Sylvania silverstar headlights worth it?

MrMatt

Banned
Mar 3, 2009
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I have a 2005 chevy malibu classic, and the headlights on the thing suck balls. I've put up with it for the few years I've had the car but I can't take it anymore. They emit this sickly yellow light and if I'm driving on a dark highway, if I can see 50 feet in front of me it's a fucking miracle. Was thinking of picking up some Sylvania silverstars, but want to know if they're worth the 40 bucks. Anyone have any other suggestions for what I should look at?
 

Gibson486

Lifer
Aug 9, 2000
18,378
1
0
From my experience, headlights only do so much. If your headlight performance is that bad, changing brands will not show a "OMG" improvement.
 
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PricklyPete

Lifer
Sep 17, 2002
14,582
162
106
I'm not really up on all the headlight "tech", but the last time I was at the auto parts store to replace a headlight in my truck, I looked at the life expectency of the basic bulb (copy of what was already in my truck) and the "upgraded" variants like the Silverstars...the silverstars were not just several times more expensive...but they were also going to last a fraction of the time. They better be a LOT better for me to have to deal with replacing them all the time...and paying a ridiculous sum for them.
 

Pariah

Elite Member
Apr 16, 2000
7,357
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81
Silverstars produced a much brighter/whiter light when I had them in my last car. It wasn't just a psychological improvement to justify the cost either. After I put them in, I had passengers comment on how bright my headlights were.

That said, they are quite pricey and they only lasted about a year for me before one blew out. I replaced them with Silverstar Ultras which last longer with the same amount of light. I had those for about 18 months before I sold the car, so they do last longer than the standard variant.

If you look on ebay, you can usually find them a bit cheaper than the local auto parts store.
 

PricklyPete

Lifer
Sep 17, 2002
14,582
162
106
Silverstars produced a much brighter/whiter light when I had them in my last car. It wasn't just a psychological improvement to justify the cost either. After I put them in, I had passengers comment on how bright my headlights were.

That said, they are quite pricey and they only lasted about a year for me before one blew out. I replaced them with Silverstar Ultras which last longer with the same amount of light. I had those for about 18 months before I sold the car, so they do last longer than the standard variant.

If you look on ebay, you can usually find them a bit cheaper than the local auto parts store.

I hope you meant the standard Silverstar variant...as my normal headlights generally last 5-8 years minimum in my experience.
 

Zenmervolt

Elite member
Oct 22, 2000
24,514
34
91
All you need to know about "superwhite" or other tinted bulbs:

Link 1
Link 2

As far as what type to get ("HB4, H4, and H7" etc), you should get the type that fit your car. It's as simple as that.

ZV
 

MrMatt

Banned
Mar 3, 2009
3,905
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All you need to know about "superwhite" or other tinted bulbs:

Link 1
Link 2

As far as what type to get ("HB4, H4, and H7" etc), you should get the type that fit your car. It's as simple as that.

ZV

how do I found out which type fits in my car? I don't have a manual for it....are those h4 & h7, etc. the sizes??
 

Pariah

Elite Member
Apr 16, 2000
7,357
20
81
I hope you meant the standard Silverstar variant...as my normal headlights generally last 5-8 years minimum in my experience.

I meant, the bulbs were still working when I sold the car, so I don't know how long they actually lasted. I used to do a lot of night driving, so for more typical driving patterns, the standard bulbs probably would have lasted longer.
 

CurseTheSky

Diamond Member
Oct 21, 2006
5,401
2
0
Hmmm. The lights in my Fusion are horrible compared to my previous Malibu. Maybe I'll give the GE NightHawks a try.
 

exar333

Diamond Member
Feb 7, 2004
8,518
8
91
get the HIDs yo; you dont need any fancy housings or anything for them. All they do is keep some of the light from your field of vision.

Oh, and always inflate to sidewall too.
 

Apex

Diamond Member
Oct 11, 1999
6,511
1
71
www.gotapex.com
This is the best if you want to stay with a H11 halogen bulb:

http://store.candlepower.com/bconibr90ulh5.html

This being said, it's not that big of a difference.

