spring compressors

[neocpp]

I'm thinking about changing the struts (and de-ricing) my 01 Integra, and I have to take off the coil springs. However, I'm concerned about using spring compressors -- so much stored energy! Anyone have any tips for doing this safely?

I suppose taking it to the shop would work, but I'm trying to learn how to do things on my car. If someone has done this at a shop, what did they charge you for it? The place I go to usually does little things for free -- mostly loosening stuck parts like lug nuts -- but I'm guessing this involves substantially more effort.

If any 3rd gen integra owners have replaced struts before, which ones have you used? I'm looking at the KYB GR-2 / Excel-G; they're supposed to be pretty close to OEM (which I can't really find new), and I just want to return the ride to stock.

 

[JCH13]

I'm thinking about changing the struts (and de-ricing) my 01 Integra, and I have to take off the coil springs. However, I'm concerned about using spring compressors -- so much stored energy! Anyone have any tips for doing this safely?

I suppose taking it to the shop would work, but I'm trying to learn how to do things on my car. If someone has done this at a shop, what did they charge you for it? The place I go to usually does little things for free -- mostly loosening stuck parts like lug nuts -- but I'm guessing this involves substantially more effort.

If any 3rd gen integra owners have replaced struts before, which ones have you used? I'm looking at the KYB GR-2 / Excel-G; they're supposed to be pretty close to OEM (which I can't really find new), and I just want to return the ride to stock.

Spring compressors are fairly straight-forward to use safely. Just use common sense!

Couple common modes of failure are: stripping out the drive threads and having the spring compressor slip off the spring.

The first is easy to prevent. Keep the compressor threads lubed up all the time. I use Boeshield on mine. Boeshield a lube/rust protector that drys into a wax, so it doesn't pick up dirt/sand/junk to mess up the threads.

I use ratchets or an air ratchet to crank down the compressor. You don't want to use an impact gun or other high-speed driver. This will heat up the drive threads/nut and increase the likelihood of galling/damaging the drive threads and having them strip out. I've also heard of impact guns causing the compressor to get knocked off the spring.

To keep the compressor from slipping off I have these spring compressors with pins that keep them latched onto the spring, like these ones.

I would not use spring compressors without any sort of safety mechanisms, like these. Big no-no IMO.

Be careful to not compress one side of the spring a lot more than the other, draw both sides down a similar amount. DO NOT crank one side down a ton. DO keep the spring relatively straight. DO attach the compressors directly opposed to each other, symmetrical to the spring.

I always keep myself, and anything I care about, away from the 'death axis' of spring/strut/etc. when working on them, just in case. If something were to let go you really don't want to be in the path of anything heavy.

I'm sure there's a lot more to know about using spring compressors safely. Hopefully other members chime in, also be sure to carefully read the instructions that come with whatever compressors you wind up getting. I'm sure not every spring compressors works quite the same way.

About your shock selection... they might give a ride similar to stock, but they won't last too long. The KYB GR2 and similar are budget low-end shocks. You might be a lot happier with a Koni Sport or Bilstein shock. Properly controlling the spring/suspension makes a tremendous difference. You'd have to spend $50 more per shock, but for the labor and hassle of replacing them it's probably worth it. I bet Bilstein HDs would be the last shocks you put on the car if you went that way. Either way, give it a bit of research. Shocks are not something you'll want to cheap out on IMO.

 

[exdeath]

Use high quality ones and not cheap shitty die cast Chinese ones that gall or bend...

Personally I prefer the heavy duty claw or clamshell style ones where you just crank down on one bolt to tighten it.

 

[NutBucket]

Could also got for Tokico Blues. I think they might be slightly better than KYB but really I would consider both OEM replacements. Why the KYB hate JCH? They OEM tons of shocks for Japanese cars.

 

[JCH13]

Could also got for Tokico Blues. I think they might be slightly better than KYB but really I would consider both OEM replacements. Why the KYB hate JCH? They OEM tons of shocks for Japanese cars.

