Tack strips to concrete, and what the heck, Home Depot?

DrPizza

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Mar 5, 2001
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Anyone know what type of glue to use for bonding carpet tack strips to concrete? I'm doing it myself, so waiting 24 hours to install the carpet is no problem. Since it's a floating floor that butts up to concrete block, the strips are 3/4" from the edge. Nail down strips (I think) might chip off the concrete instead of holding the strips down. I'm not afraid to drill - attempted that last night; killed the bit in 2 holes. I'm not sure what kind of aggregate was used, but hole 1 - in like it was going through butter for 3/4", then stopped dead in its tracks for 10 seconds, then slowly went to the required depth. Hole 2: in like through butter. Hole 3: stopped dead in its tracks after 1/2", never made progress, burned up the cheap concrete bit that came with the anchors. I can switch to a diamond bit, but... glue?



And, what the heck, Home Depot? "Cool! Home Depot rents tools! I'll rent a carpet kicker!" Bull****, Home Depot. You'd have to be a fool to rent instead of buy it, given the relative prices.
 

waffleironhead

Diamond Member
Aug 10, 2005
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I think you could use pl400 to do that. I've never used it for that purpose, but it fits the bill.
 

mizzou

Diamond Member
Jan 2, 2008
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Dumb question, but you are using an impact driver to drill into the concrete vs a regular drill?
 

Greenman

Lifer
Oct 15, 1999
21,690
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I've never seen glued down tack strip, always nailed. If for some reason I had to glue them I'd use Simpson SET or SET XP for no other reason than I always have some around.
 

boomerang

Lifer
Jun 19, 2000
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Is it easy to remove?
I've never used it, I just found the link. I don't know of any epoxy that is easy to remove if it has a good bond.

And I guess I'd better say that I am assuming it's an epoxy. Two parts mixing in a mixing nozzle like that usually means it's an epoxy.
 

Carson Dyle

Diamond Member
Jul 2, 2012
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What were you planning on doing with the holes? Screws?

I always thought concrete nails were normally used. I'd try it first before assuming the concrete is going to chip.
 

Zodiark1593

Platinum Member
Oct 21, 2012
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Concrete tack strip (already has concrete nails) are typically used. However, having nailed the stuff myself, it can be an absolute PITA depending on the concrete. The nail either goes in nice and easy, or you need excessive force to even do anything, the latter results more often in chipped slab. In the few times I've had to use glue due to damaged concrete, I've used Chemrex.

In most cases, the distance from the base board on tack strip is about a finger's width, give or take.

Given the price of tools, and possible the size of the install, I'd consider a pro installer. If you're using a kicker to install a large room, you are in for some hell. Ask me how I know. (hint: my dad installs the stuff). Stretchers don't come cheap.
 
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DrPizza

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I ended up just getting a new, better bit for the drill; yes, hammer drill. I had the bit that came with a box of tapcon screws; the "knowledgeable" person in the aisle said that those bits work well with things like cinder blocks, but suck for concrete. I put that in quotes, because to speed things up a bit, I wanted some plastic anchors that you simply drive a nail into, rather than screw into. He was as useless as the guy who took me to the section for carpet transition pieces when I clearly explained that I wanted the t-transition piece that matched the oak to go from engineered hardwood to tile. Normally, I find the stuff myself; but someone actually offered assistance. Turns out that when they're helpful, it's even worse than when you can't find an employee.

edit: oh, and the thing that cemented (pun intended) my decision: 3 reviews of the tack strips with concrete nails in them. 2 rated the product as a 1 out of 5 stars, saying the nails weren't robust enough and bent more than half the time. I wasn't into experimenting to discover I had a second case of tack strips that were useless, and then another hour trip to get something I knew would work. I gave up on glue/epoxy, since the guy said, "sometimes, they glue them to concrete." "Yep. You know what kind of glue holds well enough?" "Uhhh, I'm not sure, uh."
 
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Carson Dyle

Diamond Member
Jul 2, 2012
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They must make tack strips that aren't prenailed. Then buy a box of 3/4" to 1" concrete nails.

