talk to me about building my own AR

[JeffreyLebowski]

Were older ARs .223 only? Everything on that chart is 5.56.

Everything on that chart is designed for "mil-spec" Which is a term internet commandos use to justify paying absurd prices for something.
Let's face it. The military buys large quantities as cheaply as possible.
The only thing you need to worry about when buying an AR or building one is making sure the Gas Key is staked to the Bolt Carrier and the words, Vulcan, Hesse, or Blackthorne are no where on the gun or any of it's parts.

Most people talk sh!t about brands without having any direct experience with it. They will claim to have fielded everything and only X works.
If you view the gun and AR specific forums you'll see a trend. If something like a Bushmaster, DPMS, Rock River, SW ect breaks. It's a piece of crap. You wasted your money, ect, ect.
If a beloved Colt or BCM has a failure, it was a freak accident and nothing can explain why it broke.
One of my buddies is an owner of one of the largest gun stores/shooting ranges in the metroplex, and he doesn't see many issues in any brands of AR's that aren't due to something using steel cased ammo and then switching to brass cased ammo.

 

[Texashiker]

Were older ARs .223 only? Everything on that chart is 5.56.

There are some manufacturers out there that try to fudge their parts, and chamber their rifles for 223 pressures.

Also, the chart does not have "all" of the companies that make an AR.

My personal preference would be Spikes Tactical and DS Arms - in that order. Both rifles come with milspec parts and a lifetime warranty.

 

[Lalakai]

Were older ARs .223 only? Everything on that chart is 5.56.

....hope this isn't a double post....sausage fingers strike again.

Edro, sorry maybe I misunderstood the OP when he was asking about the 5.56 and .223. Agreed, the chart is 5.56; I was trying to explain the differences between the two rounds, and when they can be interchanged......and when they shouldn't.

 

[Scarpozzi]

I think S&W makes those.

I could be wrong though.

I did a search and found something that said Wilson Arms is who makes the barrels. Everything is mil-spec. I apologize for yesterday, but couldn't finish my post because my wife needed me.

1. I bought 2 stripped lowers from gunbroker and had them shipped to an FFL. You should be able to pick them up from a gun show for $100 or so + background check...then you just need a lower parts kit ($50) and a 4 or 6 position stock ($40-50)

2. The only thing you need then is a complete upper. You can get these from Del-ton.com when they go on sale for $385-ish...to $425. That's a 1x9 twist, standard car handle, A4 upper with a chromed barrel and standard bolt/carrier/charging handle.

I own 2 DTI uppers and they both are very good quality. I wouldn't think twice about purchasing more from them for their price. Groupings are excellent at 50 yards for me...

I picked up a quad rail from amazon.com for $39.95 and a detachable carry handle for another $30 to finish out one of the ARs.

Here are the AR-15s before I put the new quad rail on:
http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/scarpozzi/ARs.jpg

Here's what it looks like after:
http://pics.bbzzdd.com/users/scarpozzi/AR-15.jpg

 

[olds]

...
The only thing you need to worry about when buying an AR or building one is making sure the Gas Key is staked to the Bolt Carrier and the words, Vulcan, Hesse, or Blackthorne are no where on the gun or any of it's parts...

This
This
This

 

[clamum]

:hmm: I don't know... the thought of eliminating incredibly hot corrosive gas still sounds like a good design.

I do like that Colt upper though. 1:7 twist would be nice

As others have said, IMO the piston guns are overrated and a normal DI gun would suit you just fine. For your first AR, I would just buy a complete package. I think most companies make decent ARs these days so I wouldn't get too hung up on which company to buy from as you'll always find someone, especially on forums, talking shit about some gun.

Why the 1:7 twist? As far as I know, that's for shooting heavy(ier) bullets.

 

[schneiderguy]

As others have said, IMO the piston guns are overrated and a normal DI gun would suit you just fine. For your first AR, I would just buy a complete package. I think most companies make decent ARs these days so I wouldn't get too hung up on which company to buy from as you'll always find someone, especially on forums, talking shit about some gun.

Why the 1:7 twist? As far as I know, that's for shooting heavy(ier) bullets.

1:7 will work with anything from 55 grain to 77grain

 

[Imp]

$800 for an AR-15? The hell was I paying $3100 in Counterstrike?

 

[nick1985]

$800 for an AR-15? The hell was I paying $3100 in Counterstrike?

