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Tell me about buying a used car

Mo0o

Lifer
I have no real car buying experience, I've only tagged along when my parents bought new cars. Now I'm looking to buy a used car for $20,000 (can't really go past that and preferably closer to the $15,000 mark). I'll be paying in cash, w/o financing.

So I'm currently looking at an '04/'05 Accord EX V6 with leather seats. KBB places the 04 at around $16,000. Before my parents split we use to have this as a "family car" that I drove most of the time so I have a decent amount of exp with it and thought it was a pretty good and very practical.

Anyways, I guess my real question is, what kinds of things should I be doing when I'm checking out a car at a dealership vs. a private seller? Any good haggling strategies? I read online that I should get an independent mechanic to check it out, how do I arrange that with the seller?

Any and all advice is welcome

Moved from Off Topic
moderator allisolm
 
I'm going to start by saying that you need to know your intentions up front. If you believe you're going to sell the car in 3-5 years to get a newer one, worry about the trade-in value. If you want to be more economical, drive it until the wheels fall off and don't bother worrying about the resale value. (in other words, consider buying an american car or even worse, a korean vehicle to save on your sticker price) The worst thing you can get into is a large monthly payment on a car that's constantly losing value. Trust me, I know plenty of folks that are upside down in vehicles. (meaning their trade-in value is less than what they owe on cars, but they trade them in for something new anyway)


For picking the right car, I suggest you test drive. I usually rate my test drives on 5 things.

1. Power - how much pickup does the engine have....does it hesitate when stomping the pedal? This is an Interstate safety issue more than anything...I don't normally drive fast
2. Gas Mileage - If it gets over 25mpg, I'm happy
3. Roominess - I'm 6'4" and like to sometimes haul 8 foot 2x4's in my car....I need a fold down back seat and plenty of cargo room. 4 doors are mandatory for me
4. Quietness of ride. If you drive over train tracks or better yet...find a road with broken pavement. Drive over it with every vehicle you consider. It will let you know a few things....how well the car is insulated and whether or not it may have been in a wreck....you see, wrecked cars tend to rattle more than others.
5. Looks - This one is last because cars are just transportation. Chances are, it will get a dent, scratch, or a fender bent later on. Just remember if it already has a blemish or two, it will loosen you up a little about future bummers ahead.

My suggestion of a good car is actually what I'm driving now.

I've got a 2003 Buick Regal. I drove Maximas, Accords, Civics, and even a couple of Suzukis....none of them had a ride as quiet or the same features for anywhere near the price. Gas mileage on the Regal is impressive for the size of car(200hp) and it's great for long trips. Research gas mileage and what JD Power says about the car. (it's the sporty version of the Century) You'd never guess how much of a good buy it is considering how fast it depreciates. My wife has a Civic....she borrowed my car a week and a half ago....she's not given it back since. 🙁
 
buy from private sellers. look in your sunday classifieds for good deals. take someone who knows a little about cars and you should be good.
 
With little, or no, knowledge about the mechanical side of cars ("with leather seats.." isn't a purchasing factor at all!) it's a crap shoot. You're a sucker for anyone selling a car with a non-obvious, but expensive problem. Yes, the more expensive the car the less likely it is to have such a problem, but, for sure they're out there.

If you have a friend that is knowledgeable (ie. actually works on cars!) get him/her to help. If not, hire a mechanic.
 
Private sellers usually undervalue their cars cause they know every squeak and rattle and ususally are easier to negotiate down as its not their job and easily tire of always having to 'show' a vehicle.
BUT its also much easier to get ripped off, as car sold 'as is' is just that, no recourse for you the buyer so you have to really be selective about whom you buy from.
 
Ordinarily I'd steer you towards a private party and lining up a Honda specialist mechanic to do an inspection for you on your test drive.

HOWEVER, because this particular car has a seriously weak transmission, I would HIGHLY suggest that you buy a certified used model from the Honda dealership or simply consider alternate models (the 4-cylinder with 5-speed manual has adequate power). I have the '03 V6 and my transmission failed after a mere 65,000 miles. Because I bought it certified, it was replaced under the extended warranty, but a regular car would not have been under warranty at that point, and the replacement would have cost around $3500-$4000. And as much as I love the car in every other respect, if I'd known that was going to happen, I would not have bought this model of car. If anything, I'd have simply sprung for the newer model years where you can get the 6-speed manual.
 
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