But there's a lot to be said for doing what you know will work, even if it takes twice as much labor.
 

Zodiark1593

Platinum Member
Oct 21, 2012
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They must make tack strips that aren't prenailed. Then buy a box of 3/4" to 1" concrete nails.

But there's a lot to be said for doing what you know will work, even if it takes twice as much labor.

Considering the amount of labor involved fixing a hack job, this should be a common sense thing.

I too recommend getting extra concrete nails. Even if you chip the concrete on one, you can throw another nail nearby.
 

Howard

Lifer
Oct 14, 1999
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I ended up just getting a new, better bit for the drill; yes, hammer drill. I had the bit that came with a box of tapcon screws; the "knowledgeable" person in the aisle said that those bits work well with things like cinder blocks, but suck for concrete. I put that in quotes, because to speed things up a bit, I wanted some plastic anchors that you simply drive a nail into, rather than screw into. He was as useless as the guy who took me to the section for carpet transition pieces when I clearly explained that I wanted the t-transition piece that matched the oak to go from engineered hardwood to tile. Normally, I find the stuff myself; but someone actually offered assistance. Turns out that when they're helpful, it's even worse than when you can't find an employee.

edit: oh, and the thing that cemented (pun intended) my decision: 3 reviews of the tack strips with concrete nails in them. 2 rated the product as a 1 out of 5 stars, saying the nails weren't robust enough and bent more than half the time. I wasn't into experimenting to discover I had a second case of tack strips that were useless, and then another hour trip to get something I knew would work. I gave up on glue/epoxy, since the guy said, "sometimes, they glue them to concrete." "Yep. You know what kind of glue holds well enough?" "Uhhh, I'm not sure, uh."
I've used those concrete bits on regular drills. Takes a while but isn't too bad if you've only got a few holes to make.
 

TheSlamma

Diamond Member
Sep 6, 2005
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You use concrete tack strips, same thing as regular but they have concrete nails instead.
 

DrPizza

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You use concrete tack strips, same thing as regular but they have concrete nails instead.
Yep, I knew that. But, depending on the quality of concrete used, sometimes the nails that come with it aren't robust enough to penetrate without bending, at least according to the reviews of the concrete strips they sell at Home Depot - negative reviews as well as positive reviews.

I already had 40 or so strips leftover from a box of 100 that I had used on a previous job, and didn't want another box of leftovers laying around (they're less than 20 cents each if you get a box of 100, but over $2 for 3 of them if you get lesser quantities; thus it doesn't make sense to get lesser quantities unless you need 1 or 2 or 3.

So, out of this job, I got a new hammer drill, new drill bits, won't have as many leftover tack strips, and it's working great. (Just put in the transition pieces between the engineered hardwood and the tile entryway; used the plugs which I would have needed for that task regardless of what I used for the rest of the room.)
 

Free_Speech

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Apr 19, 2015
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Yep, I knew that. But, depending on the quality of concrete used, sometimes the nails that come with it aren't robust enough to penetrate without bending, at least according to the reviews of the concrete strips they sell at Home Depot - negative reviews as well as positive reviews.

I already had 40 or so strips leftover from a box of 100 that I had used on a previous job, and didn't want another box of leftovers laying around (they're less than 20 cents each if you get a box of 100, but over $2 for 3 of them if you get lesser quantities; thus it doesn't make sense to get lesser quantities unless you need 1 or 2 or 3.

So, out of this job, I got a new hammer drill, new drill bits, won't have as many leftover tack strips, and it's working great. (Just put in the transition pieces between the engineered hardwood and the tile entryway; used the plugs which I would have needed for that task regardless of what I used for the rest of the room.)
It sounds almost like Terrazo.
The proper method would be to use a hammer-drill with masonry bit and aluminum nails.
 

Blanky

Platinum Member
Oct 18, 2014
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When my basement was done the guy did in fact nail strips into the concrete (not sure if with a hammer or powder). He said that the concrete was so hard, though, that he ended up having to drill a bunch in. The drill bits that come with tapcon screws can tolerate many holes (I drilled a bunch into the same concrete when framing the basement), and go in quite quickly with a hammer drill (albeit loudly).

