Tech question on T-bred B, and pins

[maluckey]

Do the pins on a T-bred B correspond directly to the bridges on the top of the processor? If so, would it not be possible to close the bridges by closing them on the pins on the backside? Second, related question....Is there a painless and easy way to cut the briges for multiplier changes. I ruined a Palomino through careless cutting with an Exacto knife, and seventy dollars later, here I am.

I have a KT266a, and want a 15x multiplier to lower my FSB from over 170 to something reasonable, and the AIUHB runs easily to 2.3 Ghz. It's a marriage made in heaven, except that the multiplier ruins the fun at around 2275mhz, and 175mhz FSB.

 

[ChampionAtTufshop]

afaik, no the bridges dont directly correspond to the pins underneath

you can "blow" the bridges as well
take a 9v battery, one wire to +, one wire to - leads on battery, touch them to the bridge and poof
i still like cutting them though lol
but the above ive heard works as well(havnt tried it yet tho...im sure some have though in this forum)

 

[johncar]

Originally posted by: maluckey
Do the pins on a T-bred B correspond directly to the bridges on the top of the processor? If so, would it not be possible to close the bridges by closing them on the pins on the backside? Second, related question....Is there a painless and easy way to cut the briges for multiplier changes. I ruined a Palomino through careless cutting with an Exacto knife, and seventy dollars later, here I am.

You cannot literally "close" the bridges via pins, but you can "change" the default HI or LO settings of the L3 Multiplier bridges via the pins, as long as the L1 bridges are closed...which they are on Tbreds.

http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index/htm link to Workarounds article for circuit diagram of a swirched or jumpered pcb which connects to the backside of sockets. Then link to Multiplier Code and Circuits article to "understand" AMD's Multiplier Code and signal circuits..why and how they work and can be modded.

If you still want to open L3 bridges, do so with a very finely pointed diamond coated rotary burr installed into a tube for careful manual handling like a surgical instrument. Wear away material gradually, inspect frequently with eye loupe. Never use any kind of knife as you have no depth control, can cut other subsurface circuitry. Get burr from your dentist, hardware or hobby shop. Key is very finest pointed one so as not to obliterate the whole bridge, just open in center.
John C.

 

[maluckey]

Yeah, not quite what I was hoping. I was looking for the easy way to get a 15x, locked multiplier for my KT266a. It runs higher multipliers than the stock 13x with the 2100+, but it has to be set at the CPU. I guess that modifying the bridges is the only way in this particular case.