Temps hotter than they used to be

James Bond

Diamond Member
Jan 21, 2005
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I recently went through a move.

I plugged in my computer, and it crashed a couple times when running CS:S. I figured that since its getting to be summer, my vid card may have overheated...or it might just be going bad.

I decided to check my CPU temps--turns out that they are WAY higher than they used to be.

I used to idle at like 30-35C, and right now I'm idling at mid 50s on core 1 and 2. My TJunction is now at 85C.

I have a C2D E6400 OCd to 3.2GHz with a Tuniq Tower on top.

Now that I know that my CPU is running hotter, how can I get my temps back low?
 

aigomorla

CPU, Cases&Cooling Mod PC Gaming Mod Elite Member
Super Moderator
Sep 28, 2005
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uhh...

1. this post belongs in the case and cooling section. Not overclocking and cpu section.


And You should head over there now, read the cable management sticky. Do some cable work.

Also get a Compressed Air can, and blow your fins on the tuniq. You might have a LOT of dust stuck inside. If your a smoker, You'll have uber bunnies getting nice and fat near your caps, and stuck inside your fins.

Lastly, if you do have good cable management, and your chip just got hotter, maybe you nudged your tuniq off sqew when you moved it. Try remounting.
 

James Bond

Diamond Member
Jan 21, 2005
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Yeah sorry, didn't mean to post here.

Cool cable management guide, I think I'll try it out, obviously that isn't my issue though.

I guess re-mounting my heatsink will be the first step.
 
Mar 30, 2007
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I'd suggest remounting with a fresh application of AS5 and you may wanna consider lapping that TT. I had a TT on my last e4300 build and after I lapped it my temps dropped about 5C.
 

James Bond

Diamond Member
Jan 21, 2005
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Originally posted by: PuffDaMagicSamus
I'd suggest remounting with a fresh application of AS5 and you may wanna consider lapping that TT. I had a TT on my last e4300 build and after I lapped it my temps dropped about 5C.

How is that done, exactly?
 
Mar 30, 2007
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Well you can buy a lapping kit for about $15. It's basically a process by which you sand the base of the HSF down using multiple grades of sandpaper. By doing so it makes the surface much shiner but more importantly, flatter. Flatter means better contact with the IHS of the CPU which in turn gives you better thermal transfer. Some people even lap the IHS on their CPU but it voids your warranty.
 

yuppiejr

Golden Member
Jul 31, 2002
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I'm going to say that since the OP says he recently MOVED the PC and suddenly has a significant jump in temps, we're probably looking at a mechanical failure of the CPU HSF mount or damage to the cooler itself. Dismount the HSF and backplate then inspect to make sure none of the mounting points have failed. Assuming everything looks good, remove the old thermal transfer compound from the CPU and HSF with a coffee filter + 90% alcohol, apply a rice-size dab of AS5/Ceramique to the CPU, buff a small quantity into the bottom of the HSF, re-mount - power up. Taking into account any changes in the baseline ambient temps in your new environment, test your cooler at idle and under load to ensure it is performing properly before investing the time and effort lapping. If you cracked a heatpipe or otherwise damaged the cooler during the move there's not much point to lapping, particularly if you decide to RMA it back to Tuniq.

Since the Tuniq coolers are notorious for having a rough interface surface lapping would be of benefit if you have the right equipment. Keep in mind that if you do it wrong and either make the surface uneven or remove too much material you will actually hurt your cooler's performance, so weigh the risks versus your patience and skill.

If you've never lapped a heatsink before it's important to use a flat, smooth surface like a marble flooring tile or 1/2" glass plate with sandpaper or polishing compound applied to the surface for lapping rather than trying to polish it free-hand. A majority of people who try to free-hand lap (sandpaper in one hand, heatsink in the other - rub together furiously) a heatsink will do it wrong and either result in a net 0 gain or make the cooler's performance worse.

If you use sandpaper (I like the black stuff with a bit of water, preference varies from person to perosn though) use duct tape on all 4 sides of the sheet to secure it to the tile and ensure it doesn't shift while you work. Cover the bottom of the heatsink with black permanent marker and as you are removing material with progressively higher grit paper, keep checking to make sure you are removing it evenly. If you're doing it right, the marker should disappear from the bottom of the lapped heatsink evenly, if not you will need to carefully adjust the pressure you are using to compensate. Once the marker is gone and you've gotten to the highest grit sandpaper, tape a buffing cloth to the tile and then use metal polish to get a mirror shine.

There are different techniques out there so do lots of reading on the various O/C sites that document the process and try a practice run or two with a non critical heatsink if you can. Old northbridge heatsinks or VGA coolers are always prime candidates.

Good luck!
 

James Bond

Diamond Member
Jan 21, 2005
6,023
0
0
Originally posted by: yuppiejr
I'm going to say that since the OP says he recently MOVED the PC and suddenly has a significant jump in temps, we're probably looking at a mechanical failure of the CPU HSF mount or damage to the cooler itself. Dismount the HSF and backplate then inspect to make sure none of the mounting points have failed. Assuming everything looks good, remove the old thermal transfer compound from the CPU and HSF with a coffee filter + 90% alcohol, apply a rice-size dab of AS5/Ceramique to the CPU, buff a small quantity into the bottom of the HSF, re-mount - power up. Taking into account any changes in the baseline ambient temps in your new environment, test your cooler at idle and under load to ensure it is performing properly before investing the time and effort lapping. If you cracked a heatpipe or otherwise damaged the cooler during the move there's not much point to lapping, particularly if you decide to RMA it back to Tuniq.

Since the Tuniq coolers are notorious for having a rough interface surface lapping would be of benefit if you have the right equipment. Keep in mind that if you do it wrong and either make the surface uneven or remove too much material you will actually hurt your cooler's performance, so weigh the risks versus your patience and skill.

If you've never lapped a heatsink before it's important to use a flat, smooth surface like a marble flooring tile or 1/2" glass plate with sandpaper or polishing compound applied to the surface for lapping rather than trying to polish it free-hand. A majority of people who try to free-hand lap (sandpaper in one hand, heatsink in the other - rub together furiously) a heatsink will do it wrong and either result in a net 0 gain or make the cooler's performance worse.

If you use sandpaper (I like the black stuff with a bit of water, preference varies from person to perosn though) use duct tape on all 4 sides of the sheet to secure it to the tile and ensure it doesn't shift while you work. Cover the bottom of the heatsink with black permanent marker and as you are removing material with progressively higher grit paper, keep checking to make sure you are removing it evenly. If you're doing it right, the marker should disappear from the bottom of the lapped heatsink evenly, if not you will need to carefully adjust the pressure you are using to compensate. Once the marker is gone and you've gotten to the highest grit sandpaper, tape a buffing cloth to the tile and then use metal polish to get a mirror shine.

There are different techniques out there so do lots of reading on the various O/C sites that document the process and try a practice run or two with a non critical heatsink if you can. Old northbridge heatsinks or VGA coolers are always prime candidates.

Good luck!

THANK YOU! I would have definitely used the newbie technique if it wasn't for this post.

I really appreciate it.