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Synthetic Oil change

EagleKeeper

EagleKeeper

Discussion Club Moderator<br>Elite Member
Staff member
09 Grand Cherokee
90k Miles on 3.7L
Oil is changed every 5K+ miles.

Presently driving 150 a day interstate commute.

Did I waste $$ putting in Synthetic vs High Mileage this time?
 
If you change it at 5k then yes it will be a waste.

5k you can do that on Reg oil, no need for syn or even high milage.
 
I dont think so. You can probably extend your oil change interval to 7500 mi with synthetic oil. Use a good oil filter ( no Fram ).
 
When I'm running Amsoil then I generally go 10-20k miles on a change. 3.8l v6 in a buick regal 175k miles, over 100 mile commute each day.
 
Gillbot said:
I run regular oil to 7500, but I also test it to be sure it isn't breaking down.
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Was using regular spec oil for first 50K. Then shifted to High Mileage.

Figured I can extend interval to 7500 with Synthetic. Can I use the High Mileage to 7500?

Breakdown test still by color?
 
Only for 6-9 months is this tour.

Even saving $30 a week in fuel does not cover the cost of getting a temp vehicle.

I tie up $3-4K, loose $750-$1000 buying/selling and charges for taxes and registration
 
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oldsmoboat said:
Not everyone falls for that malarkey.

And 5k on dino oil is fine.
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I run my truck to 7500 on dino oil and i'm not even concerned about it. Then again, it is a company truck too. 😉

Most good oils today should be able to last 7500 without problems.
 
Gillbot said:
I run my truck to 7500 on dino oil and i'm not even concerned about it. Then again, it is a company truck too. 😉

Most good oils today should be able to last 7500 without problems.
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Not only that most of his miles are highway so I can see him hitting 7000ish range and not having any problems.

I tell people 5000 as many can make the jump from the 3000 to 5000 but tell them they can do anymore and now they think you are lieing and drop back to the 3000 bs rule. Let alone most go over what you tell them so 5000 equals 6000ish in my family.
 
I think 7.5k is fine on dino, depending on driving. If I was spinning up the motor a lot racing around or driving on dirt roads, I'd probably chang it at 5k.

I run synthetic in my bike (water cooled) and I change it at 3k. But I race the motor. I know it's a waste but I :wub: my bike.
 
Jimzz said:
Not only that most of his miles are highway so I can see him hitting 7000ish range and not having any problems.

I tell people 5000 as many can make the jump from the 3000 to 5000 but tell them they can do anymore and now they think you are lieing and drop back to the 3000 bs rule. Let alone most go over what you tell them so 5000 equals 6000ish in my family.
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oldsmoboat said:
I think 7.5k is fine on dino, depending on driving. If I was spinning up the motor a lot racing around or driving on dirt roads, I'd probably chang it at 5k.

I run synthetic in my bike (water cooled) and I change it at 3k. But I race the motor. I know it's a waste but I :wub: my bike.
Click to expand...

Yeah, of all the dino oil I test most are fine to 5k easily but some start to shear sharply as they approach 6000-7000. However, with mostly highway miles 7500 should be easy.
 
I've been doing 10k miles changes with synthetic and good filters for years on my Nissans and Hondas, have never had a single issue and they've all been reported to be clean and looking fine on the inside.

I might give the car and trucks an early change right before winter really hits though. I like the thought of the cold starts having fresh oil to use, and more importantly I hate changing oil in the winter. No fancy garage here, and am just not that big a fan of laying on the ground when it's 5 degrees outside.
 
Gillbot said:
Yeah, of all the dino oil I test most are fine to 5k easily but some start to shear sharply as they approach 6000-7000. However, with mostly highway miles 7500 should be easy.
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Do the big name brands fall into that shearing category in your experience? Are you talking about the cheap stuff on sale dino, or like Mobil's basic conventional?


Since I'm here asking, might as well throw this in too: it is my understanding that the reputation of FRAM oil filters is largely undeserved. While there were quality issues with earlier cardboard filters, the current day synthetic-ready silicon gasket equipped FRAM filters work well. I ask because I've had some friends try to convince me to stop spending extra for Mobil 1 filters. Is the $6 FRAM really OK for 10k or beyond?
 
kage69 said:
Do the big name brands fall into that shearing category in your experience? Are you talking about the cheap stuff on sale dino, or like Mobil's basic conventional?


Since I'm here asking, might as well throw this in too: it is my understanding that the reputation of FRAM oil filters is largely undeserved. While there were quality issues with earlier cardboard filters, the current day synthetic-ready silicon gasket equipped FRAM filters work well. I ask because I've had some friends try to convince me to stop spending extra for Mobil 1 filters. Is the $6 FRAM really OK for 10k or beyond?
Click to expand...


There is 1 fram filter ($10+) that has metal end caps and a ok drain back valve. But I have run basic purolators for 10k+ just fine that cost 1/3 of a "good" fram filter.

So why buy a over priced fram filter when wix, purolator, etc... do just as good a job for less.
 
kage69 said:
Do the big name brands fall into that shearing category in your experience? Are you talking about the cheap stuff on sale dino, or like Mobil's basic conventional?


Since I'm here asking, might as well throw this in too: it is my understanding that the reputation of FRAM oil filters is largely undeserved. While there were quality issues with earlier cardboard filters, the current day synthetic-ready silicon gasket equipped FRAM filters work well. I ask because I've had some friends try to convince me to stop spending extra for Mobil 1 filters. Is the $6 FRAM really OK for 10k or beyond?
Click to expand...
It really varies based on brand and product so there is no easy generic rule of thumb.
Jimzz said:
There is 1 fram filter ($10+) that has metal end caps and a ok drain back valve. But I have run basic purolators for 10k+ just fine that cost 1/3 of a "good" fram filter.

So why buy a over priced fram filter when wix, purolator, etc... do just as good a job for less.
Click to expand...
This ^

And MOST of the fram filters are garbage. Just stick with something built by champion labs, Wix, etc and you'll be fine. Personally I run NAPA gold now.
 
If your commute is all highway, 10K on syn or bust.
I run 7500 on conventional, around 10K on syn.
I also am amazed you would commute in such a pig.
Hybrid is not the answer though, they are all but useless on the highway. I have a Civic for my 80 mile per day commute.
 
CraigRT said:
If your commute is all highway, 10K on syn or bust.
I run 7500 on conventional, around 10K on syn.
I also am amazed you would commute in such a pig.
Hybrid is not the answer though, they are all but useless on the highway. I have a Civic for my 80 mile per day commute.
Click to expand...

That pig is needed in Colorado - 30 miles west of Denver.

It also provides the storage capacity to take enough living gear out to where the client is located with the US/Canada every 12 months.

A similar pig has also saved my wife's life when getting t-boned.

This is the first location where I have been more than 20 miles between hotel and client.

And given the storm this past week showing off the quality of Ill and Wi drivers/highway cleanup; I am anticipating to ditch the grandkids and get something much closer.

I can visit on weekends.
 
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