You were paying for the full-auto and the silencer

 

[gorcorps]

As others have said, IMO the piston guns are overrated and a normal DI gun would suit you just fine. For your first AR, I would just buy a complete package. I think most companies make decent ARs these days so I wouldn't get too hung up on which company to buy from as you'll always find someone, especially on forums, talking shit about some gun.

Why the 1:7 twist? As far as I know, that's for shooting heavy(ier) bullets.

1:7 will work with anything from 55 grain to 77grain

That.

I have buddies that get cheaper surplus rounds but they have a larger charge so would need 1:7 for extended use. It's not a big deal but if I can get it that'd be a good option.

You've all nearly convinced me that piston won't really be necessary so I'll browse some more.

 

[QuantumPion]

I'd go with either a Colt SP6920/SP6940 or a cmmg-inc 14.7" M4 + permanent A2.

 

[Scarpozzi]

I'd go with either a Colt SP6920/SP6940 or a cmmg-inc 14.7" M4 + permanent A2.

I like Colt, Bushmaster, and even S&W....but the prices kill me. When you factor in what you can build them for, plus the fun project factor....I'm glad I built mine.

The best part was when I had already bought all the stuff to build mine and asked my wife if it was alright that I build a rifle. She said yes....I went and started assembling the lower in the living room in front of her.... As I got it assembled and it looked more and more like I gun I then retrieved the complete upper from my closet and joined them in front of her...her jaw dropped because I was holding an assault rifle and she isn't that comfortable with the idea of firearms... She can, however, shoot them...she's deadly with a 44 magnum. I never figured out why she seems to be nervous when I have an unloaded gun in my hand....yet she can light up targets like nobody's business.

 

[zinfamous]

Because the federal crackdown's a-comin'.

lol

 

[boomhower]

Piston's are an answer to a problem that doesn't exist. All you are doing is adding weight to the front of the gun throwing off the balance. Add to the increased costs and harder to find replacement parts and it's a fail boat.

Now, just get a solid DI gun and call it a day. I'm a Daniel Defense guy and for your budget I would go with a DD EZ. Shop around and you can find it at around $1000 and it fits your requirements.

Fact of the matter is for your uses just about any midrange gun will work. A RRA, Stag, S&W, etc. For a weekend plinker you aren't going to notice the difference between a RRA/Stag than a Colt, DD, or BCM. Just buy online to get a good price. Don't be one of those guys that walks into a gun store and pays $1200 for a RRA.

 

[Specop 007]

Stag or Spikes and be happy.

 

[TakeNoPrisoners]

Because the federal crackdown's a-comin'.

The avatar makes this better.

 

[brblx]

without encouraging P&N style debate....please...

...exactly what way are the laws going atm? i'm sure there are plenty of logical, intelligent gun owners here who follow this stuff (kiss of death, that statement).

iirc the restrictions with the assault weapons ban meant if you wanted a semi-auto assault rifle with a pistol grip, you had to ditch any other 'tactical' looking piece; collapsing stock, threaded barrel, and such. iirc a solid stock integrated into the grip was the only way you could legally use a threaded barrel (and therefore flash hiders and muzzle brakes), right?

and i know some states have similar restrictions. even if the federal laws only get as bad as the worst state laws, you can still buy an AR or AK, right? it just might be...a little silly looking.

but even with a relatively minor tightening of laws, wouldn't something like a plain jane M4-style rifle become a relatively valuable item? with time, that is. or would aftermarket vendors still be able to sell you a collapsible stock, different grips, et al? i've always wondered how california does it...does your plastic stock get its own registration like a suppressor? lol.

i'm simply curious because it seems like there are some nice rifles out there for what a bargain basement kit used to cost. i'd love one of those stag m16 or m4 copies (shorter rifle is more useful but i have a soft spot for the plain m16's (a1/a2) and its extra ruggedness better suits any kind of zombie/nuclear/birdflu apocalypse)

what's up with all the testing? does anyone actually consider that stuff to matter if the company backs the weapon? i would figure if you put a good amount of rounds through it in the first year with no problems, it's probably fine. or is it an accuracy/reliability thing? i don't think they cheapies are gonna detonate, but what about feeding issues and other nuisances?