I personally hate the thought of nailing into concrete for the reason you mentioned. It's a really hard material and far better suited for screwing, but I wasn't the one laying the carpet so didn't have any say in the matter unfortunately.
 
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echo4747

Golden Member
Jun 22, 2005
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Yep, I knew that. But, depending on the quality of concrete used, sometimes the nails that come with it aren't robust enough to penetrate without bending, at least according to the reviews of the concrete strips they sell at Home Depot - negative reviews as well as positive reviews.

I already had 40 or so strips leftover from a box of 100 that I had used on a previous job, and didn't want another box of leftovers laying around (they're less than 20 cents each if you get a box of 100, but over $2 for 3 of them if you get lesser quantities; thus it doesn't make sense to get lesser quantities unless you need 1 or 2 or 3.

So, out of this job, I got a new hammer drill, new drill bits, won't have as many leftover tack strips, and it's working great. (Just put in the transition pieces between the engineered hardwood and the tile entryway; used the plugs which I would have needed for that task regardless of what I used for the rest of the room.)
Do you have a hammer drill? I put carpet tack strips in concrete with the "blue colored" tapecon screws available @ home depot/lowes. If you purchase the bigger size package of screws (~100 screws or so varies with size length of screw) it usually includes a bit. You should easily get 25 or more holes with the bit included, Extra bits aren't that expensive as well

** gorilla glue may work too
 
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DrPizza

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Do you have a hammer drill? I put carpet tack strips in concrete with the "blue colored" tapecon screws available @ home depot/lowes. If you purchase the bigger size package of screws (~100 screws or so varies with size length of screw) it usually includes a bit. You should easily get 25 or more holes with the bit included, Extra bits aren't that expensive as well

** gorilla glue may work too

Yep, I have a hammer drill. The bit that came with the tapcon box of screws (50 pack) was dead after 3 holes. The new bit that I got has done a couple dozen holes already. I'd have finished, but I kept hearing a commercial on pandora for 4 bags of Scott's mulch for $10. Had to run to the store. :) Maybe I got a bad bit? But given how even my wife commented that sometimes the new bit goes in like it's going into margarine, and sometimes it takes a lot of effort before it makes any progress at all, I'm thinking that something in the aggregate is pretty darn hard. Quartz or granite maybe?
 

3chordcharlie

Diamond Member
Mar 30, 2004
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Yep, I have a hammer drill. The bit that came with the tapcon box of screws (50 pack) was dead after 3 holes. The new bit that I got has done a couple dozen holes already. I'd have finished, but I kept hearing a commercial on pandora for 4 bags of Scott's mulch for $10. Had to run to the store. :) Maybe I got a bad bit? But given how even my wife commented that sometimes the new bit goes in like it's going into margarine, and sometimes it takes a lot of effort before it makes any progress at all, I'm thinking that something in the aggregate is pretty darn hard. Quartz or granite maybe?
That sounds like what you have (some of the aggregate is very hard).

I wasted a whole day trying to drill in concrete in a granite-infested area. With the good bits I was averaging about 2 1" holes per bit before the tip completely melted.

For the record, ramset works quite well. In harder concretes you have to hammer it the rest of the way in.
 

DrPizza

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I saw that video the other day. I searched for mats cement online; I struck out. Doesn't appear to be available at the box stores or the hardware store I went to. All's done except around the hearth area for the pellet stove; waiting for my wife to pick out the type of transition molding she wants so that I know where to set the tack strips (or if I need tack strips.)
 
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ERHandyman

Junior Member
Jun 20, 2018
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The appropriate product would be BASF Masterweld 948.

This product would is actually labeled for use in securing tack strips to substrates like concrete. My carpet installer is currently using this for installation of tack strips in an occupied 250 room hotel with post-tensioned concrete slabs that we are renovating, where noise is an issue for the client.

Best of luck.

https://www.master-builders-solutions.basf.us/en-us/products/masterweld/masterweld-948.