They work fine, for a time. I just don't think they have good durability, especially the less-expensive ones, and they certainly aren't the best shocks. I dorked around with a number of less-expensive shock options on my Miata. I finally shelled out for Tokico Illuminas (edit: I haven't heard anything good about the Blues) for my Miata, and Koni FSD shocks for my MS3, and it really opened my eyes to how much better a great shock is compared to low-cost OEM replacements.

Both of my cars now ride better than new, and handle better than new.

For OP it's the difference between $230 and $430 to go from KYB GR2 shocks to Bilstein HDs. The KYBs might only be good for 30k miles. The Bilstein HDs will probably be good for 100k miles, can be re-valved and rebuilt, and will actually have some resale value in the future.

 

[Slacker]

When I was 18 I used coat hangers wrapped around the coils to change ball joints on my chevelle

I jacked up the car by the control arm and wrapped 3 hangers around the coils and went to work chiseling out the old joints.

I had no idea how dangerous this was.


Also, consider quick struts.

 

[neocpp]

Spring compressors are fairly straight-forward to use safely. Just use common sense!

Couple common modes of failure are: stripping out the drive threads and having the spring compressor slip off the spring.

The first is easy to prevent. Keep the compressor threads lubed up all the time. I use Boeshield on mine. Boeshield a lube/rust protector that drys into a wax, so it doesn't pick up dirt/sand/junk to mess up the threads.

I use ratchets or an air ratchet to crank down the compressor. You don't want to use an impact gun or other high-speed driver. This will heat up the drive threads/nut and increase the likelihood of galling/damaging the drive threads and having them strip out. I've also heard of impact guns causing the compressor to get knocked off the spring.

To keep the compressor from slipping off I have these spring compressors with pins that keep them latched onto the spring, like these ones.

I would not use spring compressors without any sort of safety mechanisms, like these. Big no-no IMO.

Be careful to not compress one side of the spring a lot more than the other, draw both sides down a similar amount. DO NOT crank one side down a ton. DO keep the spring relatively straight. DO attach the compressors directly opposed to each other, symmetrical to the spring.

I always keep myself, and anything I care about, away from the 'death axis' of spring/strut/etc. when working on them, just in case. If something were to let go you really don't want to be in the path of anything heavy.

I'm sure there's a lot more to know about using spring compressors safely. Hopefully other members chime in, also be sure to carefully read the instructions that come with whatever compressors you wind up getting. I'm sure not every spring compressors works quite the same way.

About your shock selection... they might give a ride similar to stock, but they won't last too long. The KYB GR2 and similar are budget low-end shocks. You might be a lot happier with a Koni Sport or Bilstein shock. Properly controlling the spring/suspension makes a tremendous difference. You'd have to spend $50 more per shock, but for the labor and hassle of replacing them it's probably worth it. I bet Bilstein HDs would be the last shocks you put on the car if you went that way. Either way, give it a bit of research. Shocks are not something you'll want to cheap out on IMO.

Thank you JCH13, I'll look for the safer type of spring compressor. I didn't know the GR2's weren't that durable; the only reason I selected them was because reviews over at the integra forums say the ride is very close to stock and can use the OEM springs. If I go with the Bilstein HDs, do I need different springs as well? To be honest, 30k might be enough (I only drive ~4-5k per year currently), but when my driving habits change it would be nice to have something that lasts if I don't sell the car before then.

Where can you find the heavy duty ones? I've only seen the smaller type with 2 threaded rods for rent at autozone/advance auto parts.

I've thought about quick struts, but looking up reviews for them in general say that the ride quality deteriorates after a short amount of time, if it was there in the first place. I would hate to replace the struts, then find out I don't like it and have to do it again.