If you want to swap to an H9 (which is 65w vs 55w of the H11, but is close enough that it won't cause problems), it increases your output from 1350 lumens to 2100 lumens. That'll give you a real, usable bump in output without changing the beam pattern. You'll have to snip off small tabs on the H9 though. It's a pretty quick process. Instructions & pictures:

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=119161

You can pick up H9's pretty much anywhere.
 

Zenmervolt

Elite member
Oct 22, 2000
24,514
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If you want to swap to an H9 (which is 65w vs 55w of the H11, but is close enough that it won't cause problems), it increases your output from 1350 lumens to 2100 lumens. That'll give you a real, usable bump in output without changing the beam pattern.

While an H9 does put out more lumens, the claim that it won't change the beam pattern is absolutely false.

Using an H9 in an H11 assembly most certainly will change the beam pattern. Anyone who tells you otherwise is a blind fool. The tip of an H11 bulb has reflective paint on it to direct light back towards the reflector and H11 assemblies are designed for this. An H9 bulb has no such reflective paint and will not produce the stock beam pattern when used in a housing designed for an H11 bulb.

Also worth noting is that 2100 lumens is considered high output for a high beam headlight. Using 2100 lumen bulbs in low-beam headlights is a recipe for creating massive amounts of glare for other drivers.

The number one problem for most headlights that are "too dim" is that their aim is off significantly. The OP should take the time to aim his headlights properly and then move on from there rather than simply trying to cram the bulb with the highest lumen output into his light assemblies any which way he can. The H7 bulbs in my Volvo put out a "mere" 1400 lumens, but because I actually have the lights aimed correctly, the beam pattern and visibility is incredible.

ZV
 

Apex

Diamond Member
Oct 11, 1999
6,511
1
71
www.gotapex.com
While an H9 does put out more lumens, the claim that it won't change the beam pattern is absolutely false.

Using an H9 in an H11 assembly most certainly will change the beam pattern. Anyone who tells you otherwise is a blind fool. The tip of an H11 bulb has reflective paint on it to direct light back towards the reflector and H11 assemblies are designed for this. An H9 bulb has no such reflective paint and will not produce the stock beam pattern when used in a housing designed for an H11 bulb.

Also worth noting is that 2100 lumens is considered high output for a high beam headlight. Using 2100 lumen bulbs in low-beam headlights is a recipe for creating massive amounts of glare for other drivers.

The number one problem for most headlights that are "too dim" is that their aim is off significantly. The OP should take the time to aim his headlights properly and then move on from there rather than simply trying to cram the bulb with the highest lumen output into his light assemblies any which way he can. The H7 bulbs in my Volvo put out a "mere" 1400 lumens, but because I actually have the lights aimed correctly, the beam pattern and visibility is incredible.

ZV


The tip of the H11 does not have reflective paint on it. It's flat gray. It merely blocks the filament from sight from that angle. The lack of a covered tip on the H9 does not change the pattern substantially. Anyone who tells you otherwise never tried it and is merely assuming things without trying. And we all know what assuming gets us.

However, I absolutely agree with you that it will create more glare for incoming drivers.

How much more though? The real issue is not the lumens, it's the filament. Our eyes do not perceive increases in "brightness" in a linear scale. Human eyes are more logarithmic in scale. A doubling of brightness only yields a perceived 10% of so bump in brightness. This is why 3200 lumen low beam HID's don't blind any but the whiniest of drivers: it's a pattern/focus issue, not brightness issue.
 

MrMatt

Banned
Mar 3, 2009
3,905
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0
This is the best if you want to stay with a H11 halogen bulb:

http://store.candlepower.com/bconibr90ulh5.html

This being said, it's not that big of a difference.

If you want to swap to an H9 (which is 65w vs 55w of the H11, but is close enough that it won't cause problems), it increases your output from 1350 lumens to 2100 lumens. That'll give you a real, usable bump in output without changing the beam pattern. You'll have to snip off small tabs on the H9 though. It's a pretty quick process. Instructions & pictures:

http://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=119161

You can pick up H9's pretty much anywhere.


