These golf clubs any good?

[dabuddha]

I couldn't figure out if there was a better subforum for this question. I've casually played golf with some friends of mine and I have no plans on putting a lot of money into it. It's more of an outing and fun time for me.

Given that, I usually just rent clubs from the course which costs me about $15-20 each time so I figured I'd buy a cheap set for myself. My buddy sent me these 2 links. Problem is, I can't really find any reviews about them.

http://www.rockbottomgolf.com/dunlop-golf-65i-complete-set-with-bag.html#product-info

http://www.rockbottomgolf.com/dunlop-golf-tour-revelation-complete-set-with-bag.html

EDIT (05/20/2014):

So of course when I got home, those sets were out of stock. Last night I did find this set on craigslist. I can't find the ad but I did copy paste the pics/info last night:

Nice used set of taylormade clubs including bag. Set consist of the following
TAYLORMADE R580 DRIVER
CALLAWAY BIG BERTHA 3 WOOD
ADAMS TIGHT LIES 2 STRONG 4 WOOD
TAYLORMADE 320 IRONS 3 THRU PW
TAYLORMADE ROSA MONZA PUTTER
TITLEIST VOKEY SW
TAYLORMADE STAND BAG

GRIPS ON THE IRONS ARE NEW GOLF PRIDE AND THE BAG WAS USED 3 TIMRS AND IS IN NEW CONDITION

He's looking for $145 for the set. I'm going to check it out this evening after work. Does that set sound good (and complete?) Anything I should look out for?

Edit: 05/20

So I ended up buying the set for $140. Overall it looks like its in excellent condition and the bag is brand new. Really nice guy too. He also threw in a dozen balls and a bag full of tees

 

[BUTCH1]

They look OK and given that your just an occasional player they should be fine as long as your not overly tall or something. Check Craigslist as well, possible to find a decent set on the cheap, just check the grips and make sure they are not overly worn, it's tough to hit a clean shot if the club slips during impact.

 

[dabuddha]

I've really been scouring craigslist and just haven't found much of a deal. Folks in the DC area really want near what they paid for when they're selling their used clubs.

 

[brianmanahan]

no irons longer than a 6? ugh

 

[BUTCH1]

no irons longer than a 6? ugh

No, but the hybrid is probably work better than a 3 iron anyway, the long iron's are very difficult to hit.

 

[JulesMaximus]

Clubs aren't going to make a damned bit of difference to your game. Get the set that is the most complete.

 

[HumblePie]

When it comes to clubs, just make sure you get the set that fits your height. If you are 6' or over, you are going to need longer clubs.

Other than that, you can buy a cheap set of irons off a site like rockbottomgolf or moarch golf or giga golf. Then fill in with a inexpensive driver, putter, hybrid, and bag. End up paying around $200 or less.

As you said, most people selling sets on CL tend to ask $200+ for their used complete sets anyhow. I could never find a deal on there unless I wanted some rusty set, that I would have to re-shaft or re-grip half the clubs.

You'll do just fine with an inexpensive set.

What I did for my initial starter set was buy the older version of this set.

http://www.rockbottomgolf.com/adams-golf-tight-lies-plus-1312-hybrid-irons-set.html

When it was on sale for $100. That set comes with a good hybrid. Bought that set, added a driver from Giga Golf that was a knock off of a Taylor Made Burner 2.0, and got a decent bag on sale for like $30. I splurged a bit on putter, since the putter is better to buy something that works for you. It's a bit more personal of a choice even for a new player.

 

[GagHalfrunt]

I've really been scouring craigslist and just haven't found much of a deal. Folks in the DC area really want near what they paid for when they're selling their used clubs.

Golf clubs are like computer parts. The vast majority are priced WAYYYYYYYYY above actual value by people who don't understand how quickly they depreciate. You can find much more accurate pricing on golf-specific sites because the guys buy and sell enough to know the real value of older, used clubs, but you're not going to get really good deals on full sets because of the shipping expense.

