Steel winter rims question

[DVad3r]

Hey guys,

I'm shopping around for a set of 4 steel winter rims. I went into the shop the other day to get a quote and the guy asked me if I want center mounted or hub mounted rims or something like that. I forgot the exact terms he used, but he said one is a direct fit and better than the other.

I thought all steel rims were the same?

That being said, anyone know the cheapest place to buy a set of steel rims? 205/60/16

 

[herm0016]

i found that posting a wanted ad to craigs list got me the best deal on my winter wheels. older 17 in aluminum escalade wheels for $200.

 

[JCH13]

You'd want "hub-centric" rings for your wheels or a "hub-centric fit".

I steer way clear of steel wheels in salted areas, they just do not last long enough to justify the low cost. Especially when I found a set of alloy wheels for $100 to fit my car.

 

[desy]

Call local salvage and get OEMs for your car

 

[phucheneh]

Generic aftermarket wheels that fit multiple makes with the same bolt pattern have giant holes in the middle so they can fit over the raised center portion of multiple sizes of hub. This is bad, but easily corrected with some hucentric rings, as already stated. If you use metal ones, coat them in grease or anti-sieze so they don't get jammed in place by corrosion.

Or you can buy hubcentric wheels, which are either OEM or aftermarket wheels intended for an OEM fit. The latter seems to be more common with more expensive luxury/performance cars. E.g you can find a lot of wheels made specifically for a BMW, but they're less abundant for a Corolla or Civic.

 

[mvbighead]

Call local salvage and get OEMs for your car

This or craigslist. Or just just steal them:

http://www.nbcdfw.com/news/local/Thieves-Steal-140-Wheels-Off-35-Cars-126085683.html

And the theft thing is a joke, BTW.

 

[phucheneh]

I had to check and make sure 35 x 4 equaled 140...I distrust the news...and am bad at math...

At least they brought some bricks...to put under the rotors. It would be sweet if they did that and a slip-on rotor popped off and hit them in the face.

I've seen cars around here dropped onto the ground. I dunno if they carry around a low-profile racing jack with them or what...

 

[DVad3r]

You'd want "hub-centric" rings for your wheels or a "hub-centric fit".

I steer way clear of steel wheels in salted areas, they just do not last long enough to justify the low cost. Especially when I found a set of alloy wheels for $100 to fit my car.

My car has 207 k km on it, I don't know how much longer it will last but I'm sure I can squeeze 400 k easy. You're the first person I've heard to say not to get steel rims in salted areas. We have alot of salt here. How long do they last?

And yes hub centric is the term I was looking for, thanks.

 

[exar333]

Discount tire. Got mine for less than $40/each. Almost the same size too, just a tad wider.

 

[phucheneh]

Don't you want the same, if not narrower, wheels? I believe the idea is that a smaller surface area with more weight on it makes it easier to cut through the snow and less likely for you to slide...I live in the south, though; I have no practical experience with snow lasting more than a few days.

Also, when it snows, I generally don't drive. Unless it's bad enough to keep everyone else off the roads...then I'm okay. (God, they're terrible around here. I'm fine with the snow- it's just the abandoned cars and people sliding sideways down the wrong side of the road that gives me issues.)

 

[WilliamM2]

My car has 207 k km on it, I don't know how much longer it will last but I'm sure I can squeeze 400 k easy. You're the first person I've heard to say not to get steel rims in salted areas. We have alot of salt here. How long do they last?

And yes hub centric is the term I was looking for, thanks.

Most cars come with steel wheels from the factory. Sure they get rusty, but I have never seen a wheel fail from it. And they use plenty of salt here in Michigan too.

 

[Howard]

Most cars come with steel wheels from the factory. Sure they get rusty, but I have never seen a wheel fail from it. And they use plenty of salt here in Michigan too.

Just gotta make sure you anti-seize between the wheel and the hub. Proper cleaning and whatnot is necessary, of course.

 

[JCH13]

Most cars come with steel wheels from the factory. Sure they get rusty, but I have never seen a wheel fail from it. And they use plenty of salt here in Michigan too.

They won't fail structurally, wheels are incredibly overbuilt. They can leak air though.

Anti-seize is also very important with alloy wheels too, FWIW.

