TBird 1ghz wont post @133FSB on KT7A - ideas?

[MikeR]

133 FSB @ 7.5 and not a peep or post🙁
It will oc on multiplier [11 and 11.5]
🙂

Week 50 Tbird [penciled], 256mb Crucial cas2 - any ideas folks?

Oh, one strange thing - the kt7a initially recognises it as a 500 tbird!

 

[DarkMajiq]

Try re-penciling it.

 

[Liquidh2o]

remove and repencil your L1 bridges again...

and I have another Q for you having just read the anandtech review of this board...

is your memory pc133?

 

[MikeR]

Memory is PC133.

Dumb question - how will repeciling help the FSB thang? Its currently running @ 1126 [107X10.5]

MikeR

 

[Liquidh2o]

from the sounds of it, it's probably not your FSB that's causing the problems.

"Oh, one strange thing - the kt7a initially recognises it as a 500 tbird!"

that's a common symptom of a pencil unlock gone awry..

 

[sad]

Does it load at 7.5X100? If not, you may have to reconnect the bridges. I wouldn't use pencil again though (too flaky).

 

[MikeR]

RATS!
This means getting that dirty great Taisol sink off again!!

 

[AdamK47]

BIOS level multiplier manipulation sucks for running a 100MHz bus Athlon at 133MHz bus. If you use the BIOS level multipliers, the system will first boot at the default multiplier (in your case 10) and will be using a 133MHz bus, then it will switch to whatever multiplier you entered in there. It will be running at 1333MHz for some time before the BIOS alters the multiplier. Use an external method like DIP swtiches/jumpers or modification of the L6 bridges to overcome this problem.

 

[Technonut]

<< BIOS level multiplier manipulation sucks for running a 100MHz bus Athlon at 133MHz bus. If you use the BIOS level multipliers, the system will first boot at the default multiplier (in your case 10) and will be using a 133MHz bus, then it will switch to whatever multiplier you entered in there. It will be running at 1333MHz for some time before the BIOS alters the multiplier. Use an external method like DIP swtiches/jumpers or modification of the L6 bridges to overcome this problem. >>


The KT7A does not seem to be affected by this as much as other boards. Others, and myself, have had no problem taking chips from bootup to a reduced multiplier/raised FSB right away. I know damn well that the 900's and 1100 that I am running now would not POST at 1300MHz, and I have ran the 900's at a reduced multiplier/high FSB with no boot up problems, along with this 1100.

 

[MikeR]

Okay - I'll bite 🙂

L6 bridge - like what adjustment there?

Thanks

MikeR

 

[Technonut]

Just get a Loctite Rear Window Defogger Grid Repair kit, use the conductive paint to close your L1's. It is a one shot deal, and you won't have to worry about it any more. I have done many Durons and T-Birds this way, and it is much more effective than a pencil.

Just search around the forums, and you will see that the KT7A BIOS handles the lowered multiplier/high FSB settings very well, and does not have the boot up problems that some of the mobos like the EPOX and others are having. You just have a bad pencil job going on. I fooled around with penciling at first, and while some people have had luck with it lasting, I never did, and was always wondering when the next time that I would have to re-do it would be.

If you want to take a diamond tipped scribe, and start cutting bridges, be my guest, but I can almost guarantee that using the Loctite conductive paint will fix your problem on the KT7A.

 

[AmazonRasta]

I wouldn't necessarily suggest using the rear window defogger kit yet. If indeed he did mess up on his pencilling, what's to say that he won't mess up with the defogger kit? Being permanent, it'll be a hell of a lot harder to get off. MikeR, I'd stick with the pencil, that way you can mess up as many times as you want, you just have to erase and re-pencil. Better to be safe than sorry.

 

[rarebear]

Well it might not be permanent as I Locktited my L1 to L3 bridges together then got a razor and scraped it off and it works great now..
But I thought I killed it for sure hehehe

Get a Magifing glass and a tooth pick and shave the tooth pick down and test it on paper first..

 

[AMD4ME2]

locktite is not permanent.. I took mine off with an alcohol prep pad I stole from the hospital, ganked a bunch of them they come in handy 🙂 just rubbed till it came off no problem really... but nail polish remover works better.

 

[DaddyG]

MikeR, its a good idea to try the mobo at 7.5 X 100 to see if your multipliers are OK. With BIOS OC, especially when switching to 133mhz is frequently a requirement to make sure all your BIOS options are default. Some BIOS options are not compatable between 100 and 133. ABIT are the kings of BIOS overclocking and don't seem to have the same problems that EPOX and others have during chip initialization.
Other solutions revolve around opening the 4X multiplier on the L6 bridges (John Carrs site has pictures and info on the bridges). Connecting all the L7 bridges to get the 1.85v default also helps.