Given your needs either one of those sets will be fine. Don't worry about the lack of 3-4-5 irons, most people can't hit those clubs anyway, so you might as well not even have them. And don't worry about the lack of reviews. The heads are made in the same Chinese foundries as the $1000 sets and they're assembled in the same sweatshops as the $1000 sets. The only major difference is that Dunlop is not paying guys like Tiger and Phil millions of dollars a year to pretend they play the gear. They'll be of very similar quality and performance as a set costing ten times more.

 

[momeNt]

I'd get the one with the 6-SW instead of 5-PW. Playing around the greens with just a PW will really hamper you.

 

[BurnItDwn]

Maybe makes sense to get the cheapest clubs you can find? Then, if you get good or make a serious habit of it, upgrade your clubs one by one when you feel you need?

That's what I did, though I did buy a better (used) putter, 9 iron, and driver ..

 

[swanysto]

The only thing you should worry about with clubs is the shaft. What kind you want depends on your swing. Typically players who generate a lot of club speed want a firmer shaft(so that the club head keeps up with your swing). It looks like the irons have a steel shaft, which I would recommend. As far as the woods...a lot of cheaper woods come with graphite shafts that aren't very firm. This might be a problem. For me, it causes a lot of shots to the right, cause the club head cannot keep up with my swing speed.

 

[GagHalfrunt]

The only thing you should worry about with clubs is the shaft. What kind you want depends on your swing. Typically players who generate a lot of club speed want a firmer shaft(so that the club head keeps up with your swing). It looks like the irons have a steel shaft, which I would recommend. As far as the woods...a lot of cheaper woods come with graphite shafts that aren't very firm. This might be a problem. For me, it causes a lot of shots to the right, cause the club head cannot keep up with my swing speed.

ROFL!!

Maybe you're just a slicing chop like 99.9% of weekend hacks.

 

[Kyle]

Generally if a shaft is too *stiff* it can tend to go right, not the other way around - that said there's too many factors to really recommend a shaft strength, and it shouldn't make much difference anyways if he's just playing occasionally. Any newer set of clubs should be fine- some of the super game improvement irons/hybrids really do make a difference compared to irons of 10+years ago, but now most inexpensive sets like the one linked in the OP are going to be fine.

I also rec going to golf specific sites if you're looking for used clubs...could check here

http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/forum/32-classifieds-for-sale-forum/

Going to have to sort through a lot of high end stuff but I'm sure there's some deals to be had for used/lower end stuff too

 

[BUTCH1]

Clubs aren't going to make a damned bit of difference to your game. Get the set that is the most complete.

That's true, to a point, if one gets to be a +1-8 handicap golfer then a custom-made set is worth the $$, that way they are made to fit your exact height and the shaft flex is chosen for your swing style. That being said not many get that good, golf is not an easy game but it's still fun IMO..

 

[momeNt]

ROFL!!

Maybe you're just a slicing chop like 99.9% of weekend hacks.

Maybe he is a lefty.

When I've used friends clubs with weak shafts I get duck hooks. The shaft is torquing as well as kicking too early which all turns the face closed.

Really strong shafts you won't torque enough and will kick late, so you will get weak fades with poor trajectory.

 

[BUTCH1]

ROFL!!

Maybe you're just a slicing chop like 99.9% of weekend hacks.

Yea, sounds like a classic "push" swing or a good old fashioned slice.

 

[momeNt]

Yea, sounds like a classic "push" swing or a good old fashioned slice.

If it is only happening with weak shafts, he may have a point, but in my experience, you don't generally slice because of a shaft that is too weak/whippy, that causes hooks.

 

[Dman8777]

I had a problem with graphite shafted woods and slicing. If I slowed my swing down, the ball would fly straight but as soon as I tried to hit the ball harder, it would always slice. I figured it was because the shaft flexed too much and bought new woods with steel shafts which solved the problem /shrug.

 

[ManyBeers]

go to a local Goodwill or whatever thrift stores you have locally. I got mine for 2.00 a club at my local Deseret stores.

