Starting to pick up biking, question about fitment

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NaOH

Diamond Member
Mar 2, 2006
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Originally posted by: FleshLight
Well unless the drive train is fucked, I'd just slap on some wet lube and go out and hit up some dirt to see if trails are for you.

edit:

Just read that the top tube is hitting your dick. The frame is 3 to 5" too big for you.

Yeah, kinda figured that out. That's why I was planning to either just change out the frame and keep all the decent parts, 27speed shimano XTR, shimano deore XT disc brakes, fox 80mm shocks, bontrager everything else. Or just sell it off and start fresh. If I can only sell it for 600 tops like you said....I'm not looking to put in more than 1-200 bucks.
 

Ksyder

Golden Member
Feb 14, 2006
1,829
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I'm not an expert on bike building but the things that come to mind if you switch are:

1. Fork length or possibly headset diameter - this could possibly be a problem, I'm not sure though
2. Brakes - you might want disc brakes in the future and you need to have mounts on the frame and fork to mount the calipers to. Also your hubs must be disc ready so a new wheel set could be in your future if you want disc.
3. Seat post diameter could be different.

These are just off the top of my head, just some things to consider. Could turn into a big project/headache, but maybe not.

edit, sounds like you already have disc. Your components definitely sound like keepers.
 

FleshLight

Diamond Member
Mar 18, 2004
6,883
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Don't forget that you'll need a few specialized tools to remove some of the parts:

Crank puller - needed to remove the crank from the bb
Chain whip - holds the cassette in place
Lockring tool - to remove the cassette
bottom bracket tool - for the bb
Pedal wrench - to remove pedals

Each tool should be less than $10 but they are a bit pricey.
 

LS21

Banned
Nov 27, 2007
3,745
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The frame isnt holding you back. Neither are the components. Either give your bike an overhaul (degrease, clean, lube, tune) and ride it, or sell the the whole thing and get a brand new bike if you just fancy new toys

It is never economical to part out, or craft a new bike from old parts. Bikes are best bought whole.

If you really insist on frankensteining a bike, the best deals are from bikesdirect.com, you could put your components on their frame and sell their componentry set IF you have the patience
 

NaOH

Diamond Member
Mar 2, 2006
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Originally posted by: LS21
The frame isnt holding you back. Neither are the components. Either give your bike an overhaul (degrease, clean, lube, tune) and ride it, or sell the the whole thing and get a brand new bike if you just fancy new toys

It is never economical to part out, or craft a new bike from old parts. Bikes are best bought whole.

If you really insist on frankensteining a bike, the best deals are from bikesdirect.com, you could put your components on their frame and sell their componentry set IF you have the patience

Well the only reason I'm even comtemplating changing the frame is because it's too big for me. Otherwise, I'd be happy to keep this thing exactly the way it is.
 

NaOH

Diamond Member
Mar 2, 2006
5,015
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Originally posted by: FleshLight
Don't forget that you'll need a few specialized tools to remove some of the parts:

Crank puller - needed to remove the crank from the bb
Chain whip - holds the cassette in place
Lockring tool - to remove the cassette
bottom bracket tool - for the bb
Pedal wrench - to remove pedals

Each tool should be less than $10 but they are a bit pricey.

I guess that isn't too bad if they last for a while.
 

Fayd

Diamond Member
Jun 28, 2001
7,970
2
76
www.manwhoring.com
Originally posted by: Ksyder
Originally posted by: NaOH
Originally posted by: Sabot
Get some flats if you're doing city riding, best decision I made bike-wise in a while.

What is that? Just flat footed shoes right?

I'm guessing he means street tires, aka "slicks"

essentially narrower, sometimes inverted tread tires meant to roll fast and efficient on the road. I second this opinion. Riding knobby tires around on the street sucks.

i'm guessing he meant flat pedals, as opposed to the quick release clipless or even clips.

i use clips, and it's not all that bad. but i dont ride city, more suburban areas. and i keep the clips a little bit looser than i really should have them.
 

Fayd

Diamond Member
Jun 28, 2001
7,970
2
76
www.manwhoring.com
i just realized the op's mentioned bike was a mountainbike, with front shocks no less.

i highly suggest not using that for city riding. if you're gonna do city riding, then get a decent hybrid frame with appropriate sized wheels/tires. it'll feel much better than a mountain bike for city riding. far more efficient. (honestly, i hated riding shocks in the city. it takes so much energy.)
 

thedarkwolf

Diamond Member
Oct 13, 1999
9,035
127
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Originally posted by: NaOH
Originally posted by: FleshLight
Well unless the drive train is fucked, I'd just slap on some wet lube and go out and hit up some dirt to see if trails are for you.

edit:

Just read that the top tube is hitting your dick. The frame is 3 to 5" too big for you.

Yeah, kinda figured that out. That's why I was planning to either just change out the frame and keep all the decent parts, 27speed shimano XTR, shimano deore XT disc brakes, fox 80mm shocks, bontrager everything else. Or just sell it off and start fresh. If I can only sell it for 600 tops like you said....I'm not looking to put in more than 1-200 bucks.

I'm no expert but I'd say at best it would be a wash to go new. You would be going from 6 year old highend parts to new low to mid level parts. I'd just buy the sette frame and swap everything over and be done with it. You can then sell the old frame for more than you paid for the sette and be out nothing but some time. Most frames no matter what stickers are on them are made in the same couple of factories over in Taiwan. Once you find out if you like real mtn biking or if you just want to tool around on bike paths and/or the road you can buy a new bike.
 

