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Temp rise from cold start...question

Mxylplyx

Diamond Member
Does anybody know if it's normal for the temp gauge in my 2000 GMC Jimmy to rise to 3/4 before rapidly cooling back down to normal operating temp, and only after a cold start? I've been having temp problems lately, which I believe I resolved with a new thermostat and fan clutch, and have therefore been heavily scrutinizing the temp gauge. Is there perhaps a lag in cooling performance between the time the thermostat pops open, and when the temp starts to come down? I'd say the time it takes to get from 200F to 230F is about 10sec, and then it rapidly cools back down in about 5sec.

Thanks
 
Where did you get the thermostat from? It really does seem like a thermostat problem, but it could also be a failing sensor.
 
Thermostat was from advanced auto parts. It's not even 3 weeks old. I guess I'll pull it out and test it on the stove. I dont remember if it was doing this before the thermostat was replaced.
 
Originally posted by: Mxylplyx
Thermostat was from advanced auto parts. It's not even 3 weeks old. I guess I'll pull it out and test it on the stove. I dont remember if it was doing this before the thermostat was replaced.

I have a high fatality rate when it comes to thermostats from those types of places. I now just spend the extra few bucks on the dealer OEM.
 
Does the thermostat just pop open when it reaches it's opening temp (195F), or does it gradually open? Is it supposed to be fully open at 195F, or does it only start opening at 195F?
 
Are you certain your radiator is truly full? Are there air bleeds on your motor that need to be bled?

The symptoms you're describing can be also be attributed to a low coolant level.

 
The coolant overflow bottle is at the full line. There might be a small leak somewhere, as I've smelt coolant in the engine compartment after driving the car, but it's a real slow one, as I've only had to put a little water in it once. Hopefully it's not coming from the water pump weep hole. I have noticed from time to time a "gurgling" sound coming from the engine when I accelerate, which could be air bubbles, but I havent noticed that in quite a while. I'm pretty sure it's not the thermostat, as I had the same problem before replacing the original one a few weeks ago. I think I'll just keep an eye on it for now, especially since winter is coming, and perhaps do a reverse flush in the spring. So long as its not heating up at idle anymore, I'm not too concerned about it overheating. It wasnt overheating before, it was just getting hotter than it should.
 
Originally posted by: boomerang
Are you certain your radiator is truly full? Are there air bleeds on your motor that need to be bled?

The symptoms you're describing can be also be attributed to a low coolant level.

Where would I find an air bleed? I havent see anything like that on any of the coolant hoses.
 
Originally posted by: Mxylplyx
Originally posted by: boomerang
Are you certain your radiator is truly full? Are there air bleeds on your motor that need to be bled?

The symptoms you're describing can be also be attributed to a low coolant level.

Where would I find an air bleed? I havent see anything like that on any of the coolant hoses.
They'll be at high points in the coolant system. They'll be in a hard line between hoses, on the thermostat housing, etc. Not all motors have them. Yours may not have them.

I had an '80 Buick Skylark that I bought new. About 2 years into my ownership, one morning on the way to work I look at the temperature gage and it's rising to nearly overheating and then rapidly going back down to near cold.

When I got home that afternoon, I raised the hood and looked everything over thoroughly. The overflow reservoir was full.

When the thing cooled down, I removed the radiator cap and could not even see any coolant in the radiator! The hose running from the overflow to the radiator had a twist in it where it ran behind the battery. This explained how it could be full and the radiator be empty.

I filled up the radiator and the problem went away. Most likely there was a small internal coolant leak (head gasket or intake manifold most likely) and it took that long to exhibit a problem. The fact that it was the dead of winter probably saved me from a major repair.

When the car is cold, take off the radiator cap and have a look see. The gurgling you were talking about is a sign of low coolant. Where you were hearing it was in the heater core.

I used to crew on a friends racing team and he taught me a method to pretty much ensure your coolant level is right for a motor without air bleeds.

With the engine cold, remove the radiator cap and start it. It really helps to have someone to work the throttle for you as you want to keep the engine running between about 2000 and 2500 RPM. When you rev up and hold the throttle like that, you'll see the coolant level drop in the radiator. That's the time to add your coolant and get the radiator cap back on.

Remember that the coolant is warming up and expanding while you're doing this so you want to have what you need at hand and get the job done in a timely manner.
 
I've read that the OEM AC Delco radiator caps on the Jimmy/Blazer models at this time have a high failure rate, and often allows air to be sucked into the system. I think I'll try changing this out as well since it's a $5 part. I'll also run it up to normal operating temp with the radiator cap off and the heater on to try and bleed any air out.
 
Well, I took the radiator cap off and ran the engine up to operating temp. First, the flood level wasnt even visible from the filler neck. I took the hose and filled it up , and then let the engine run, constantly filling it up as the level dropped. I watched air bubble out of it for a good 5 minutes. I then turned the heater on to flush fluid through the core, and watched even more bubbles come out of it, and the fluid dropped out of sight once again. Eventually I got it to stabilize, and then let it idle in gear with the A/C full blast. Never budged above the ideal temp. WOOT! I'm going to replace the radiator cap tomorrow, and have it reverse flushed in the next few weeks, because the fluid had all kinds of gunk in it. I'll take it out for a real drive this weekend, and hope for the best. So a new thermostat and fan clutch, and all along it might have been air. Oh well, this is the first cooling work I've ever done, and I think the knowlege gained was a bargain for ~$70.

edit: drove it to work this morning. Temps stayed normal. Hopefully someone else can learn something from this thread.
 
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