 

[Phanuel]

You were paying for the full-auto and the silencer

Except that suppressors reduce recoil and increase velocity, so the gun should do marginally more damage with it on. But in the name of 'balance' it becomes worse, yay games!

 

[brblx]

...i was under the impression suppressors slowed the round down?

 

[Specop 007]

without encouraging P&N style debate....please...

...exactly what way are the laws going atm? i'm sure there are plenty of logical, intelligent gun owners here who follow this stuff (kiss of death, that statement).

iirc the restrictions with the assault weapons ban meant if you wanted a semi-auto assault rifle with a pistol grip, you had to ditch any other 'tactical' looking piece; collapsing stock, threaded barrel, and such. iirc a solid stock integrated into the grip was the only way you could legally use a threaded barrel (and therefore flash hiders and muzzle brakes), right?

and i know some states have similar restrictions. even if the federal laws only get as bad as the worst state laws, you can still buy an AR or AK, right? it just might be...a little silly looking.

but even with a relatively minor tightening of laws, wouldn't something like a plain jane M4-style rifle become a relatively valuable item? with time, that is. or would aftermarket vendors still be able to sell you a collapsible stock, different grips, et al? i've always wondered how california does it...does your plastic stock get its own registration like a suppressor? lol.

i'm simply curious because it seems like there are some nice rifles out there for what a bargain basement kit used to cost. i'd love one of those stag m16 or m4 copies (shorter rifle is more useful but i have a soft spot for the plain m16's (a1/a2) and its extra ruggedness better suits any kind of zombie/nuclear/birdflu apocalypse)

what's up with all the testing? does anyone actually consider that stuff to matter if the company backs the weapon? i would figure if you put a good amount of rounds through it in the first year with no problems, it's probably fine. or is it an accuracy/reliability thing? i don't think they cheapies are gonna detonate, but what about feeding issues and other nuisances?

The past few years the laws have really swung in the gun owners direction. Of course it only takes 1 bad court case or 1 heart attack (replacement of a federal judge) to swing things back in the favor of the anti's. But as it stands now we've make some great strides.

As far as the worth yes pre-ban stuff is worth more than post ban stuff when you look at state laws. New York comes to mind. They pay a premium to get something that was made a few years ago just for the sake of making a few people feel good about their actions in "fighting crime" and keeping people safe.

As far as testing and such no matter the weapon you should always run a good number of rounds through it to function test it. The worst time to find out your weapon doesnt seem to like hollow points or some particular brand of ammunition is when you NEED it to go bang such as a self defense issue.

 

[Specop 007]

...i was under the impression suppressors slowed the round down?

Slows down gasses, very minor increase in velocity. Figure 50 FPS or so as a good average, maybe less maybe more.

 

[Phanuel]

...i was under the impression suppressors slowed the round down?

Nope, they increase back pressure and prevent the gas from expanding as quickly as it normally would once the round has exited the barrel and continuing to accelerate the round while in the can. They're 50-150fps increases in velocity typically, bigger increases on bolt guns. I really really want a .308 can for my boltgun but living CA, alas... I can dream though.

 

[gorcorps]

I like Colt, Bushmaster, and even S&W....but the prices kill me. When you factor in what you can build them for, plus the fun project factor....I'm glad I built mine.

The best part was when I had already bought all the stuff to build mine and asked my wife if it was alright that I build a rifle. She said yes....I went and started assembling the lower in the living room in front of her.... As I got it assembled and it looked more and more like I gun I then retrieved the complete upper from my closet and joined them in front of her...her jaw dropped because I was holding an assault rifle and she isn't that comfortable with the idea of firearms... She can, however, shoot them...she's deadly with a 44 magnum. I never figured out why she seems to be nervous when I have an unloaded gun in my hand....yet she can light up targets like nobody's business.

So assuming I get a full upper from Spikes (which includes a buffer) what individual parts would I need to build my own lower? And which is the one part I need to get from a dealer?

 

[Specop 007]

So assuming I get a full upper from Spikes (which includes a buffer) what individual parts would I need to build my own lower? And which is the one part I need to get from a dealer?

Lower receiver is the part that needs to be transferred. Everything else can be purchased direct, and you'll need a stock, buffer tube, buffer spring, buffer, LPK "Lower parts kit"....I think that covers it.

 

[brblx]

buy the lower assembled if the price isn't much different.

i've heard some of the assembly is a bit of a pain in the ass (trigger group prolly).