Squealing brakes that don't need replacement?

[CZroe]

I already had my brakes replaced at some point well before 45,000 miles on this car (2011 Toyota Corolla) and they were squealing again shortly after my 65,000 mile service. I expected them to tell me that they needed to be replaced at my 70,000 mile service but they had plenty of meat left according to the service paperwork measurements and they didn't mention it despite being eager to replace them last time.

The squealing continued to get worse so I specifically mentioned it and asked them to check at my 75,000 mile service. Once again, they told me everything was fine. They tried to say that the squeal was probably a bit of rust from recent rains and that it would probably go away. I expressed my doubts due to how long I was hearing it and continued on. The very next passenger in my car said "dude, you need to get your brakes fixed" when he heard it.

I'm coming up on my 80,000 mile service now so it's been doing this for almost 15,000 miles even though they tell me that my brakes don't need to be replaced. Obviously, I'm going to bring it up again, but should I ask them for a brake job even if they insist it isn't needed again? I mean, it's bad enough that even my passengers complain, so how else would I address it? Am I seriously just supposed to ignore this and go on sounding like a school bus at half of my stops (depends on speed/pressure)?

 

[Kelvrick]

Squeeling could be plenty of things. Vibrations in the backing plate or any number of little pieces of metal that isn't part of the pad that actually presses again your rotor. Do you have the mechanical ability to lift the car, take off the wheel and see how your brakes act when someone else presses the pedal?

Or, take it to a shop to get it inspected. A lot of places offer "free inspection." I used a few last time the stealership told my wife she needed new brakes and I was too lazy to check myself. Two in a row said plenty of pad left.

 

[Nashemon]

Mine do the same thing, just when I'm moving slowly, though. Every mechanic I've taken it to I've mentioned the brakes, and they all have said they are in great shape. I've asked about the squealing, and they told me it's a result of not using (Honda) genuine parts. I've yet to take the challenge and replace them with genuine parts to know for sure, though.

 

[CZroe]

Squeeling could be plenty of things. Vibrations in the backing plate or any number of little pieces of metal that isn't part of the pad that actually presses again your rotor. Do you have the mechanical ability to lift the car, take off the wheel and see how your brakes act when someone else presses the pedal?

Unfortunately, I do not. Maybe I could crawl under and blow out dust with an air compressor or something, but even that involved laying in mud (no paved driveway).

Or, take it to a shop to get it inspected. A lot of places offer "free inspection." I used a few last time the stealership told my wife she needed new brakes and I was too lazy to check myself. Two in a row said plenty of pad left.

I'll try this. I'm used to ignoring the radio commercials promoting free inspections, but you just reminded me of a few (I hear them daily). Thanks!

 

[leper84]

Something that may work- go on a empty stretch of road, do a few 55-10 slightly less than panic stops. Don't stop completely and time it to where you can drive for another 5 minutes to let the brakes cool. If they have plenty of thickness, the pads may just need to be heated up enough to cook the top layer off.

 

[master_shake_]

cheap crap brake pads.

we stopped using acdelco pads because of squealing.

 

[tortoise]

how else would I address it

Squeak Relief may be an option. Since the MSDS indicates aluminum . . perhaps burnishing the disc sufaces with a wad of aluminum foil might be worth a try.

 

[Midwayman]

You get it a lot of times if you or the shop forgets to put in the shims that come with the pads back on if your car uses them. A lot of times non-stock pads don't have the shims and people won't pull them off and reuse. Could also be as simple as the little wings on the pads not getting greased. Lot of tiny things that can lead to squeal. Mostly someone doing a half-ass brake job. Generally fixing a squeal is going to mean pulling the pads and making sure they are greased and shimmed properly. That is is they haven't already worn unevenly from being sticky somewhere for too long.

 

[SearchMaster]

I had the same problem on a car I had 20 years ago. It annoyed me enough that I went ahead and paid to have the pads changed since it was just about as cheap as going through a full diagnostic. Now I change my own pads, but the bottom line is that if it bugs you, it is fixable but will cost you some money and possibly some time. This might be a good opportunity to learn to replace them yourself especially if it's the front pads, since they are usually a little easier than the rears. While a bit intimidating ("what if I screw up and ram a minivan full of innocent children???"), it really is a pretty easy job if you allocate yourself sufficient time to get it right.