Hmmm...I might just stick with the h11s for now. i'm not looking for a huge difference, I'd just like to be able to see people crossing the street 30' in front of me at night. Is there anything slightly cheaper? I was hoping to keep it under 25 per bulb
 
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Arkaign

Lifer
Oct 27, 2006
20,736
1,379
126
I've got SS ultras on my Focus, had them almost since I bought the car in Feb '08, and they've been great to this day. There might be better ones out there, but these were pretty cheap and were a big improvement from stock.
 

PhoKingGuy

Diamond Member
Nov 15, 2007
4,685
0
76
Philips HIR X-Treme are what VW people use, but I think its a Euro only thing. I have them in my Jetta and its pretty close to what the HID output on my old GTI was.
 

Apex

Diamond Member
Oct 11, 1999
6,511
1
71
www.gotapex.com
Hmmm...I might just stick with the h11s for now. i'm not looking for a huge difference, I'd just like to be able to see people crossing the street 30' in front of me at night. Is there anything slightly cheaper? I was hoping to keep it under 25 per bulb

CandlePower is Daniel Stern's own store, so it's a pretty reliable place to get stuff.

You can also go through Bing to Ebay and get them for a bit cheaper right about at that $25 per level.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390166539984
 

Apex

Diamond Member
Oct 11, 1999
6,511
1
71
www.gotapex.com
Philips HIR X-Treme are what VW people use, but I think its a Euro only thing. I have them in my Jetta and its pretty close to what the HID output on my old GTI was.

They don't make HIR bulbs in H9/H11 unfortunately. Those Philips/Toshiba bulbs are very nice in the applications they come in though.
 

coxmaster

Diamond Member
Dec 14, 2007
3,017
3
81
Philips HIR X-Treme are what VW people use, but I think its a Euro only thing. I have them in my Jetta and its pretty close to what the HID output on my old GTI was.

OSRAM Nightbreakers are also fairly popular. Ive got SS Ultras also; but the Nightbreakers are WAY better.
 

Zenmervolt

Elite member
Oct 22, 2000
24,514
34
91
The tip of the H11 does not have reflective paint on it. It's flat gray. It merely blocks the filament from sight from that angle. The lack of a covered tip on the H9 does not change the pattern substantially. Anyone who tells you otherwise never tried it and is merely assuming things without trying. And we all know what assuming gets us.

You know what, you're right, I'm completely sure that a bulb throwing light in places the reflector was never designed for will be just fine. :rolleyes:

It is simply not optically possible for the beam pattern to remain the same with the combination of higher output as well as the uncoated tip. The lamp housings designed for H9 bulbs have different reflector designs. These aren't like the old lens-optic headlights that cars used to use, the uncoated tip on the H9 absolutely will fuck with the beam pattern. Basic rules of optics dictate this. It's not a matter of needing to try it to know that.

I don't need to drop a cinder block on my foot to know it will hurt because I have a basic grasp of gravity. Similarly, I know that putting an H9 bulb in an H11 housing will fuck up the beam pattern because I have a basic understanding of optics.

The real issue is not the lumens, it's the filament. Our eyes do not perceive increases in "brightness" in a linear scale. Human eyes are more logarithmic in scale. A doubling of brightness only yields a perceived 10% of so bump in brightness. This is why 3200 lumen low beam HID's don't blind any but the whiniest of drivers: it's a pattern/focus issue, not brightness issue.

Uh, no. The reason that 3200 lumen low beam HIDs don't blind people is because of incredibly tight optical design that limits the amount of light in the hot spot to roughly the same as that of traditional 1300-1400 lumen halogen bulbs. Laws governing beam pattern and maximum lumens in given areas of the pattern dictate this. Almost all of the additional lumens produced by HID lights is "thrown away" into useless areas of the beam pattern to avoid projecting it in places that will cause glare. Interestingly, it's precisely this "wasted" light in non-critical areas that makes drivers believe they are better even when the actual differences in projection distance and visual acuity are negligible.

A housing designed for a 1350 lumen bulb will put a much higher percentage of light into the beam's hot spot than a housing designed for a 2100 lumen bulb. Putting a 2100 lumen bulb in the 1350 lumen housing has a very good chance of causing excessive light in the beam's hot spot and being a legitimate problem for oncoming drivers.

