Stuck head bolt - at wits end.

[Tristicus]

So the gaskets blew on my 96' Mustang 3.8, and I've set in to replace them. I've finally gotten everything off on the right side besides the actual head...because of one stuck head bolt. It is the third one back on the bottom (I believe), and it is being a major PITA. It broke my 15mm 1/2" socket, and is now rounding off almost completely (I'd say 75% or more). I went to Napa tonight and got some sockets with a 6-star pattern inside that are supposed to grip them and not let go....and those broke as well (returned within 30 mins). Pathetic...I'm absolutely tired of it. I've sprayed it down with PB blaster multiple times and let it sit.

The local garage we use (Chevrolet dealership) and trust wants just under $900 to get the job done + whatever it costs me to tow it there.

Can I do anything? I'd rather not play with fire in my engine bay.

 

[Smoove910]

IF they are breaking, maybe you can try a 15mm impact socket? (The type they use on air drivers?) Just a thought...

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...aps&field-keywords=15mm+impact+socket&x=0&y=0

 

[sjwaste]

If you have a bolt stuck with that much torque, chances are the head's going to be warped.

If you're resigned to replacing the head anyway, you could try putting the opposite bolt on the same head back on, lightly torquing it, and seeing if the stuck bolt will come out any easier. That's the best I can think of, but I've never actually tried this. Maybe the even force on the other side will help.

EDIT: I'm used to the head on an I6. You might be fine on something half the length. I suppose I'm no help.

 

[C1]

I would do as sjwaste suggests plus add the suggestion to take a brass drift and knock the crap out of the head bolt straight down then try to remove it.

If that doesnt work, then you may have to grind off the bolt head.

 

[5150MyU]

When you put the socket on it was not quite aligned or not strong enough or you not knowing. You're gonna have to pay the price.

 

[AMCRambler]

Fire is pretty much your only option at this point before you cut the head off the bolt with a grinder. Get a small mapp gas torch at home depot and heat that fucker till its red hot. If you go to Home Depot they have a mapp gas/oxygen brazing torch that will get white hot and heat it up to glowing in a couple minutes.

Torch
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1&ddkey=Search

Do that and then let it cool off for a couple hours. Then pound on one of those impact grade bolt removers and have it with as long an extension handle on the bolt remover as you can.

Bolt Removers
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...1&blockType=G1

If that fails you need to cut the head off the bolt so you can pull your cylinder head and then go at the remaining bolt shaft in the block with these:

Easy Outs
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...1&blockType=G1

 

[the DRIZZLE]

When you broke the other sockets were you applying a constant force or using impact? I find hitting the end of the ratchet with a rubber mallet or sledge hammer can get things unstuck. You might also want to try an impact gun, they have cheap crappy electric ones at most auto parts stores.

 

[Tristicus]

Rambler- thanks, I'll check out and see if my grandfather has a torch I guess. If not I'll go check Lowes since our HD closed.

When you broke the other sockets were you applying a constant force or using impact? I find hitting the end of the ratchet with a rubber mallet or sledge hammer can get things unstuck. You might also want to try an impact gun, they have cheap crappy electric ones at most auto parts stores.

By hand (no impact) - used a large torque wrench as a breaker bar.

 

[5150MyU]

V6-Can you even pull the head off after you have (If even possible) cut the bolt head?

 

[Bartman39]

Rambler- thanks, I'll check out and see if my grandfather has a torch I guess. If not I'll go check Lowes since our HD closed.

By hand (no impact) - used a large torque wrench as a breaker bar.

Both problems are here... Do not use that crap from either Lowes or the orange place... Find a real tool dealer like Snapon or...? (Mac, Matco, Cornwell) and get a real socket and while your at it get a real breaker bar not something that flex`s like a torque wrench, you losing leverage when it flex`s...

It sounds like your just about in trouble so you might follow AMCRamblers advice and use heat... If you can get an oxy/actl torch and heat the head of the bolt a bit beyond cherry red and let it cool for a bit this will release the torque on the bolt head... I do this all the time when working on LaBounty Shears and changing rather large cutting edges that are held in place with bolts in the 700-800ftlb range with 1 7/16ths heads on them... After heating them I take them loose with very little effort, most with a 1/2 ratchet and reducer...:thumbsup:

 

[the DRIZZLE]

Rambler- thanks, I'll check out and see if my grandfather has a torch I guess. If not I'll go check Lowes since our HD closed.



By hand (no impact) - used a large torque wrench as a breaker bar.

I'd try using some impact before I'd use the heat. Also you shouldn't use a torque wrench for disassembly, it can mess up the calibration.

 

[C1]

It is true what Bartman39 says. You are at the point of trouble and DO NOT EVEN THINK ABOUT USING ANY JUNK TOOLS (nothing less than highest quality precision forged steel brand name such as SNAP ON; probably why you're in this predicament to begin with).