 

[CZroe]

I had the same problem on a car I had 20 years ago. It annoyed me enough that I went ahead and paid to have the pads changed since it was just about as cheap as going through a full diagnostic. Now I change my own pads, but the bottom line is that if it bugs you, it is fixable but will cost you some money and possibly some time. This might be a good opportunity to learn to replace them yourself especially if it's the front pads, since they are usually a little easier than the rears. While a bit intimidating ("what if I screw up and ram a minivan full of innocent children???"), it really is a pretty easy job if you allocate yourself sufficient time to get it right.

Thanks. I've done it on motorcycles but I don't even have a way under my car. Even if I obtained some ramps I have no workspace.

The last two services were my first out-of-warranty services but I took it to the dealer the second time anyway because the first one was pretty cheap. Even though this last one was not a full service like the time before (no oil change) it cost significantly more, so I'm probably not taking it back to them.

I think it's odd that the dealer would use cheap parts or forget shims or try not to sell me on new brake pads, but it's gotta be one of those things.

 

[SearchMaster]

Thanks. I've done it on motorcycles but I don't even have a way under my car. Even if I obtained some ramps I have no workspace.

The last two services were my first out-of-warranty services but I took it to the dealer the second time anyway because the first one was pretty cheap. Even though this last one was not a full service like the time before (no oil change) it cost significantly more, so I'm probably not taking it back to them.

I think it's odd that the dealer would use cheap parts or forget shims or try not to sell me on new brake pads, but it's gotta be one of those things.

Ramps won't help - you sorta have to remove the tires to get to the brakes A jack and jack stands will work nicely though.

 

[tracerbullet]

Something that may work- go on a empty stretch of road, do a few 55-10 slightly less than panic stops. Don't stop completely and time it to where you can drive for another 5 minutes to let the brakes cool. If they have plenty of thickness, the pads may just need to be heated up enough to cook the top layer off.

Agreed. Has worked for me in the past when I stupidly put too agressive a pad on my truck. Also, it's free to try.

 

[Torn Mind]

Brake lubricant should be applied to certain points to eliminate squealing. The two tips and maybe where the caliper comes into contact in the middle of the pads need brake lube for the Corolla

Changing out the hardware(shims and/or retainer clips) might fix the problem.
Or, it's the friction material itself.

Typically, OEM Toyota brakes are made by Akebono. My guess is their ACT line is the OEM equivalent of a Toyota branded brakes. Now, I haven't personally ordered the ACDelco Professional Durastop line of brakes, but there is a high chance that it is a Toyota/Akebono rebadge for the Corolla since the ACDelco Professional air filter I installed on my mom's 2007 Matrix has Denso and a Denso part number right on it. Given the joint venture between GM and Toyota for the Matrix and Vibe, which are a Corolla hatchbacks, the ACDelco Professional line will land you OEM Toyota brakes as well.

 

[eng2d2]

You could always get the small packet of grease at auto store that you apply to brakes and suppose to keep it quiet. The grease is only for brakes.

 

[hey there]

Copper grease on the back of the pad, between the pad/shim/caliper piston.
Also some makes are just gonna squeal no matter what.

 

[Gardener]

Unfortunately, I do not. Maybe I could crawl under and blow out dust with an air compressor or something, but even that involved laying in mud (no paved driveway).

Sounds like you have at least one brake pad that is glazed, since this happens when you apply the brakes.

 

[marvdmartian]

Had a brake job done, once, where they told me (AFTER I brought the vehicle back, complaining) that the squeal was because the caliper piston couldn't be compressed completely back in, because of a thin line of rust on the piston. They put some sort of stuff on the rotors, and it quieted down, and eventually, with normal wear, it stopped doing it (I only heard it at slow speeds, and only if I was close enough to a sound reflecting surface to bounce the squealing sound back into my window, so I could hear it).

After 15K miles, though, I think I'd have someone else check it, if for no other reason than peace of mind.

 

[bryanl]

( Maybe I could crawl under and blow out dust with an air compressor or something, but even that involved laying in mud (no paved driveway).

It won't remove enough dust. Instead spray a strong stream of water on the pads, from all sides. If you instead use brake parts cleaner, be careful to not get it on paint. If cleaning stops the squealing, even temporarily, it indicates the shims behind the pads need a thin layer of grease on them (or Permatex Disk Brake Quiet spray) and the pads have to be lightly greased where their metal parts contact the caliper. Do not let grease or Disc Brake Quiet touch the friction material of the pads or the rotors.