 

[GagHalfrunt]

I had a problem with graphite shafted woods and slicing. If I slowed my swing down, the ball would fly straight but as soon as I tried to hit the ball harder, it would always slice. I figured it was because the shaft flexed too much and bought new woods with steel shafts which solved the problem /shrug.

Uhhh, no.

 

[momeNt]

I had a problem with graphite shafted woods and slicing. If I slowed my swing down, the ball would fly straight but as soon as I tried to hit the ball harder, it would always slice. I figured it was because the shaft flexed too much and bought new woods with steel shafts which solved the problem /shrug.

Steel shafts solved the problem likely because of a combination of the length being shorter, and the extra weight slows your swing down and helps some people keep control.

Most drivers have ultralight 50-60gram shafts and are 46" long, not very many low handicappers are pros use shafts that light or long because you are very prone to overswinging and being wild with errant shots, which for most people is a slice. If you were to get a 70-80gram shaft and have your driver be 44.5" you'd probably notice an improvement as well.

Steel shafts in drivers specifically is very uncommon now, but usually those are 43.5".

I personally still use a steel shaft in my 3-wood, if I were to get a graphite shaft though I would get a heavier one and keep it at 42.5". I think companies now are pushing 43.25 or 43.5" 3 woods for the increase in distance. Sacrificing quite a bit of accuracy at that length and normally I use a 3wood in hitting fairways is critical.

 

[HumblePie]

My biggest tip to a new player or rec player of golf is most of what I said above plus the following.

Learn to hit straight. Don't worry about distance. Work on accuracy.
Learn the distance your clubs go when you hit.


Practice, practice, practice. Driving range is great for accomplishing the learning to hit straight and learning your distances. Also practice putting as that is the "money" shot in golf. I've seen quite a few people able to get up to a green in 2 shots, even as n00bs, and take 3 to put it in the hole. This is why picking the putter you are most comfortable with FIRST when buying clubs (even if you are a new player) is the best money spent if you intend on playing this game more than a handful of times.

Beyond that, everything else is more "advanced" stuff that one can start to learn when one gets down the basics for hitting straight, learning club distances, and acquiring confidence with their putting.

 

[GagHalfrunt]

Steel shafts solved the problem likely because of a combination of the length being shorter, and the extra weight slows your swing down and helps some people keep control.

Most drivers have ultralight 50-60gram shafts and are 46" long, not very many low handicappers are pros use shafts that light or long because you are very prone to overswinging and being wild with errant shots, which for most people is a slice. If you were to get a 70-80gram shaft and have your driver be 44.5" you'd probably notice an improvement as well.

Steel shafts in drivers specifically is very uncommon now, but usually those are 43.5".

I personally still use a steel shaft in my 3-wood, if I were to get a graphite shaft though I would get a heavier one and keep it at 42.5". I think companies now are pushing 43.25 or 43.5" 3 woods for the increase in distance. Sacrificing quite a bit of accuracy at that length and normally I use a 3wood in hitting fairways is critical.

Every single word of that is 100% correct

My biggest tip to a new player or rec player of golf is most of what I said above plus the following.

Learn to hit straight. Don't worry about distance. Work on accuracy.
Learn the distance your clubs go when you hit.


Practice, practice, practice. Driving range is great for accomplishing the learning to hit straight and learning your distances. Also practice putting as that is the "money" shot in golf. I've seen quite a few people able to get up to a green in 2 shots, even as n00bs, and take 3 to put it in the hole. This is why picking the putter you are most comfortable with FIRST when buying clubs (even if you are a new player) is the best money spent if you intend on playing this game more than a handful of times.

Beyond that, everything else is more "advanced" stuff that one can start to learn when one gets down the basics for hitting straight, learning club distances, and acquiring confidence with their putting.

Almost all of that is 100% wrong.

