smackababy
Lifer
- Oct 30, 2008
- 27,024
- 79
- 86
Yeah, piano dollies can be quite nice. =) Unless one has to move an actual piano. Even with them, it is a PITA because even a baby grand is stupidly heavy.
What is limiting it from fitting snugly? Thickness? Here's an image showing a 480mm and 240mm at the bottom compartment and it fits well. I don't recall the AX360 being a double thickness radiator nor the fact that you might be doing a push pull, that should leave ample space for all the radiators at the bottom.I watched a bunch of videos on the 900D, and someone said that you could fit a 3x120 at the bottom with the PSU. No, you definitely can't!
What is limiting it from fitting snugly? Thickness? Here's an image showing a 480mm and 240mm at the bottom compartment and it fits well. I don't recall the AX360 being a double thickness radiator nor the fact that you might be doing a push pull, that should leave ample space for all the radiators at the bottom.
I have mounted pumps with velcro in the past. You really do need to dampen their vibrations or over a period of a few years the pump will progressively pull the rivets in your case apart and it will start to rattle. So instead these days I mount on foam pump noise dampeners and that removes almost all of the vibrations through the case as well as any noise that was associated with the pump vibrations. I had previously mounted it on aluminium and my case shock so you could feel it putting your hand on the top, soft and absorbing not big and attached to the case strongly is my advice. Just velcro isn't going to be good enough IMO, but then I do use 2 18W DDC ultras so they really shake.
I know the ones you mean with the black bits on them. Those where what separated my aluminium block and pump from my case, and over 3 years it shock apart and rattled more and more (a Lian li V2000, a very well made case). Something like these presumably: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...on_Dampening_Mounts_52007.html?tl=g30c107s156
Now I use two of these: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...Universal_Pump_Base_52128.html?tl=g30c107s156. That finally works to dampen all the vibrations and I can only really feel vibrations in the radiators (tubing is carrying the vibrations), but its not enough to shake the case in anyway. I attach the pads using the sticky velcro.
In the past I have stuck a 360 radiator (thermochill PA 120.3) using sticky velcro and I could turn the case upside down they stayed in place, its impressively sticky. When I finally removed them it took a lot of force to get the velcro off and it left a residue behind on boyh the radiators and case that I can't remove and so its permanently sticky.
I'd think some residue could easily be removed with some cleaner and a light abrasive pad. I can't imagine any substance being able to withstand a bit of elbow grease and some nail polish remover.
I would think you could mount it with an adhesive or some sort. I know they have clips to mount them (http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/iastunreho.html) that might be easier to mount and deal with than the reservoir itself.
You could probably find a way to mount it with zip ties if you prefer a more "ghetto" setup and not drilling / adhesive. If you were to drill in the back of the case, I wouldn't see a huge problem because it is really just the MB tray you're drilling in to. Just mark the holes and have at it!
Well, to be fair I can't do 3x360 radiators.However, I can do 2x480 + 2x120 + 140 without modding!
Also, I bet that you could build a case with tube reservoir support. all it really requires are fairly small horizontal slits in the case -- sort of like what they used to use for 5-1/4" bays that let you slide the drive around until it was in the right spot (and you'd tighten the screws completely).
Oh, and I decided that I wasn't done. The nerd in me wasn't satisfied with only upgrading my CPU, so I picked up a used GTX 680 (EVGA and almost all of the warranty is left). I'm normally a bit apprehensive over SLI, but dual 680s still stomps a single 780. I've never actually done SLI before.![]()
Finally putting the water cooling to work![]()
Using a center punch, make a pilot hole and it'll ensure that the drill bit stays centered rather than straying and doing damage to painted surface.
I wouldn't use a dremel for drilling purposes as it spins too fast and can cause the drill bit to stray like a top. Regular drills are better suited as they have slower speed but higher torque, similar to what you would find on a bench drill press.
A dremel is not recommended but could work if using proper techniques. First of course would be to create a pilot hole. Next would be to initially do short pulses rather than setting it on full. Once the hole is big enough, you should be able to use it on semi full speed, which is still faster than a conventional drill at full speed.I guess I could pick up a drill if it's really a problem.![]()