 

[mztykal]

Seriously if your bolt was torqued that much it won't matter what brand tool you use. Plus new snapon stuff isn't that great.

 

[Squisher]

Yeah, you don't want any "give" in the wrench you're using when you're trying to break something free. Breaker bars and sliding T-bars work best.

Like others have said heating and cooling and also shocking with a hammer will help.

This is kinda a stupid question because I don't really know the particulars of this head, but would it be possible to spin the entire head on that bolt? Even a couple of degrees of movement will do the trick.

 

[Fenixgoon]

i dont know if this would be possible, but you could try welding a stud or something to the bolt and then using that to remove the bolt.

wouldn't want to ignite any fuel lines though

 

[Bartman39]

Seriously if your bolt was torqued that much it won't matter what brand tool you use. Plus new snapon stuff isn't that great.

Dont quite think you know what your talking about...? The reason I say this is pretty simple you did`nt even offer a solution so therefore you dont know about the problem or what tools to use to fix it...

 

[dud]

OP, my son and his buddy had a similar problem removing the bolts from a flywheel when replacing a clutch. Consider cutting the head of the bolt off with a dremel (diamond wheel) and then replace it.

 

[HarryLui]

Join AAA for their membership so you can get their tow for free. Tow it to the shop of your choice and have them take out the bolt. Tow it back to your place.

Profit.

Do not try anything else on the bolt, you'll only make it worst, with the tools you have.

 

[Tristicus]

Both problems are here... Do not use that crap from either Lowes or the orange place... Find a real tool dealer like Snapon or...? (Mac, Matco, Cornwell) and get a real socket and while your at it get a real breaker bar not something that flex`s like a torque wrench, you losing leverage when it flex`s...

It sounds like your just about in trouble so you might follow AMCRamblers advice and use heat... If you can get an oxy/actl torch and heat the head of the bolt a bit beyond cherry red and let it cool for a bit this will release the torque on the bolt head... I do this all the time when working on LaBounty Shears and changing rather large cutting edges that are held in place with bolts in the 700-800ftlb range with 1 7/16ths heads on them... After heating them I take them loose with very little effort, most with a 1/2 ratchet and reducer...:thumbsup:

Only thing is I'm scared I'll ignite something else, like a fuel line. I'd be willing to spend $100 or so on tools that I'll be able to keep for future projects, but this is just a large PITA.
Plus, if I cut it off, I'm not sure I'd even be able to pry the block off without screwing up the threads?

Join AAA for their membership so you can get their tow for free. Tow it to the shop of your choice and have them take out the bolt. Tow it back to your place.

Profit.

Do not try anything else on the bolt, you'll only make it worst, with the tools you have.

Actually, $89 isn't bad for a year...

 

[yottabit]

I put in another vote for the impact socket.

When I'm in situations like this I usually try to pound a slightly smaller socket or wrench onto the bolt. Usually the closest equivalent standard socket (next size down)

I'm a little confused as to whether the head is stripped or if it's just the sockets that keep breaking. The black impact sockets are supposed to be ~50% stronger

 

[mooseracing]

Plus, if I cut it off, I'm not sure I'd even be able to pry the block off without screwing up the threads?

Impact first, I don't know how you would cut the head off if the bolt is tight. There wouldn't be a shaft exposed. I would drill the head off or grind it down. Pull the head off, then weld or use a good set of vise grips to loosen.

What block are you prying off and worrying about the threads? The threads are in the engine block. I'm guessing, but I bet the head is aluminum and it has corroded well to the bolt.

 

[Tristicus]

After thinking about it a while longer, I think I'm just going to end up taking it to the dealership. I'll probably come out just about even regardless, the only thing I'll need to figure out is the towing, which I'll probably just call AAA as suggested earlier.

Thanks for the replies and suggestions.

 

[the DRIZZLE]

Dude this is a serious man code violation. Taking your car to a dealer halfway through a job is even worse than pulling over and asking for directions.

 

[Doppel]

After thinking about it a while longer, I think I'm just going to end up taking it to the dealership. I'll probably come out just about even regardless, the only thing I'll need to figure out is the towing, which I'll probably just call AAA as suggested earlier.

Thanks for the replies and suggestions.

It sucks to feel like you gave up--been there, done that. But sometimes the frustration with seized bolts and parts is just unbelievably worth not dicking around with anymore. It's possible if you kept at this you'd simply break the head. I did that a few months ago working on brakes. An old bolt was stuck and then...snap, its head came off. Then I had to drill it out. Except I had no drill bit that could drill through the bolt, became a bit of a cluster.

 

[Tristicus]

Yeah I'm not too happy about it...I also don't want to find out the heads are warped or something, though they are iron so...

I'm wondering how my taking apart half of it already will affect the price - either in a bad or a good way...I've got everything labeled except the misc. bolts that are obvious where they fit.