I don't know if its true or not but I worry more about the pump rather than the reservoir. The water coming would be at its hottest when it enters the reservoir and it will of course affects the longevity of the pump since there is heat coming from the motor and the fluid that runs through it.
Yeah, there seemed to be two prevailing opinions that I read in regard to ordering. Some people said that it doesn't really matter that much
as long as your flow is good, and others preferred to put a radiator after the pump to help remove some of the heat generated by the pump.
But the thing is, the fluid that passes throughout the tubes will not have the same temperature as you see on your CPU or GPU readout. The fluid only acts as a heat transfer medium and with the fluid passing at a very fast rate(wicks heat from blocks and expels the heat through the radiator rapidly), it doesn't have the same high temp like the CPU or GPU.
That's true. That's one reason why I wouldn't mind putting temp sensors in various spots on my build. I don't think it would be necessary, but part of this is a learning experience for me. So, it'd be interesting to see the temperature differences in spots such as reservoir, post-CPU and post-GPU. Although, given the rather large expense of the build so far, I'd rather not tack on multiple $10 sensors that require $10 elbows... and then figure out how to route the cables!
Well if you think it will look awesome who am I to judge. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
Haha, I wouldn't call it beautiful! However, I think a little 1.5" flange hanging off my GPU (that's the same color as the inlet/outlet portion of the GPU block) is a lot nicer than a permanent tube with a fill cap on the end.

My only worry right now... are quick disconnects designed to hold pressure for long periods of time or are they designed for convenience
when things are turned off. My plan is to hook the threaded female into the outlet portion of the GPU and leaving it detatched until I need to drain. I don't know exactly how it works, so I can't make any assumptions.
You can do with a single 360mm radiator, provided that it is the double thickness variant like XSPC RX360, no overclocking and be satisfied with a higher temp delta or higher noise output.
I ended up going with the AX radiator. If the RX wouldn't have covered the grommet, I probably would've went with it instead. It's a bit neurotic of me, but I just didn't like that grommet being covered... even if the cable would still work. :\ I've been a bit vocal with some of my issues with the 800D, so I've really been wanting to get my hands on a 900D since it's been announced. Unfortunately, I haven't seen it on the major retailers. All that space behind the motherboard looks amazing!
WC does get pretty expensive
Yeah, it really does. I joked to a friend that I could just buy a GTX 780 and a huge air cooler for the same price, and the not-so-funny part... I wasn't really joking.

The nice part though is that I can probably upgrade to just about anything and keep almost every component. The only thing that will probably need to be replaced in future computer upgrade is my GPU block.
No shortest loop always win... go with whatever route is the shortest.... Typically res sits b4 a pump for bleeding reasons...Res before pump means the pump is always pushing water unless your pump is located higher then the res, which means major bleeding problems to come.
Yeah, I went with a bay reservoir + pump setup, which I heard are a bit of a pain to bleed.
ROFL u know i brought back QDC's to our hobby. I begged and begged koolance to sponsor me and my testers. No one trusted koolance back in the days.
No one wanted to touch them with a 10 foot pole... I got lucky with dean and they did. They were excellent at followup and advice... applied it.. koolance QDC's are almost manditory in any high LC build now.
Hmm I wouldn't have suspected that they were considered mandatory since I still see some flak from people on forums and such when it comes to QDCs. I think it was on Martin's where he was testing pressure drops from various components that showed that QDCs drop the pressure 10x more than normal fittings. I think it was something like .5 vs. .05, but I might be remembering incorrectly. Although, as I mentioned above, I'm still not sure if the QDC Will work like I need it to.
Yes.. only a very select few can handle that many amperage tho.
I only have four fans for the water cooling, so I was probably just going to hook them up separately right now. Although, I'm thinking that I'll need to go out and buy extension cables for them or just use a Zalman single fan controller for the time being (I have one left over from an old CNPS air cooler).
The fan controller in question has three sets of pins that represent Red, Green and Blue. To determine the LCD color, you attach a jumper to the pins representing one of the colors and mix to get what you need. Since it most likely just toggles power to a set of LEDs, removing all pins would effectively turn off the display but leave the controller running.
The moonsoon? As in DD's?
DD went out of business... id suggest you look at koolance's gear..
Koolance has one of the best warrenties in or hobby... no one comes close... not even swiftech and definitely not eK.
If koolance messes up, they say sorry, and BAM! revision is sent to you... if the other companies mess up, they blame us first.. then wait until we PROVED it was there fault.. and then think about offering a RMA.
I'm not sure who handles Monsoon stuff now, but they definitely seem to be making new items. I did go with a few Koolance items though such as their CPU380I water block. I was considering their bay reservoir, and part of me thinks that I should have considered it more given the dual pump support is nice for expandability.
EDIT:
I saw your post in the other thread, aig, and to let you know, the fan controller that we're talking about is the Lamptron 5C (Version 2) that you like so much.