Do you have general advice on choosing suspension parts? I chose close to OEM because I figured that the original ride quality was probably pretty decent, and getting like-OEM parts should get me back there. Right now the ride is extremely stiff -- the car is lowered and the shocks don't seem to damp anything. On Boston roads, the car bounces like crazy. Weird thing is, the PO redid the suspension less than a year before I bought it, and I've only had it for a year, which makes me think the suspension is actually doing what it was designed to do but is just not comfortable. If I choose something different, I want to avoid this situation.

 

[JCH13]

Thank you JCH13, I'll look for the safer type of spring compressor. I didn't know the GR2's weren't that durable; the only reason I selected them was because reviews over at the integra forums say the ride is very close to stock and can use the OEM springs. If I go with the Bilstein HDs, do I need different springs as well? To be honest, 30k might be enough (I only drive ~4-5k per year currently), but when my driving habits change it would be nice to have something that lasts if I don't sell the car before then.

Where can you find the heavy duty ones? I've only seen the smaller type with 2 threaded rods for rent at autozone/advance auto parts.

I've thought about quick struts, but looking up reviews for them in general say that the ride quality deteriorates after a short amount of time, if it was there in the first place. I would hate to replace the struts, then find out I don't like it and have to do it again.

Do you have general advice on choosing suspension parts? I chose close to OEM because I figured that the original ride quality was probably pretty decent, and getting like-OEM parts should get me back there. Right now the ride is extremely stiff -- the car is lowered and the shocks don't seem to damp anything. On Boston roads, the car bounces like crazy. Weird thing is, the PO redid the suspension less than a year before I bought it, and I've only had it for a year, which makes me think the suspension is actually doing what it was designed to do but is just not comfortable. If I choose something different, I want to avoid this situation.

I don't know if you'd need springs different from stock or not going with Bilsteins. I would suspect not, but they would probably do better with a siffer spring than stock. I am extrapolating what I know from the Miata world here.

Amazon has pretty much any spring compressor style you'd ever want.

Dropping cars too far totally screws up their roll center and roll stiffness, so the car rolls more in turns. I also notice a lot of lowering springs do not have a high enough spring rate to keep you off your bump stops, and many lowering spring installs have instructions to remove/cut your bump stops. The hard impact of the suspension on a bumpstop is a big reason why lowered cars feel bouncy and ride like shit. It's a little counterintuitive, but stiffer springs, stiffer shocks, and larger bump stops (with a smooth ramp-up of force) can result in a more comfortable ride because the suspension is controlled properly and the car rarely, if ever, impacts its bump stops.

What springs/shocks/bump stops are you using right now? We might be able to figure out why your ride sucks now and what you can do to make it suck less, hopefully without replacing everything.

Make sense?

As for suspension components, I do a lot of research and balance my wants with my budget. I generally stick with OEM/MOOG for bearings and such. Shocks/springs are so prolific and varied that there is rarely a need to stay with OEM. There is likely a combination that's more aligned with my particular needs/wants for a car in the aftermarket. That's where the research comes in.

Keep in mind that many aftermarket options for your car are OE on other cars. For example, the Koni FSD is OE on a Lamborghini Gallardo, but I can also get it for my MS3. I figure if it's good enough for a super car, it's good enough for my hot hatch :awe:

 

[Midwayman]

Autozone will rent you a spring compressor for free.

 

[FuzzyDunlop]

agreed these are baad, very baaad

 

[AMCRambler]

Sears sells a set with the pins for like 60 - 70 bucks. Almost bought them but I don't do enough suspension work to justify it. Usually just borrow a set from Autozone.

 

[TridenT]

I'd take it to a shop. Some have equipment that is specifically made for this job and is a lot safer than the tools above.

Just take the struts out of the car yourself. Bring in the new struts with the old. Tell them you want to have them put the old spring on the new strut.

It should take them less than an hour for both and you can reinstall the struts yourself.

Here's why I won't ever bother with springs/struts myself: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ce5c6eUPW4s

 

[T2urtle]

Ive used these and they aren't the best. I while i was compressing the spring the threaded lower part in the picture was rubbing against spring itself.

