Turtle Wax has a product called Chip Stick that worked for covering up thin scratches for a nice easy solution.
Turtle Wax has a product called Chip Stick that worked for covering up thin scratches for a nice easy solution.
I'm an utter noob at detailing, because it's just not that important to me, but I noticed a couple things in your post that bother me. (BTW, it's VERY nice of you to go through the trouble, don't get me wrong!) One point was the speed of the rotary. I just bought a $100.00 Hitachi Rotary Polisher, which runs up to 3,400RPM, of which I use half that at most.
You didn't mention anything about compounding or specific compounds, which is the main reason I bought it. I'm curious what sealers and glazes you recommend as well.
I've found Stoner's Invisible Glass pump spray at Walmart for about $3.50, and I like it a lot! I like even more Stoner's Trim Shine. I can do all the black trim and engine in about 5 minutes, and it lasts a LONG time. Forgot to mention Wizard's Quick Detailer... awesome! :thumbsup:
Well, thanks for the rest of the info. Always like hearing quicker ways to get that job done.
You didn't mention anything about compounding or specific compounds, which is the main reason I bought it. I'm curious what sealers and glazes you recommend as well.
I've found Stoner's Invisible Glass pump spray at Walmart for about $3.50, and I like it a lot! I like even more Stoner's Trim Shine. I can do all the black trim and engine in about 5 minutes, and it lasts a LONG time. Forgot to mention Wizard's Quick Detailer... awesome! :thumbsup:
Well, thanks for the rest of the info. Always like hearing quicker ways to get that job done.
Nice writeup OP! I just recently got into detailing. Here are some of my recommendations
For drying towels:
Meguiars water magnet - it is a waffle weave (Pepboys)
Viking drying towel - plush towel (Autozone)
Vroom Dyring towel - nice as well (Target)
For Tires and Wheels:
Eagle one (wheel and tire cleaner) - Very good cleaner however I would not recommend it for weekly use. Also you can use soap and various brushes to clean wheels and tires.
Car Shampoo:
Meguiars Gold Class - very good and can be bought at Target for 10.99 a gallon
Meguiars NXT - very good as well can be boought at many local auto places
Waxes:
Duragloss Aqua Wax is great if you can find it locally - it's a spray on wax.
Dressing:
Mothers FX Tire Shine - Very good product and is water based
The list can go on but these are probably the basics for a good car wash. Most of these items can be picked up from local auto places. Once you start getting into other exotic stuff the list can grow very big.
For drying towels:
Meguiars water magnet - it is a waffle weave (Pepboys)
Viking drying towel - plush towel (Autozone)
Vroom Dyring towel - nice as well (Target)
For Tires and Wheels:
Eagle one (wheel and tire cleaner) - Very good cleaner however I would not recommend it for weekly use. Also you can use soap and various brushes to clean wheels and tires.
Car Shampoo:
Meguiars Gold Class - very good and can be bought at Target for 10.99 a gallon
Meguiars NXT - very good as well can be boought at many local auto places
Waxes:
Duragloss Aqua Wax is great if you can find it locally - it's a spray on wax.
Dressing:
Mothers FX Tire Shine - Very good product and is water based
The list can go on but these are probably the basics for a good car wash. Most of these items can be picked up from local auto places. Once you start getting into other exotic stuff the list can grow very big.
Yes, you're right, they can be removed with a little rubbing compound, but...why put the scratches into your clearcoat if you don't have to?
Unfortunately only someone trained in winshield repair can do that (I think). They have a special expanding sealent that they apply to knicks and such, I have never tried it, only seen it done, and they have to make sure bubbles do not get in it, etc. Sorry.
:thumbsup: Those are defintely solid products. The buffer you got is great, if you have the money they are fine to buy, I just don't consider them necessary.
I thought that was the point of the topic.
Oh, and that was one issue I forgot to mention. I just apply the sealer by hand. The whole car is done inside of 20 minutes or so. Not sure a rotory could get it done any quicker, and I know it would waste more product.
I was wondering how much compound I should expect to use on a decent sized vehicle. Seems I can only work about a 4 square foot area at one time, and go through quite a bit of the compound in the process. Like about 4 oz. for one entire car. Too much? Glazing seems to go very easily. I can cover a larger area, and not use nearly as much of it.
Oh, and that was one issue I forgot to mention. I just apply the sealer by hand. The whole car is done inside of 20 minutes or so. Not sure a rotory could get it done any quicker, and I know it would waste more product.