Dirigible

Diamond Member
Apr 26, 2006
5,961
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Over all, probably cheaper to sell and buy a different one. But it will take effort and time. You might get more by parting out your bike if you do decide to sell. Or get a new bike, swap some of your parts over and sell what was on the bike you buy.

Originally posted by: NaOH
Yeah, kinda figured that out. That's why I was planning to either just change out the frame and keep all the decent parts, 27speed shimano XTR, shimano deore XT disc brakes, fox 80mm shocks, bontrager everything else. Or just sell it off and start fresh. If I can only sell it for 600 tops like you said....I'm not looking to put in more than 1-200 bucks.

Just looked on bikepedia and from your description, I wonder if you have the 2003 or 2004 model, a 2003/2004 model year bike with some parts that don't meet the description below, or something else (like bikepedia being wrong).

2003: http://www.bikepedia.com/quick...k&Model=8500&Type=bike

2004: http://www.bikepedia.com/quick...k&Model=8500&Type=bike

Either way, I didn't realize how nice the 8500 is. It has some sweet high-end parts. Looking at the 2004 especially because it appears to have a better crankset than the 2003, assuming the bike was not used much or taken care of, I would probably want to keep at least some of the parts. It would be hard to find something as nice if you bought/sold. None of the parts from 2004 have been made obsolete by tech advances, although I've got some concerns about the wheels and fork. A few comments on the 2004 parts spec, below.

Frame & Fork
Frame Construction TIG-welded
Frame Tubing Material Aluminum
Fork Brand & Model Fox Float RL, 80mm travel - like buttah. A little prone to leaks, but new seals are cheap. May be short for a newer frame (see bottom of my reply for more)
Fork Material Aluminum/magnesium, single crown
Rear Shock Not applicable

Components
Component Group Mountain Mix
Brakeset Shimano Deore XT M765 hydraulic disc brakes, Shimano Deore XT M756 hydraulic levers - Nice brakes. No direct long-term experience, so I don't know how well they last, or how easy they are to adjust and maintain, but I've tried 'em and know they have good power and level feel when they're in good shape.
Shift Levers Shimano Deore XT RapidFire SL - I like SRAM better, but these are no slouch.
Front Derailleur Shimano Deore XT - Nothing wrong with this, no big tech advances have made this less desirable
Rear Derailleur Shimano Deore XT SGS - The XT 2003/2004 rear der in my mind is as good as what's out today
Crankset Shimano Deore XT, 22/32/44 teeth - if this is the external BB Shimano Hollowtech II, it's the same one I've got on my fancy full suspension Turner Sultan. Very nice.
Pedals Shimano PD-M520 SPD - basic but functional
Bottom Bracket Unspecified
BB Shell Width Unspecified
Rear Cogs 9-speed, 11 - 34 teeth
Chain 1/2 x 3/32"
Seatpost Bontrager Race
Saddle Bontrager FS 2000
Handlebar Bontrager Race Lite
Handlebar Extensions Not included
Handlebar Stem Bontrager Race X Lite
Headset 1 1/8" threadless Aheadset

Wheels - These look like super lightweight racey wheels that won't stand up to all that much abuse. Probably the weak link of the bigger ticket items for everyday use. I will admit to not knowing anything about these specific wheels, but any time you start reducing spoke count below 32 I get nervous.
Hubs Bontrager Race Disc
Rims Bontrager Race Disc, 24-hole/28-hole
Tires 26 x 2.10" Bontrager Super X
Spoke Brand Stainless steel, straight gauge
Spoke Nipples Unspecified

The other Bontrager stuff is meh, but whatever, they should be fine. The fork, crankset, wheels, and brakes are some of the most priciest parts on a bike and are all top notch (with the durability concern of the wheels and the fork issue below in mind).

One big caveat: 80mm travel in that fork is pretty small by today's standards - not many of today's frames will be designed for it. Check the axle to crown length of the fork and the recommended A-C length of any frame you are thinking of getting. This fork may be too short and mess up the intended geometry of a newer frame if you go that route. I don't remember if these Fox forks have an internal spacer that can be removed to switch to 100mm, but I doubt it.
 

NaOH

Diamond Member
Mar 2, 2006
5,015
0
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After taking all your opinions and advice into consideration. I've decided to sell this bike and get one more suitable for my needs . Since I'll be doing more biking on the bike paths around the city, I'll be picking up a road bike. I found a nice trek 1.2 2008 50cm so it should fit me. I'll be checking it out this weekend. Thanks all for your input.
 

Dirigible

Diamond Member
Apr 26, 2006
5,961
32
91
50cm is small. How tall are you? For reference, I'm 5'9" and ride a 56cm. Just bringing it up because I don't want you to get another ill-fitting bike.

Sounds like you made a good decision though. Happy riding!
 

SonnyDaze

Diamond Member
Jul 31, 2004
6,867
3
76
Wrenchscience.com for your fitting needs if you're not going to have your LBS do it.
 

Dirigible

Diamond Member
Apr 26, 2006
5,961
32
91
Originally posted by: SonnyDaze
Wrenchscience.com for your fitting needs if you're not going to have your LBS do it.

Butbutbut... Wrench Science is my local bike shop. :Q

If I'm not going to have my LBS do it I should have Wrench Science do it...

But Wrench Science is my LBS and I'm not going to have them do it...

So I should have Wrench Science do it...

But...

*Head asplodes.