. Synthetic vs dino, the extra expense of synthetic isn't warranted on a 20 year old small equipment engine but otherwise it'll work fine.

Thanks, funny thing is I could not find standard 5/30 oil. They were all synthetic or synthetic blends.
I did find some "small engine" oil 5/30 but it was a funny brand and more expensive
I have to say the Tecumshei engine has been a beast. 20+ years old and it consistently starts on 2nd or 3rd pull no problems other than a broken pull cord last year and rust which I should do something about.

 

[Meghan54]

Honestly, there's nothing to worry about with using a syn blend in your blower. If anything, the oil will withstand the heat better. And it really shouldn't make your motor leak more.....btw, that's a young wive's tale (synths haven't been around long enough commercially to have any old wives making up tales about synth. oils.)

The reason leaks seem to be worse is the typical cleaning ability of syns. is a tad better than with conventional oils; that and they resist breakdown and sludging better. From what I understand (understanding that pales in comparison to the boys of BITOG, who obsess about the minutiae of oil), the major reason leaks happened when switching to syns. from conventionals late in an engine's life is the syn cleans the crap left behind by conventionals....including the crap that, over time, has adhered to gaskets that are preventing oil leaks.

Add syn, the crap gets cleaned bit by bit, and a leak appears where one wasn't before.....simply because the oil does its cleaning job well.

What I would investigate doing, if leaks appear/get worse, is replace the oil with a full synthetic high mileage oil, like Valvoline or Castrol Edge HM or Mobil 1 HM. Those should potentially condition/swell the seals enough to stem/mitigate the leaks.

Just my humble opinions....... But I'd run a syn in that blower until the day it dies. Better flow when cold, better heat resistance, etc., etc.

 

[corkyg]

Would it be the same if the blower engine were 2 cycle and not 4?

 

[Fanatical Meat]

Would it be the same if the blower engine were 2 cycle and not 4?

I'd guess no but I've shown my general knowledge. Trust someone else.

 

[mindless1]

2 cycle oil, ignore the newer 50:1 mix ratio recommendations and go with 40:1, then 30:1 as an engine gets wear (doesn't take long for the smallest consumer grade lawn equipment/etc, a few dozen hours) low ash synthetic.

If the richer mix ratio disturbs one's environmental concerns then it's time to switch to a 4 cycle.

 

[dave_the_nerd]

2 cycle oil, ignore the newer 50:1 mix ratio recommendations and go with 40:1, then 30:1 as an engine gets wear (doesn't take long for the smallest consumer grade lawn equipment/etc, a few dozen hours) low ash synthetic.

If the richer mix ratio disturbs one's environmental concerns then it's time to switch to a 4 cycle.

...

Yeah, I'm just that lazy.

 

[NutBucket]

2 cycle oil, ignore the newer 50:1 mix ratio recommendations and go with 40:1, then 30:1 as an engine gets wear (doesn't take long for the smallest consumer grade lawn equipment/etc, a few dozen hours) low ash synthetic.

If the richer mix ratio disturbs one's environmental concerns then it's time to switch to electric.

Fixed that for you.

 

[NutBucket]

...

Yeah, I'm just that lazy.

You know they sell pre-measured bottles of 2-stroke oil. Mix it in with 1 gallon of gas.

In fact when I bought my Stihl hedge trimmer the guy said if you buy/use Stihl oil it extends the consumer warranty to 5 years. Verified with the website and sure enough it's true. Works for me.

 

[mindless1]

Fixed that for you.

I was talking about equipment without substantial changes in usability. Not interested in electric for some tools, cords are too bothersome and the performance: price ratio for cordless is poor compared to gas powered. It's getting better and I use electric hedge trimmers, could tolerate *modern* cordless for a string trimmer but no way for a leaf blower or chainsaw. I could see it as more desirable if someone has limited storage space, a limited # or no other gas powered equipment.

I never found it a big deal to mix oil. I get Royal Purple by the quart ($13 Amazon) and measure it with a leftover Stihl 3.2oz (gallon worth at 40:1) container that came with some tool. It seems no more trouble than measuring things any other time, following a recipe cooking for example, and I already have the fuel in cans for larger 4 cycle equipment anyway.

 

[Fanatical Meat]

Update from Saturday
It started up on the 5th pull, not bad for an aged girl.
I need to treat some rust & repaint. I always have trouble with rust removerit never turns black for me. I leave it on longer, shorter, apply heavier, lighter. I've tried different brands. Why do I have no success with it?
I have a Dremal now, I'm thinking of sanding to clean metal then use a primer. Any suggestions?

 

[mindless1]

I usually wire wheel away the majority of rust then put naval jelly (thickened phosphoric acid) on and scrub it a little with a brush (wearing goggles if needed). It will react slower in colder temperatures. Think my current batch of jelly is from Loctite but all brands I've tried seemed about the same effectiveness.