That spring looks like its for a rear. A front spring i had only had maybe 4-5 coil wrap, so it would also hit the strut mount as well.

The safety feature is great, had no issues but the design is an issue. If those hook were further away it MIGHT WORK.

I rented the "OEM" Brand from autozone for free. I would not buy these myself but i haven't found a better set short of a PRO wall mounted setup.

 

[JCH13]

I'd take it to a shop. Some have equipment that is specifically made for this job and is a lot safer than the tools above.

Just take the struts out of the car yourself. Bring in the new struts with the old. Tell them you want to have them put the old spring on the new strut.

It should take them less than an hour for both and you can reinstall the struts yourself.

Here's why I won't ever bother with springs/struts myself: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ce5c6eUPW4s

Note that 'Eric the Car Guy' did a number of things wrong in that video that I already suggest not to do, as well as some things that I'll point out now.

-He hit bolts out, from the threaded end, with a bare hammer. That is a great way to mash over the thread and ruin anything it threads into later. If you must do this, use a drift made from a soft material. I have a copper and brass drift for just this. Never ruined a thread using them.

-He uses spring compressors without any sort of safety latch, at all (something I pointed out earlier). If the compressors had safety latches they wouldn't have been ejected from the spring. The spring would have just failed in place.

-He mounts one of the compressors off at a crazy angle. This is a TERRIBLE idea. This puts the threaded rod in bending, which is one of the biggest faux pas in the mechanical engineering world. It also puts a lot of lateral loading on the nut, increasing the likelihood of galling and thread damage to the compressor. He acknowledges that this is a bad idea, but he does it anyway. What a tool-sack.

-He uses an impact drive to turn the spring compressors. This seems to have caused the spring compressor to pop off in the first place. Again, something else I pointed out earlier.

-He repeatedly puts his hand/arm across the 'axis of death'. If that spring had failed when he was reaching across the spring, the video might have ended in an ER trip. Another thing I pointed out earlier.

-He tightens up the suspension bolt without load on the suspension. This will cause the bushing to fail prematurely. He even acknowledges that this is bad practice and does it anyway. Again, what a tool-sack.

-He does not use a toque wrench to torque down suspension components. Huge no-no. This is one of the few points where a torque wrench is pretty much mandatory. If that bolt isn't tight enough, or is too tight, that suspension corner can fail and, literally, fall off.

I used to think that Eric the Car Guy put out some good videos... but after watching this my trust in his skill/attitude is about nil. There are at least two points in the video where he says 'this is a bad idea, but I do it anyway [because I'm lazy and can't be bothered to do this right]' including when the compressors fail.

No one is saying that operating a spring compressor is an inherently safe activity. However, if you take basic, common-sense precautions and use good equipment, you will have the situation under control and won't be at any great risk.

You wouldn't drive a car with shitty brakes and tires, disobey every traffic law, and not wear a seatbelt would you? Of course not. Then why would you ignore safety precautions and use shoddy equipment when working on a car?

 

[JCH13]

Ive used these and they aren't the best. I while i was compressing the spring the threaded lower part in the picture was rubbing against spring itself.

That spring looks like its for a rear. A front spring i had only had maybe 4-5 coil wrap, so it would also hit the strut mount as well.

The safety feature is great, had no issues but the design is an issue. If those hook were further away it MIGHT WORK.

I rented the "OEM" Brand from autozone for free. I would not buy these myself but i haven't found a better set short of a PRO wall mounted setup.

*shrug* I've never had the problem you described using them on either my Miata or MS3, and my Miata, nor any friends' cars I've used them on. I suppose it could be an issue if your spring has big changes in OD though.

If that's the case, the claw-type that exdeath suggested would work well.

Safety pins, one drive to worry about, and the spring is automatically compressed uniformly. If I hadn't gotten the compressors I have for free, I'd be looking at one of these or something similar.