To expound on the issue, I'll quote from Daniel Stern:
A headlamp isn't a flood lamp. With a flood lamp, we put electricity in one end, and we get light out the other end, and we don't really care where the light is, as long as it's in a big ("flood") beam. A headlamp is a much more complex animal, 'cause it has a much harder job to do. It has to maximize your distance vision while minimizing glare to other drivers. It has to light up everything that you need to see, BUT not light up areas that would detract from your ability to see what you need to see. The first point makes it very difficult to improve low-beam headlamps, because increases in seeing distance almost always bring with them higher glare.

The second point is even more crucial. You remember from above my statement that the eye has a different job to do at night than during the day; here's where that comes into play.

During the day, pretty much everything is illuminated relatively evenly. If it's sunny out, everything's bright. If it's cloudy out, contrast is reduced and colors are muted. If it's foggy out, everything's fuzzy. But at night, your world consists not of "everything", but of that which is illuminated by your headlamps. Everything outside of that "world" is dark. Which is fine, except that your "world" moves with you! The extreme contrast between your "world" (that which is illuminated) and everything else (not illuminated) creates the difficulty. That's why we have headlamp glare at night, why we squint when we come out of a movie theatre after watching a perfectly bright screen for 3 hours, why we hold our hand in front of our eyes when looking in the direction of the sunset and trying to read a road sign. It happens on that big scale (inside/outside your "world") and it also happens *within* that "world".

If you illuminate the foreground very strongly, your eyes will adapt to that big area of strong illumination, your pupils will become smaller, and your distance vision will be reduced. (On the other hand, if you take the route prescribed for so long by US headlamp regulations and have very LITTLE foreground illumination, you'll have a "black hole" in front of the car, and you'll be straining to see what you're about to run over...)

So how does this relate to HID headlamps? Well, suddenly we have all this extra light to work with, because we're using an HID arc capsule instead of a bulb. Where are we going to put the extra light? We can put some of it into the high-intensity zone of the beam (the "hot spot") to improve distance vision, but we can't put too much of it there, 'cause we'll glare other drivers (and exceed regulated maximum intensities). We can spread some of it around in the rest of the beam, but there are often even stricter maxima outside of the hot spot or zone, and too much "generalized" light causes veiling glare and backdazzle in bad weather. So we put a lot of it in the foreground. To an extent, that's a good thing, because US headlamps have typically had too little foreground light (see above). But over a certain level, which is quite easy to exceed with an HID headlamp, undesireable things start to happen. We sacrifice distance vision, we get high levels of reflected-light glare on wet roads, that sort of thing.

I'm sure that you think it's fine and that you've managed the swap without getting caught, but the simple fact is that it's physically impossible to put an H9 in an H11 housing and get an identical beam pattern. You may get lucky and not have a truly awful pattern, but it will never be even as good as the original pattern with the H11 bulb.

I say again, the OP needs to have his headlights aimed properly and proceed from there, not just shove any ol' high-lumen bulb into the socket.

ZV
 

Zenmervolt

Elite member
Oct 22, 2000
24,514
34
91
CandlePower is Daniel Stern's own store, so it's a pretty reliable place to get stuff.

Daniel only sells through E-mail. Candlepower is a separate entity.

Daniel Stern's store:
Where's the shopping cart...?

There isn't one. Choosing automotive lighting devices and bulbs is a fair bit more complex than it might seem, and a great deal more complex than some vendors would have you believe. Prewrap, one-for-all offerings generally don't give results as satisfactory as solutions specifically put together for your needs on your vehicles under your driving conditions. Often, the products you want because you've seen them, heard or read about them, are in fact not the ones that'll do the best job of accomplishing your actual lighting goals.

So, I've opted to carry on providing personal, one-on-one consultation ("How can I help you?) rather than installing a shopping cart ("Gimme yer money and get outta my face!"). Old-fashioned? A little slower? Yep, especially if you're experienced and knowledgeable, and I realize that. But, I really feel my enviable reputation for customer satisfaction is worth it. If you don't agree, you may choose to shop elsewhere, and that's OK. But if you agree with me, please feel free to E-mail me your query and I'll be happy to get your needs handled. Ordering isn't hard; I accept credit cards and various other forms of money, and we'll discuss it once we've worked out your order.

Candlepower is indeed reliable, but it's not Daniel Stern's store.

ZV