Testing PSU

[bl1tzk1213g]

I have a PSU laying around that I want to sell to give me budget for an upgrade but I wanna test it first before selling. How would I know if it's not a BAD psu?

HISTORY: I built my rig back in the Philippines where we use 220V. When I moved back here in the US, for some reason my computer would not post. I tested the PSU on a 20pin (not 24) motherboard and it powered up. I contemplated that my board died on me got an RMA. I don't know what killed my board either during the shipment (plane as a baggage, static?) or from the psu (from switching to 220 to 110 though it's autovolt). I occasionally use it to test fans and stuff.

After I got my RMA I bought an HX1000 just to make sure I won't be having a troubles. The local PC store couldn't tell exactly what killed my board he said something about my psu having the 3v (or 3.3v?) a reading LITTLE below normal. Still he couldn't give me a straight answer.

PSU is HEC Cougar 700w 80Plus bronze
http://hecgroupusa.com/products/swit...s/cougar700cm/

 

[BoomerD]

HEC Cougar? Not worth messing with. Just toss it in the trash...

Well...it actually depends on which Cougar 700 watt unit it is...JonnyGuru gave the S700 a 9 in his testing and review...

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...CQRdvr9Gw&sig2=RZx-YGDmbewHltuO9b0jNw&cad=rja

So...without a proper testing bench, about all you can really do is a "quick function test" with a case fan and paper clip/piece of wire.

Hook the case fan to one of the 12 volt molex connectors, use the piece of wire or paperclip to jump between the green wire and one of the black wires in your 20/24 pin ATX power connector. Plug it in and turn it on. that SHOULD provide power to the fan...obviously, this doesn't load test the entire unit, it doesn't test the other rails...and it's not a fail-proof test...but it will test the basic function of the 12 volt system.

http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=63991

 

[bl1tzk1213g]

Nope it's not the s700, CM700. It's an actual HEC brand and Cougar line not the actual COUGAR brand though they're essentially the same.

It does run on jump start, I've used it to try out my fans and run my pump on my watercooling loop.

I just don't have the means to try out the PSU and I don't want to gamble my motherboard once again.

 

[BoomerD]

You can buy a fairly simple PSU tester from most of the on-line retailers, but they don't do any REAL testing...but will tell you if you have voltage in the appropriate rails.

 

[bl1tzk1213g]

Yeah that's true but I'm more concerned on powering a rig with it. Can it kill a motherboard on start up? I tried with an old motherboard with 20pin and got it o post. I only have one 24pin motherboard that I can stress the crap out of it but I don't wanna jeopardize it.

 

[BoomerD]

Yes, if it fails under your testing, it can indeed kill components. Motherboard, CPU, RAM, video card...any/all are "targets" of a power supply when it blows.

 

[PreferLinux]

Add HDD (or at least data) to that list as fluctuating power can cause problems.

 

[OnePingOnly]

I have a PSU laying around that I want to sell to give me budget for an upgrade but I wanna test it first before selling. How would I know if it's not a BAD psu?

HISTORY: I built my rig back in the Philippines where we use 220V. When I moved back here in the US, for some reason my computer would not post. I tested the PSU on a 20pin (not 24) motherboard and it powered up. I contemplated that my board died on me got an RMA. I don't know what killed my board either during the shipment (plane as a baggage, static?) or from the psu (from switching to 220 to 110 though it's autovolt). I occasionally use it to test fans and stuff.

After I got my RMA I bought an HX1000 just to make sure I won't be having a troubles. The local PC store couldn't tell exactly what killed my board he said something about my psu having the 3v (or 3.3v?) a reading LITTLE below normal. Still he couldn't give me a straight answer.

PSU is HEC Cougar 700w 80Plus bronze
http://hecgroupusa.com/products/swit...s/cougar700cm/

Bump!

I have a question somewhat related to the OP's but in reverse.

I'm bringing my rig (in sig below) from USA to the Philippines where their wall power output is 220V (@50hz), I believe. What do I need to make sure that everything is powered correctly / safely? Do I need a voltage converter and / or AVR? Also, what wattage should I be going for based on the specs of my system in sig below (e.g. 1200w, 3000w, etc.)? Appreciate any input and links to products I can get here before I go.

 

[OnePingOnly]

Forgot to add, my particular PSU (Seasonic X-750) has Active PFC (100V-240V, 50/60Hz). I'm just wondering whether an line conditioner / AVR is called for - brown outs are typical in Philippines, I hear.