1) OP is not looking to practice practice practice. He wants something to have a good time with a couple of times a year, not become the next Tiger
2) Practice Practice Practice is not a good mantra for anyone. Practice does not make perfect, practice makes permanent. You need to work on specific things and you need to practice with a specific purpose. Hitting an extra bucket a day does not cure a slice, it ingrains it and makes it even harder to cure down the road. 10 minutes of focused work on correcting a single flaw is much more effective than beating balls for hours.
3) Despite the old adage of "drive for show, putt for dough" the idea that putting is the most important aspect of golf is completely, utterly bassackwards. Learn to hit the ball competently with the full swing first, chipping/pitching second, putting last. You will save FAR FAR FAR more strokes by correcting a few swing flaws than you will by fixing a balky putting stroke.
4) Again, this doesn't apply to OP as he's not looking to become a great golfer, but the path to getting good in the long run these days is to work on swing speed first, then control later for the simple reason that it simplifies the process. If you learn control first you have to learn a decent swing. Then, as a controlled swing will often contain a lot of flaws to "guide" the ball that entire swing has to be taken apart and rebuilt from the ground up to gain power. Learn swing speed first. The golf swing has to be done a certain way with the parts working together in proper timing to generate effortless power as opposed to the powerless effort most golfers swing with. Learn the key moves, the shoulder turn, the proper lag, the full release first even if you hit the ball 100 yards offline. It's a lot easier to tighten up and control a truly powerful swing than it is to inject power into a weak, straight swing.

 

[BUTCH1]

Every single word of that is 100% correct





Almost all of that is 100% wrong.

1) OP is not looking to practice practice practice. He wants something to have a good time with a couple of times a year, not become the next Tiger
2) Practice Practice Practice is not a good mantra for anyone. Practice does not make perfect, practice makes permanent. You need to work on specific things and you need to practice with a specific purpose. Hitting an extra bucket a day does not cure a slice, it ingrains it and makes it even harder to cure down the road. 10 minutes of focused work on correcting a single flaw is much more effective than beating balls for hours.
3) Despite the old adage of "drive for show, putt for dough" the idea that putting is the most important aspect of golf is completely, utterly bassackwards. Learn to hit the ball competently with the full swing first, chipping/pitching second, putting last. You will save FAR FAR FAR more strokes by correcting a few swing flaws than you will by fixing a balky putting stroke.
4) Again, this doesn't apply to OP as he's not looking to become a great golfer, but the path to getting good in the long run these days is to work on swing speed first, then control later for the simple reason that it simplifies the process. If you learn control first you have to learn a decent swing. Then, as a controlled swing will often contain a lot of flaws to "guide" the ball that entire swing has to be taken apart and rebuilt from the ground up to gain power. Learn swing speed first. The golf swing has to be done a certain way with the parts working together in proper timing to generate effortless power as opposed to the powerless effort most golfers swing with. Learn the key moves, the shoulder turn, the proper lag, the full release first even if you hit the ball 100 yards offline. It's a lot easier to tighten up and control a truly powerful swing than it is to inject power into a weak, straight swing.

Since OP is relatively new to golf his best bet would be to spend a little $$ for some professional instruction, THEN practice the swing keys that the pro taught him to do, I'm sure you've had the bad experience of playing with someone who has never played before, 5 hours of trying to find lost balls and yelling "four", if the person has worked on and developed a decent swing (as I said, with proper instruction) it will avoid 18 holes of agony for everyone. I agree with the putting 100%, what good is a 2-putt if your on the green in 8?, none. Hopefully OP will eventually get to a swing that looks like this..https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s50K65PNeBU

 

[momeNt]

Since OP is relatively new to golf his best bet would be to spend a little $$ for some professional instruction, THEN practice the swing keys that the pro taught him to do, I'm sure you've had the bad experience of playing with someone who has never played before, 5 hours of trying to find lost balls and yelling "four", if the person has worked on and developed a decent swing (as I said, with proper instruction) it will avoid 18 holes of agony for everyone. I agree with the putting 100%, what good is a 2-putt if your on the green in 8?, none. Hopefully OP will eventually get to a swing that looks like this..https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s50K65PNeBU

Pretty sure OP just wants a set of clubs to save money on rental fees. Has no interest in getting better, just wants to make it cheaper to spend an afternoon on the course with his buddies.