SuperGlue

Status
Not open for further replies.

TheStu

Moderator<br>Mobile Devices & Gadgets
Moderator
Sep 15, 2004
12,089
45
91
I have an older PowerBook with a bum power connector. The pins got torn off the logic board (apparently a common flaw) and I use superglue to reattach it. It worked just fine for quite some time, but then I had to open up the laptop again to replace the hard drive. It tore off again, and again I superglued it and again it worked.

Well, then I had to open it again to see if I could salvage parts from it to repair another PowerBook. Well, it tore again, and I didn't mind so much, but at this point I want to try to fix it up to sell it maybe or at least have it as a third system for guests.

Superglue is no longer working, so I am left to try and solder the very, very small points. Less than a millimeter thick, and in order to reach them I would need to remove the superglue.

I know that acetone will work, but does it have any effect on silicone? I don't want to further damage the system.
 

MadScientist

Platinum Member
Jul 15, 2001
2,183
63
91
Maybe this should be moved to the Computer Help section to get more replies.

The few Powerbook G4s that I've had to replace the dc jack on, that is what you are referring to?, I've been lucky that they all had a DC In or combo DC In/Sound board with the DC jack on it that plugged into the bottom of the logic board.
If your powerbook has a separate DC In board it would be a lot easier to replace it then removing and re-soldering the old DC jack.
You can get one fairly cheap from ebay. http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m570.l1313&_nkw=powerbook+dc+jack&_sacat=See-All-Categories

If your DC jack is on the logic board then the best method to remove the Superglue would be first to mechanically scrape off as much as you can with a small razor blade or sandpaper, then use an acetone or nail polish remover (that contains acetone not MEK) soaked Q-Tip to remove the rest.
Not sure what silicone you are referring to, but acetone will dissolve silicone, plastics, and the epoxy resin of the circuit boards.
 

TheStu

Moderator<br>Mobile Devices & Gadgets
Moderator
Sep 15, 2004
12,089
45
91
No, the DC-in board was also bad on that PowerBook, but I have since replaced it. This is where the power button connects to the logic board.
 

Modelworks

Lifer
Feb 22, 2007
16,240
7
76
Be careful when soldering around superglue. It wasn't meant to be burned and when it is burned by the soldering iron produces very toxic fumes, hydrogen cyanide and acrylonitrile (cancer causing) are the main ones. Make sure you are in well ventilated area and do not inhale the fumes.
 

yottabit

Golden Member
Jun 5, 2008
1,671
874
146
Just an idea but you could try a two part epoxy instead of superglue it typically works better for bonding dissimilar or less than perfectly prepared materials

As mentioned before acetone will eat silicone. I'm not sure if there is a silicone-friendly solvent for cyanoacrylate (superglue)
 

gsellis

Diamond Member
Dec 4, 2003
6,061
0
0
I use a whole bunch of glues for stone cutting (faceting, intarsia). Acetone on a q-tip with a couple reapplications will do it. I buy the 1/2g acetone cans just for removing CA and epoxy. And when you say silicon, which one? Silicon rubber? Yes, acetone will work on it. It will discolor it first IIRC. Controlling the application is the key. Heat releases CA too at about 135 degrees F. Consider that when using it and that may explain why you keep having to reapply. If you use a toothpick, first make the connection again with CA, then put some 2 part epoxy to reenforce it with the toothpick. Normal 2 part epoxy releases around 158 F or higher.
 

TheStu

Moderator<br>Mobile Devices & Gadgets
Moderator
Sep 15, 2004
12,089
45
91
I use a whole bunch of glues for stone cutting (faceting, intarsia). Acetone on a q-tip with a couple reapplications will do it. I buy the 1/2g acetone cans just for removing CA and epoxy. And when you say silicon, which one? Silicon rubber? Yes, acetone will work on it. It will discolor it first IIRC. Controlling the application is the key. Heat releases CA too at about 135 degrees F. Consider that when using it and that may explain why you keep having to reapply. If you use a toothpick, first make the connection again with CA, then put some 2 part epoxy to reenforce it with the toothpick. Normal 2 part epoxy releases around 158 F or higher.

Silicon that makes up the logic board, or is that a plastic?

I will try the alcohol approach, I have some of that laying around for cleaning electronics.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.