I'm planning on spray painting my two optical drives to match my case (silver). I already know that the spray works on plastic because I tested it on a piece I don't need anymore. I'm just wondering what precautions I need to take to insure my drives don't get damaged. Any advice from experienced case modders would be highly appreciated. Thanks.
spray painting optical drives safely?
- Thread starter nikko
- Start date
You've removed the bezels from the drive right? DO NOT SPRAY PAINT THE BEZELS WHILE ATTACHED TO THE DRIVES. You risk damaging the loading mechanism and the laser, and might have problems with the paint sealing openings. Also, mask any parts (led light, logos, volume controls, mic jacks) you don't want painted. You can always touch them up later with a paint marker or fine brush.
Chiz
the plastic on the front of the drives...
you can take them off, and therefor when you take them off (both the drive and tray) it'll make for easy painting...
you can take them off, and therefor when you take them off (both the drive and tray) it'll make for easy painting...
Exactly. You should be able to pop them off using any smaller flat-head screw driver. Most bezels are attached using 4 clips (and possibly a screw or two) on each side of the drive. Gently pop them out one by one and work the bezel off the drive. The tray bezel is slightly different, but once you look at it, you shouldn't have a problem using similar methods. Since you will want to be doing this with no power to the drives, get a paperclip to open the tray while it has no power. Stick the paperclip in the little hole on the drive to eject the tray.
Chiz
The key to most any finished product is the prep...Do as the others state and use denatured alcohol to take all the grease off then a primer/sealer on the faceplates, then after a coat or 2 if you want it to gloss use some clear...after which 1200+ wet sand paper and then rubbing compound...finish it with some butter wax then reasemble 
One guy had success using black Rit dye overnight.
Another had success with vinyl dye rubbed on.
I would think enamel like Krylon would work. Use auto primer first.
Laquer might work too, dries fast, hard. might be more prone to chipping.
Mac
Another had success with vinyl dye rubbed on.
I would think enamel like Krylon would work. Use auto primer first.
Laquer might work too, dries fast, hard. might be more prone to chipping.
Mac
Yeah, I got some Krylon Sterling Silver finish. Do I really need to do any other layers? The test piece I did looks fine to me. What additional advantage would there be to using a primer (or whatever it is you guys recommend I use)?
- Mar 4, 2000
- 27,370
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I have done two Pioneer DVD slot drives. The faceplates (AKA "bezels") do come off. I sprayed them with plastic model paint - no great prepping needed. The results were excellent. To make them even fancier, I trimmed the slot beveled edge in bright red as well as the eject button. The face plates were silver-aluminum model paint. I also did my floppy and LS-120 drives for two systems. The results were very satisfactory.
For small things I don't use spray - I use a small camel's hair brush and the little bottles of model paint - Pactra or Testors. They come in zillions of colors. It is also a lot of fun. I painted my powerbox black with a silver faceplates and colored switches - also my USB and Firewire hubs. My new monitors were already silver and black - it all goes together rather nicely.
For small things I don't use spray - I use a small camel's hair brush and the little bottles of model paint - Pactra or Testors. They come in zillions of colors. It is also a lot of fun. I painted my powerbox black with a silver faceplates and colored switches - also my USB and Firewire hubs. My new monitors were already silver and black - it all goes together rather nicely.
Primer adds an intermediate layer. It's formulated to bond to the substrate and then is porous to absorb the paint.
If you don't use it you may be prone to chipping later. Prep is even more important. A little sanding with very fine paper. like 320 or greater willi help. More than that is a clean surface. Soap and water first, then paint thinner (not laquer thineer as that will melt the plastic). Alcohol will do.
Make sure your hands have no oil or grease on them. Paint won't stick to oil or grease or silicones. Bezel must be dry too. no water on it.
Place it on newspaper and spray it from 12-14 inches. One light coat. Let dry for a few minutes then another coat. 3rd is optional. Never lay it on real thick. Coats are better. Runs and you have to start all over.
If you don't use it you may be prone to chipping later. Prep is even more important. A little sanding with very fine paper. like 320 or greater willi help. More than that is a clean surface. Soap and water first, then paint thinner (not laquer thineer as that will melt the plastic). Alcohol will do.
Make sure your hands have no oil or grease on them. Paint won't stick to oil or grease or silicones. Bezel must be dry too. no water on it.
Place it on newspaper and spray it from 12-14 inches. One light coat. Let dry for a few minutes then another coat. 3rd is optional. Never lay it on real thick. Coats are better. Runs and you have to start all over.
IMO primer and sanding as macro2 described is the way to go. A little more prep time up front results in a much nicer finished product.
Chiz
Chiz
RE:"Hey Macro2...I see you know your stuff...where you from and RU employable?"
Thanks, I'm in Florida.
I confess, In my younger days I worked in an auto body shop.
I'm employable but not for full time painting. <G>
Mac
Thanks, I'm in Florida.
I confess, In my younger days I worked in an auto body shop.
I'm employable but not for full time painting. <G>
Mac
I just read this guide on how to paint your drives
.The hands on experience though is a definite bonus. I had to do it twice to get the desired result, but I'm still looking into modding my Lian-Li drive bays as the paint still isn't an exact match (brushed aluminum).
I've seen a few sites with chrome-plated drives! Looks awesome, but I'm sure the plating is hella expensive.
Chiz
basically, take everything you want to paint, and GET IT AS FAR AWAY FROM EVERYTHING ELSE that you dont want to paint. you dont even want ONE molecule of paint to land on the lens or gunk up the drive system.
ok, I have more questions...
1. what kind of primer do I need to use? is the kind I have left over from painting my pine furniture acceptable?
2. how can i safely paint my monitor?
3. is there somewhere that sells clear plastic bezels?
4. has anyone here used those sound-activated neon case lights? how do you like them? what sound "activates" them? music? games? any sound at all?
1. what kind of primer do I need to use? is the kind I have left over from painting my pine furniture acceptable?
2. how can i safely paint my monitor?
3. is there somewhere that sells clear plastic bezels?
4. has anyone here used those sound-activated neon case lights? how do you like them? what sound "activates" them? music? games? any sound at all?
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