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Tagan ABS Black pearl complete

roid450

Senior member
I have been working on this for a few weeks, doing a lil bit of work here and there, and all the sleeving. I thought I would share this here, I already have it on another forum but I hadn't been on Anandtech in a while. (sorry for any bad lighting, I don't have anywhere good to take pictures at and limited camara skills 🙂 )

http://i557.photobucket.com/al...ck%20pearl/done002.jpg
http://i557.photobucket.com/al...ck%20pearl/done004.jpg
http://i557.photobucket.com/al...ck%20pearl/doneeee.jpg
http://i557.photobucket.com/al...e/blackneardone006.jpg
http://i557.photobucket.com/al...e/blackneardone008.jpg
http://i557.photobucket.com/al...e/blackneardone010.jpg

Many people do not like to have more than a CPU or NB on a radiator, but not having enough money for 2 loops led me to put everything on one loop, and to my surprise the temps are Great. CPU idles in a 80F room temp at 39-41C and loads on Prime 95 after 3 hrs at ~57C and Intel Burn test at ~60C
 
Looks great! Are those side panels stock or did you add the window / mesh? I could have sworn it came with just mesh at the top (no window) stock, and no bottom opening.
 
Thanks to all the comments.

Cursethesky: It only comes with the top window meshed, I put 1/8" window on it and then had the bottom vent water jetted on both sides like a Silverstone TJ07, this GREATLY helped temperatures since the Radiator has a very steady flow of air form both sides.

Corp Thug: it takes about 2 hrs to do the 24 pin mobo, if you have done it before. Takes about 30 minutes for a 6 pin plug for PCI express.

Tullphan: I was somewhat concerned about putting it all in one loop, but the radiator has such a massive heat dissipation ability that I thought "why waste that on just 1-2 blocks" plus as I said, I don't have the money to get another pump and radiator. I barely was able to squeeze by to finish this build.

Here are some shots I took last night messing with my camara and iso speeds etc... I have never been able ot successfully take pics of my setup with just the cathodes, they always came out blurry, noisy, and just crappy. I used a small stand to hold the camara steady.
http://www3.picturepush.com/ph...ck-Pearl/night-026.jpg
http://www1.picturepush.com/ph...ck-Pearl/night-025.jpg
http://www1.picturepush.com/ph...ck-Pearl/night-023.jpg

For any that caught it, yes that is hot glue on the video card to help alleviate some of the sqealing it had, but now is gone. Also excuse the dust :frown: 🙁

I also do not use any clamps on my setup, with the exception of the bottom steel clamp on the t fitting, I stretched the end of the tube out too far on that part and had a very slow leak, so I just clamped it.
 
Originally posted by: Corporate Thug
dude, how long does it take to sleeve like that? I assume it takes a good amount of skill to do so?

QTF, if I ever wanted to do that I think I would definitely outsource it. It looks amazing but I don't have the patients to pull it off.
 
Originally posted by: roid450
Thanks to all the comments.

Cursethesky: It only comes with the top window meshed, I put 1/8" window on it and then had the bottom vent water jetted on both sides like a Silverstone TJ07, this GREATLY helped temperatures since the Radiator has a very steady flow of air form both sides.

Corp Thug: it takes about 2 hrs to do the 24 pin mobo, if you have done it before. Takes about 30 minutes for a 6 pin plug for PCI express.

Where did you get the mesh? Did you cut the panels yourself?
You need to do a YouTube on sleeving! 😉
 
Nice 450, you may want to use zip tie on those barbs. Over time the tubing will relax to the point that the tubes with positive pressure will begin to leak. I use the same barbs/ tubing on all my builds now and very seldom have trouble.
 
Originally posted by: Tullphan
Originally posted by: roid450
Thanks to all the comments.

Cursethesky: It only comes with the top window meshed, I put 1/8" window on it and then had the bottom vent water jetted on both sides like a Silverstone TJ07, this GREATLY helped temperatures since the Radiator has a very steady flow of air form both sides.

Corp Thug: it takes about 2 hrs to do the 24 pin mobo, if you have done it before. Takes about 30 minutes for a 6 pin plug for PCI express.

Where did you get the mesh? Did you cut the panels yourself?
You need to do a YouTube on sleeving! 😉

I got the mesh from a metals supply place. I got the side vents cut out by a friends with his water jet machine that shoots water at 60,000 PSI and cuts up to 2" thick solid metal.

There are plenty of youtube videos on sleeving :d much better than I could make.


Originally posted by: WoodButcher
Nice 450, you may want to use zip tie on those barbs. Over time the tubing will relax to the point that the tubes with positive pressure will begin to leak. I use the same barbs/ tubing on all my builds now and very seldom have trouble.


Yeah clamps are always a good idea, but it is so hard to get the tubing over the Fat Boy barbs that the fit is very tight, I have gone up to 2 months before removing a tube and it was still VERY tight. I have also reused tubing that I pulled off and even though it was stretched some, it fit back fine and no leaks.
 
Originally posted by: roid450
Yeah clamps are always a good idea, but it is so hard to get the tubing over the Fat Boy barbs that the fit is very tight, I have gone up to 2 months before removing a tube and it was still VERY tight. I have also reused tubing that I pulled off and even though it was stretched some, it fit back fine and no leaks.

Agreed, I've done a little testing, although I didn't have fatboys at the time note the pex stopper, that held about 15 lbs without the tie. That section of tubing is the 3/8" clearflex and the pex fitting is smaller in dia than a fatboy. 50 was where the tygon cut loose.
 
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