I was wondering how much compound I should expect to use on a decent sized vehicle. Seems I can only work about a 4 square foot area at one time, and go through quite a bit of the compound in the process. Like about 4 oz. for one entire car. Too much? Glazing seems to go very easily. I can cover a larger area, and not use nearly as much of it.
middlehead
Diamond Member
- Jul 11, 2004
- 4,573
- 2
- 81
Fenixgoon
Lifer
- Jun 30, 2003
- 32,048
- 10,822
- 136
for those of you with scuffed/damaged wheels, here's a great guide from audiworld to wheel repair. i did it on 17'' S4 wheels and it worked beautifully.
AudiWorld wheel repair guide
materials total might run ya $30 at most, but they're good for multiple fixes, plus it's way cheaper than going to a shop.
note that this technique DOES NOT WORK for ridiculously major wheel damage
AudiWorld wheel repair guide
materials total might run ya $30 at most, but they're good for multiple fixes, plus it's way cheaper than going to a shop.
note that this technique DOES NOT WORK for ridiculously major wheel damage
WURTH wheel paint, eh? I might as well do all our wheels complete with that stuff. Corrosion under the wheel weights is disgusting. Alloy wheels are more trouble than they're "worth".
MrChad
Lifer
- Aug 22, 2001
- 13,507
- 3
- 81
Really great guide, thanks for putting this together. I have two questions:
1. I have a number of small rock chips on the hood and front bumper of my '02 Acura RSX-S. I have touch up paint from the manufacturer, and I've used touch up paint before, but I'd like to know how long to wait after I apply the touch up paint before I can wax the car. I'd also like to know if you have any tips for applying and smoothing out touch up paint so that the "touch up" is invisible.
2. My interior is a mix of plastic, leather and a sort of rubber mesh material that runs along the dash. The plastic and leather are easy to clean, but the rubber is difficult, as it traps dust and dirt easily and isn't smooth to allow a cloth to run over it. The photo here gives you an idea of this material (look at the handle of the door). Any tips on cleaning this effectively?
1. I have a number of small rock chips on the hood and front bumper of my '02 Acura RSX-S. I have touch up paint from the manufacturer, and I've used touch up paint before, but I'd like to know how long to wait after I apply the touch up paint before I can wax the car. I'd also like to know if you have any tips for applying and smoothing out touch up paint so that the "touch up" is invisible.
2. My interior is a mix of plastic, leather and a sort of rubber mesh material that runs along the dash. The plastic and leather are easy to clean, but the rubber is difficult, as it traps dust and dirt easily and isn't smooth to allow a cloth to run over it. The photo here gives you an idea of this material (look at the handle of the door). Any tips on cleaning this effectively?
Originally posted by: Pikachu
I thought that was the point of the topic.
Oh, and that was one issue I forgot to mention. I just apply the sealer by hand. The whole car is done inside of 20 minutes or so. Not sure a rotory could get it done any quicker, and I know it would waste more product.
I was wondering how much compound I should expect to use on a decent sized vehicle. Seems I can only work about a 4 square foot area at one time, and go through quite a bit of the compound in the process. Like about 4 oz. for one entire car. Too much? Glazing seems to go very easily. I can cover a larger area, and not use nearly as much of it.
4oz is about right, if you are doing it by hand, and 6oz for a rotary tool.
I would use a brush dipped in water for the door rubber, and then sponge any type of shining or protectent agent you want.
For the hood chips, I have always used a paint grinder pad on touch up paint. I apply for than necessary so it is puffed out a bit, then I grind it down ever so slighty until it matches.
It is just a car dude, and your post was way tooooooooooooo long about how to clean something that is not nearly as important as many assume it to be. And when there ain't no gas, or it is going to be too damn expensive for all but what Bush calls the "haves and have mores" no one will give a damn about how shiny your gas less ride is.
"Just a car" is the 2nd largest purchase most people ever make, and usually put many people severely in debt. If they can make their several year old, paid for, rides tolerable for a few more years, that's a big plus. If you can find ways to get the job done in a fraction of the time, so much the better.
I always clean my car before taking a trip. That's about twice per year. I also apply a sealer for protection twice per year. I wouldn't consider that overdoing it.
I always clean my car before taking a trip. That's about twice per year. I also apply a sealer for protection twice per year. I wouldn't consider that overdoing it.
Exactly. And, I love the look of stepping back after buffing off the wax and the way it first looks. Great feeling.
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