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Strongest fan a Sunbeam Rheobus can power

L

LOUISSSSS

Diamond Member
will a sunbeam rheobus be able to power on each channel a Delta FFB1212VHE http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/de12ff.html
it comes with a 3pin and 4 pin connector attached directly to the motor.

Specs from Sidewinder Computers
120x120x38mm, 151.85 CFM @ 3200 RPM, 53.0 dBA, 12.00 watts, 1.00 amps, 12v DC, 3+4 pin Molex connectors.

i bolded the "1.00 amps" because on the fan label, its labeled 1.5a.

i've already tried connecting this fan with the 3pin to my motherboard, doesn't power up.
tried connecting this fan to power supply with a Zalman Fanmate 2, doesn't power up.
only luck with powering it on is via the 4pin and power supply.

 
High cfm / wattage fans can / will click, rumble and grumble when running at 7V or less.
I have a Delta 120x38, EFB Triple blade rate at 141cfm that hates being undervolted.
The medium speed EFB fans will start / run @ 3.5V in total silence.
Good luck.!
 
I have a pair of 100cfm 120mm fans and a pair of 92mm fans, nothing as crazy as the 150cfm one you have.
 
Sunbeam Rheobus. I bought three when Xxide had them at $7.25 each 😛
Then I modded them to Lian Li bay covers with low wattage 3mm LEDs that go green to red.
Then black knobs with red button inserts were installed...Yawza!
LEDs, plastic mounting inserts and knobs at http://www.allelectronics.com/

The best undervolting fan of 120x38 dimension I've ever used is the Sanyo Denki 109R1212H1011.
103cfm @ 39dBA and it will start / run in almost total silence at 5V, driving about 48cfm.
http://www.petrastechshop.com/ might have some. Fullmetal Chocobo and Zepper love these fans. :thumbsup:
They are for real three wire with the sensor feed.

http://www.bgmicro.com/ might have some NMB Smart Fans at < $5. Solder jump the thermistor and they are good for 118cfm, iirc. They are 120x25, two wire. I bought three with another order just to have.
They would make killer exhaust fans with the thermistor in play.
My experience with thermistor / thermally controlled fans is that they generally undervolt very well.
It might take 8V to get'em goin' but then the voltage can be reduced to silly levels.

I have a quiet high cfm fan here for the next build. Sanyo Denki 172x51, 148cfm @ 36dBA.
It will protest if run at less than 7V, as per the knowledgable vendor. But at 7V it should drive 85+cfm. Good enough for a quiet filtered intake.
Filters kill a little cfm and alot of dBA, or so it's been my experience...YMMV.

Two high cfm 92x38s will deliver more cfm with lower dBA than a single 120x38...Betcha!
Figure it out. I have for real. Fitting paired 92s is very tight in the front of most old style Lian Li cases.
I bond them together with super glue and install as one fan. Works. A low value resistor on one keeps them from harmonizing 😀

You got it all!
 
Originally posted by: LOUISSSSS
bump, what fans are you guys using on your rheobus???
Click to expand...

I have used the Sanyo Denki 120x38mm fans Galvanized Yankee mentioned, as well as Delta Triple Blade 92mm high speed, 120x38 & 120x25 DTB low speed, Sunon 92x25mm, Sanyo Denki 92x38 & 92x25mm fans, UV LED 92mm fans, CoolerMaster 120mm LED fans, and I think that's about it.
 
The rheobus is rated at 20W per channel as mentioned above so 1A (12W) should be a cakewalk. I have run one of the Sanyo Denki and one of the NMB smart fans (bypassed) as G-Y mentioned. The Sanyo is .52A max and the NMB is around 3/4A max I believe.

.bh.
 
Most people aren't going to be running anything like a Delta VHE in their PCs. It seems to me to be a total waste of time to even be discussing it.

.bh.
 
Originally posted by: LOUISSSSS
galvanized, so will u think my delta fans listed in my OP will run with the rheobus?
Click to expand...

Yes, but I do not think you will be pleased with the end result and that fan will not be happy < 8V. I try to keep all fans under 35dBA @ 12V. That 53dBA in your OP is kinda crazy.
Zepper is correct in his statement above this post.

 
Originally posted by: LOUISSSSS
bump, what fans are you guys using on your rheobus???
Click to expand...

I'm using two of these with my Sunbeam fanbus. They were quiet for the amount of air they move, but after a year, they're starting to make an odd rattling noise that oil won't cure. I'm going to replace them with these Enermax magnetic bearing fans. I'm just not quite sure when I'm going to do that. Removing the front fan on my case (Antec SLK3700AMB) involves removing the fully-loaded hard drive cage, which may necessitate the removal of various other components and wires that may be in the way. And I'm lazy about fixing non-life-threatening problems like this. 😛
My temporary cure for the noise comes courtesy of the Sunbeam fanbus - turn down the speed, and the rattling stops.
 
Originally posted by: Jeff7
Originally posted by: LOUISSSSS
bump, what fans are you guys using on your rheobus???
Click to expand...

I'm using two of these with my Sunbeam fanbus. They were quiet for the amount of air they move, but after a year, they're starting to make an odd rattling noise that oil won't cure. I'm going to replace them with these Enermax magnetic bearing fans. I'm just not quite sure when I'm going to do that. Removing the front fan on my case (Antec SLK3700AMB) involves removing the fully-loaded hard drive cage, which may necessitate the removal of various other components and wires that may be in the way. And I'm lazy about fixing non-life-threatening problems like this. 😛
My temporary cure for the noise comes courtesy of the Sunbeam fanbus - turn down the speed, and the rattling stops.
Click to expand...

After a drop to a hard surface a ball bearinged fan's life can be shortened radically.
The balls get dinged and don't roll true.
The magnetic bearinged fan you link *MAY* not operate properly when under-volted.
Look at the Arctic Cooling fans at provantage.com 😉
 
so yea i got my rheobus today, and plugged in my fans right away...
fans being powered:
2 x delta FFB1212VHE 3200rpm fans (found in OP)
1 x Aerocool Xtreme Turbine 120x25mm 1800rpm fan
1 x vf900

some minor quirks:
1. the connectors that connects the input power and fan output are very flimsy and can be bent (i've arleady bent 1 x fan connector and the power input adapter), but it still seems to be working
2. the led's are freaking bright
3. fans dont work very well under 7v (once the LED turns red)
 
2. The LEDs are also overvolted by my guess. On my fanbus, I had one of the channels disconnected, so I never turned it on. After several months of use, I turned it on to test this - it was much brighter than those that were on nearly continuously. LEDs should not dim that rapidly.

Options:
- Electrical tape over the LEDs
- Solder a resistor inline with the LEDs - look around online for the exact value of the resistor to use
- Disconnect them completely
- Buy replacements somewhere online. Just make sure they have the same thing (common anode or common cathode, whichever the fanbus uses) or else they won't light properly, if at all.
 
overclockers.com has a tutorial on soldering resistors into the hot leg of the LEDs to dim them down.
It's in the misc, section of thier articals link.
 
much much simpler option is to simply push them into the casing and bend them so that you know what color it is but that you can't see them.
 
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