I successfully unlocked my XP1800+ this morning using superglue, defroster liquid, scotch tape, a razor blade and a microscope. The microscope was key to this, and I don't think I would have been successful without it. The holes, traces, etc.. are just so small! Anyway, got it all done, put it in my Dragon Plus and booted up at 13 x 133. The Dragon Plus doesn't have 12.5 as an option. Comes up as a XP2000+ at 1.67ghz at default voltage. Has been running perfect all day. My only question is, why isn't it running at 1.72ghz, since it is at 13 x 133? SciSoft Sandra shows it running with a 12.5 multiplier.
Successful XP1800+ Unlocking!
- Thread starter hpfanatic
- Start date
Because to get it to a multiplier over 12.5...you have to cut the upper L10 and close the lower L10 bridge.
Mark
Mark
hpfanatic, congrats! 
On friday I did the exact same thing you did with my XP1900. I used a coworker's magnifying headgear thing...It really helped out to make sure the bridges were complete/smooth.
I too was curious about the 12.5 multiplier issue on my Epox 8KHA+ board. At 13x it really is 12.5x...Guess I didn't read up on that part of unlocking. <shrug> The lower multipliers are more important to me anyway...
Imdmn04,
As long as you're careful with the masking using tape the unlocking part was super easy. You just have to take it slow and have reasonably steady hands. hehe but I was definitely a little nervous the first time I tried to boot.
Gaidin
On friday I did the exact same thing you did with my XP1900. I used a coworker's magnifying headgear thing...It really helped out to make sure the bridges were complete/smooth.
I too was curious about the 12.5 multiplier issue on my Epox 8KHA+ board. At 13x it really is 12.5x...Guess I didn't read up on that part of unlocking. <shrug> The lower multipliers are more important to me anyway...
Imdmn04,
As long as you're careful with the masking using tape the unlocking part was super easy. You just have to take it slow and have reasonably steady hands. hehe but I was definitely a little nervous the first time I tried to boot.
Gaidin
DaSinical1 - I have an unlocked 1800+. If cut the upper L10 and close the lower L10 does that give you only the multipliers over 12.5 (i.e. nothing below 12.5 available) or does it just enable the higher multipliers (i.e. full range becomes available)?
I have the the 1800+ at 12* for 1.60 GHz. I'd like to try higher OCs later - so this would really be useful.
This site looks useful for bridge manipulation. It suggests that the L3 and L4 bridges should also change - what do these do?
gaidin123 - I also have the 8KHA+. If you choose 13* does it just default back to 12.5* (re: the above conversation)? Maybe 13* gives 12.5* before the L10 mod and that 13* truly gives 13* after the L10 mod. Whaddya reckon?
I have the the 1800+ at 12* for 1.60 GHz. I'd like to try higher OCs later - so this would really be useful.
This site looks useful for bridge manipulation. It suggests that the L3 and L4 bridges should also change - what do these do?
gaidin123 - I also have the 8KHA+. If you choose 13* does it just default back to 12.5* (re: the above conversation)? Maybe 13* gives 12.5* before the L10 mod and that 13* truly gives 13* after the L10 mod. Whaddya reckon?
Hey, would a conductive pen work if I filled the gaps with super glue and I wrote over it with the pen?
i would also like to know if the conductive pen will work. thats what i used to unlock my tbird 1ghz.
FatMan42,
Yes when I choose the 13x multiplier on my 8kha+ it defaults to 12.5x (ie XP2000). I haven't touched the L10 bridge yet simply because I mainly unlocked to get lower multipliers and be able to bump up the FSB. The higher multipliers would be nice to have though in case I ever wanted to overclock but still keep everything in spec...
I'm not sure whether doing the L10 bridge thing will remove some of the lower multipliers but I'd imagine that it would (ie why do you need to cut/bridge the L10 bridges just for some multipliers).
Any conductive material should work for bridging the gaps on the L1 bridges. The most common thing that people have used is the defogger repair kit but a circuit trace pen should work great as long as the lines are drawn very carefully. As long as the valleys are filled with a non conductive material and then bridged with a conductive one, you should be able to use almost anything you want (super tiny wires, conductive pen, metal strips, etc.).
Gaidin
Yes when I choose the 13x multiplier on my 8kha+ it defaults to 12.5x (ie XP2000). I haven't touched the L10 bridge yet simply because I mainly unlocked to get lower multipliers and be able to bump up the FSB. The higher multipliers would be nice to have though in case I ever wanted to overclock but still keep everything in spec...
I'm not sure whether doing the L10 bridge thing will remove some of the lower multipliers but I'd imagine that it would (ie why do you need to cut/bridge the L10 bridges just for some multipliers).
Any conductive material should work for bridging the gaps on the L1 bridges. The most common thing that people have used is the defogger repair kit but a circuit trace pen should work great as long as the lines are drawn very carefully. As long as the valleys are filled with a non conductive material and then bridged with a conductive one, you should be able to use almost anything you want (super tiny wires, conductive pen, metal strips, etc.).
Gaidin
I unlocked my Athlon XP 1600 using just a pencil and going around the gaps. With the green Athlon XP's it is actually really easy. I mock you and your weird things you do to your cpu! BTW, my 20/15 vision probably helped with that.
Super glue works great for this. I wouldn't recomend a pencil going around traces though. Thats getting a little long to conduct the necessary current. I wouldn't think that would last to long.
Just use scotch tape, super glue, conductive material(defroster paint, conductive pen, whatevah), and a sharp thin bladed knife.
Just use scotch tape, super glue, conductive material(defroster paint, conductive pen, whatevah), and a sharp thin bladed knife.
FatMan42,
Cutting the upper L10 bridge and connecting the lower L10 bridge enables all of the higher multipliers. If you notice on ocinside's bridge guide...all the higer multipliers have the lower L10 bridge connected. Now, from all that i've read on the internet about the subject, you might have to manually lock the multiplier through the bridges because some of the bios don't recognize the higher multiplier codes. If your asking me if you cut then bridge the lower L10 bridge, would you be able to access the higher multipliers through the bios...I wouldn't know because I have a K7S5a and my only option was to hardlock the multiplier in the first place. I did have mine at 12.5 X138 but I upped it to 13X133...to see if I can go higher on the fsb. It worked but I went back to 12.5X138 to get 1725MHz and utilize the faster FSB since I couldn't go any higher then 133FSB at 13X.
Cutting the upper L10 bridge and connecting the lower L10 bridge enables all of the higher multipliers. If you notice on ocinside's bridge guide...all the higer multipliers have the lower L10 bridge connected. Now, from all that i've read on the internet about the subject, you might have to manually lock the multiplier through the bridges because some of the bios don't recognize the higher multiplier codes. If your asking me if you cut then bridge the lower L10 bridge, would you be able to access the higher multipliers through the bios...I wouldn't know because I have a K7S5a and my only option was to hardlock the multiplier in the first place. I did have mine at 12.5 X138 but I upped it to 13X133...to see if I can go higher on the fsb. It worked but I went back to 12.5X138 to get 1725MHz and utilize the faster FSB since I couldn't go any higher then 133FSB at 13X.
http://www.beachlink.com/candjac/index.htm link to Final Decoding Palomino article, (and others), for a complete "explanation" of all the bridges involved in oc'g...plus relevant circuit diagrams and which bridges control the various incremental .5X, 1X, 2X, 4X, 8X Multiplier bit values/Adders which go into enabling the desired Multiplier.
John C.
John C.
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