 

[SparkyJJO]

They won't fail structurally, wheels are incredibly overbuilt. They can leak air though.

Anti-seize is also very important with alloy wheels too, FWIW.

Never used anti seize on either my steel wheels on my old car or my alloys on my current. Never had a stuck wheel either. You should be pulling the wheels somewhere between 5-10k for tire rotations. I suppose they'd have a chance to seize up in that span if you didn't drive much. For me that's barely 3 months at 5k miles

 

[phucheneh]

Aluminum wheels get stuck more than steel, I've found. It's because the edge around the hub center is sharp(er), making it a closer fit. Whereas the steel centers have a rounded edge which I assume was formed by a press. Also you have the dissimilar metals thing.

Some makes are worse than others. Seems like cars with wheel bolts tend to have closer tolerances, and the wheels get stuck easier.

Pro-tip: kick the shit out of it and it'll come off. If not, deadblow hammer (won't damage wheel) from the back.

 

[Eos]

I can't find a steel 15X6 5-100/115 for my wife's 2003 Corolla LE for less than $56 each. Auto dismantler? No. Craigslist? No. FML

 

[phucheneh]

...junkyard?

No, not the same as 'auto dismantler.' The latter is where you go to get shitty used transmissions and engines for $1500 a pop. The former is where you pull it yourself and pay relative pocket change.

Although $56 is not exactly expensive. $224 for a set of factory wheels? Kind of cheap...

 

[JCH13]

Never used anti seize on either my steel wheels on my old car or my alloys on my current. Never had a stuck wheel either. You should be pulling the wheels somewhere between 5-10k for tire rotations. I suppose they'd have a chance to seize up in that span if you didn't drive much. For me that's barely 3 months at 5k miles

I rotate tires when I do my summer-winter tire change. I only have 39k miles on my 2009 MS3. I've never had a wheel really stick badly, I've always been able to kick them off. However, with anti-seize on the wheel-hub interface, I just lightly tap the wheel and it pops right off.

 

[Raizinman]

If you have a new'ish car that has TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System) when you add new wheels, your TPMS light will come on. To avoid this, you will need to purchase some new sensors for your new wheels. They can run anywhere between $50 and $100 each and will then need to be brought to the dealer to be calibrated to your vehicle.

 

[desy]

I ignore the TPMS as I have a 10$ gauge in the glove box
Another nanny device I didn't ask for

 

[rsutoratosu]

what car is that for, I seem to have a set of steels in that size.. mine is off an accord that I no longer own but you are too far to ship

 

[iamwiz82]

Aluminum wheels get stuck more than steel, I've found. It's because the edge around the hub center is sharp(er), making it a closer fit. Whereas the steel centers have a rounded edge which I assume was formed by a press. Also you have the dissimilar metals thing.

Some makes are worse than others. Seems like cars with wheel bolts tend to have closer tolerances, and the wheels get stuck easier.

Pro-tip: kick the shit out of it and it'll come off. If not, deadblow hammer (won't damage wheel) from the back.

I usuall tighten the lugs down only half way then drop the car off the jack, that'll pop the wheel free and the lugs will catch it. One time I also had to move the car forward and back, but other than that it's been 100% successful for me.

 

[DVad3r]

what car is that for, I seem to have a set of steels in that size.. mine is off an accord that I no longer own but you are too far to ship

Car in sig.

 

[herm0016]

if you rotate your tires regulary, you do not have this issue.

 

[Raizinman]

I ignore the TPMS as I have a 10$ gauge in the glove box
Another nanny device I didn't ask for

As an accident investigator, most all newer cars have black boxes. These black boxes will record the last 60 seconds or so of the vehicles safety components prior to an accident. What do you think happens if you got into a major accident and the black box showed your tire sensors were inop. It would then be on you to prove your tires were inflated correctly at the time of the accident, which you would not be able to do.

Does not the glarring bothering TPMS light bother you while driving at night? That would bother me more than a nanny.

Likewise, if I was a passenger in a vehicle that had the TPMS shining, I would likely not ride with this person and certainly not allow my kids in that persons car. You obviously have no concern for safety.

Having a $10 tire gauge in the glove box does not help you going 70 MPH and getting a nail in the tire and having your tire starting to run low. This could easily cause a major accident. Your $10 gauge will not help you in this situation, but the TPMS would.