Talk to me about dying alternators

[Viper GTS]

Started the Forester (04 XT) up last night and got an odd e-brake light + battery light. Drove it 3 miles and the lights went out. They didn't come back on the way home. Started it this morning and same lights, again went out after a hard run down an on-ramp. Had no issues driving the 7 miles to work.

Google tells me that brake + battery lights is Subaru for 'you're buying a new alternator,' particularly since the power steering is fine and the battery is a <6 month old DieHard Platinum.

It seems that the alternator is extremely accessible so I'm inclined to do this myself. The unfortunate thing is my other car is sitting at a shop in another state so I have to drive this.

Locally I can get this today (by going about 10 miles out of my way):

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/_/N-93xme?itemIdentifier=604108_23521_0_

I know it's crap but it beats getting stranded right?

Alternatively Amazon has this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C5SFHI/

It's on Prime, could have it Tuesday.

I would prefer to go OEM but I don't have pricing on that yet. Subaru forums suggest nearly $500 for OEM.

So the real question is - Which part and how long do I likely have before this goes critical? I can go get the AutoZone reman unit and put it in tonight to buy me enough time to get a quality replacement. I do have a battery tender so in theory I could minimize use of lights/etc and put it on the tender at night. My commute is roughly 7 miles each way.

Viper GTS

 

[COPOHawk]

I have been through a bad string for reman alternators for my 2007 Buick Lacrosse...last week, I ended up buying a Brand New Bosch alternator from Amazon (and my Prime acct). I had it shipped overnight...works great!

The quality of a lot of "reman" auto parts varies GREATLY these days. I would buy brand new, where the price is reasonable. I think the problem is that the reman people are buying Chinesium bearings, etc. where the quality sucks...but they save a few dollars.

HTH...

 

[NutBucket]

Given that it takes about 10 minutes to swap the alternator I'd be inclined to go the reman route. You'll get a good one, just might take a few tries!

More importantly, did you measure the output of the alternator to see if its actually bad?

 

[Jimzz]

Is there a advance auto local? Use code P20 for 20% off at advance. Order online for pickup and enter code in the coupon section.

 

[Bartman39]

You should be able to take it to Auto Zone and have them test it right there on the spot and determine if it is bad or not before you buy a reman unit...? But as for buying one from them it should be just fine and looks to carry a lifetime warranty anyhow...

 

[Viper GTS]

Just borrowed a multi-meter at work, 12.19V when it's off and bouncing between 11.75 and 12.0 when running at idle.

So I would say that's an affirmative on the alternator.

Viper GTS

 

[jlee]

Just borrowed a multi-meter at work, 12.19V when it's off and bouncing between 11.75 and 12.0 when running at idle.

So I would say that's an affirmative on the alternator.

Viper GTS

Yep.

 

[Jimzz]

Yep.

 

[NutBucket]

Confirmed!

 

[olds]

Is the voltage regulator built into the alternator? If so, I concur.

I had an F150 that went through and alternator a year. Lifetime warranty on it and it was accessible so I didn't sweat it to much.

Now my boat, it went through a starter a year because of it's location down in the bilge. But, I had to pull the 455 to get to it. That sucked.

 

[Viper GTS]

It appears to be yes.

I'm going to grab the reman tonight & take a shot at replacing it.

Any thoughts on using my battery tender (via cigarette lighter + ignition in acc) to keep from losing radio/clock/etc?

Viper GTS

 

[NutBucket]

Should work. Mechanics typically do something to that effect when replacing batteries.

 

[phucheneh]

Sounds like the alternator is doing absolutely nothing. That's often indicative of it not being the alternator...I would check the voltage of the wiring going into it.

 

[jlee]

Sounds like the alternator is doing absolutely nothing. That's often indicative of it not being the alternator...I would check the voltage of the wiring going into it.

The last one I had like that (Tacoma) was the alternator.

 

[Viper GTS]

Alternator is in, it runs, and no lights at the moment. We will see how it does tomorrow morning before declaring it fixed but it seems (placebo?) to be running a lot better than it was.

We shall see. Install is incredibly simple even for someone who has never done more than change oil (and rarely that).

Viper GTS

 

[olds]

Did you test the output?

 

[Viper GTS]

Not with a meter yet. Don't know where mine is, I'll check again tomorrow at work.

The access port is reporting mid 13s though, which is higher than I saw with the old.

It had developed a nasty stutter in recent months at partial throttle input, that seems to be gone so that is a positive sign.

Viper GTS

 

[Viper GTS]

No warning lights this morning and meters at 13.7V at idle (vs <12 yesterday).

Looks like it's fixed for now, we'll see how long it holds up to decide if I need a better one.

Viper GTS